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  #121  
Old 01-11-2018, 11:57 AM
enerj enerj is offline
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Here were my steps:
  1. "Bench Bleed" BMC on vehicle
    Quick video here
    I did this because the system has been dry for months. The gurgling sound was a little weird. After this I removed the black hose and installed the brake lines as fast as possible, torqued fittings without any bleeding at the conenction.
  2. Fluid fill through lines
    In order of bleeding calipers (rear driver, rear pass, front pass, front driver) I cracked each bleeder loose and slowly pumped the brake pedal to fill the lines. A hose & bottle was hooked to the bleeder with enough fluid in the bottle to prevent air re-entry. In retrospect I don't know if this was correct.
  3. Regular 4 corner bleed
    In the same order as above I bled the calipers - catch bottle hose attached to bleeder, friend pumped 3 times and held, I opened for a few seconds then shut. Friend releases pedal and repeats. I did get it to the point where no air was coming out.

I may grab some hardlines from the auto store to make better BMC bench bleeders. I'm not sure what else to do other than repeat this. I may need to prime that valve I showed a few posts ago but I'm not certain, FSM seems to avoid talking about prop valves.
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  #122  
Old 01-12-2018, 10:08 PM
gills gills is offline
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I'd start with DTC-70's since you don't really know what piston size caiiper you have in front. The helical diff already makes the car eager on turn in also. You can get away with more rear bias with a 1.5 or 2 way.

Just bleed the crap out of the system. If you continue to have a soft pedal, your BMC might need to be rebuilt. If it was left dry for too long and exposed, you may have scored the bore.

I've taken out that prop valve to pull shims (old car) and put it back in without rebleeding without getting a soft pedal. Although, that's the spring style prop valve. YMMV
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  #123  
Old 01-13-2018, 03:11 AM
enerj enerj is offline
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I bazooka'd it the other night - primed the valve unit, properly submerged the bench bleed lines and rebled each corner. Pedal was still almost non existent then I adjusted the pedal pushrod at the pedal jam not. They engage!

It's 2am here and I just finished my check out drive, I think it's feeling good. Car hasn't been out in a while so I'm just gonna have fun with it at the track. Thanks all for the help.

PS - I feel like I may have seen a flash or two by the window after braking, maybe a spark. Is any of that normal? Brand new dtc-60s front 30s rear.
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  #124  
Old 01-13-2018, 08:56 AM
e1_griego e1_griego is online now
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Yeah dtc60s shoot sparks in the dark.
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  #125  
Old Yesterday, 12:10 PM
gills gills is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enerj View Post
I bazooka'd it the other night - primed the valve unit, properly submerged the bench bleed lines and rebled each corner. Pedal was still almost non existent then I adjusted the pedal pushrod at the pedal jam not. They engage!

It's 2am here and I just finished my check out drive, I think it's feeling good. Car hasn't been out in a while so I'm just gonna have fun with it at the track. Thanks all for the help.

PS - I feel like I may have seen a flash or two by the window after braking, maybe a spark. Is any of that normal? Brand new dtc-60s front 30s rear.

How'd it go?

And I thought you already had DTC-60's for the rear Z32's? Which I realize now, I didn't think they make because I wanted to try DTC-60 front and rear before and couldn't find them at the time. I ended up going HT-10 in the rear then.
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