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Old 08-08-2011, 02:40 AM
cozzmo cozzmo is offline
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Default N15 Pulsar SSS / B14 SE-R Bilsteins

Hi all,

I've got an Australian N15 Pulsar SSS which is the equivalent (chassis & drivetrain wise) to the B14 SE-R. Its got a few mods with the motor and gearbox and a few suspension bits, but its pretty much a daily now, i just like playing around with different suspension.

Just got my bilsteins and i'm wondering a couple of things.

Front, got the 3000GT inserts, probably a bit firm for this car, but like usual, i'm just going to give it a shot, see how it goes.

I have a set of Ohlins struts which had some Koni Reds in them, pulled the reds out and low and behold, the Bilstein damper (without the yellow body) slides straight in. The Linear bushings inside the Ohlins body are worn (i can feel a little play) so i'm looking to replace them, maybe even swap out the linear bushing from the Bilstein insert body if i can figure out how to pull them out without damage (which doesn't look easy...)

I tried to undo the rod from the cap at the bottom of the insert, but ended up the cap just started to turn. Are they locked in with some thread lock or are they just REALLY tight? I don't want to mess up the allen key hex so i figured i'd ask what you guys have done to pull the damper out of the insert body.

I'm going to get a pin wrench so i can hold the cap tight, but i don't really want to mess it all up.
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Old 08-11-2011, 04:36 AM
cozzmo cozzmo is offline
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Rears are in ... nice and smooth.






Received my Pin Wrench, still can't get the damper rod to unscrew from the cap in the front inserts. Must be thread locked in there.. most annoying. I don't want to mess up the allen key bit.
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Old 08-11-2011, 01:43 PM
djsilver djsilver is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cozzmo View Post
Rears are in ... nice and smooth.






Received my Pin Wrench, still can't get the damper rod to unscrew from the cap in the front inserts. Must be thread locked in there.. most annoying. I don't want to mess up the allen key bit.
The rod threads have loctite on them. I had to double nut the threads and use a flat wrench and an allen wrench together to get it unscrewed. Have faith, you can do it!

When I installed the 3kgt inserts into my Buddy Club housings the insert was only supported by one of the two sliders because the Bilstein rod was longer. I had to drive in an extra bushing so the shock was supported at full droop.

Here's a source for new slider bushings; http://catalog.daemar.com/category/t...ngs-lead-free-

These guys are in Canada and the US. If you can't source through them you may find another source by searching for slide/slider bushings or bearings.

Last edited by djsilver; 08-11-2011 at 08:46 PM.. Reason: speeling
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Old 08-11-2011, 01:53 PM
djsilver djsilver is online now
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http://s982.photobucket.com/albums/a...S13/?start=all

One of the pictures is a drawing with measurements of the 3kgt struts/inserts
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Old 08-12-2011, 01:09 AM
cozzmo cozzmo is offline
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Thanks for the links.

Interestingly, my AST struts use their (or similar product) THX series slider bushings.

Unfortunately my 3KGT seems to have an M10x1.0 not 1.25 thread on it so i have to head to the local shop to get some nuts, but i'll give that way a go. Cheers.

My plans are to remove the damper and put it into a set of Ohlins inverted Strut bodies which just happen to be the right ID. I got the Ohlins cheap, but they had blown up at some point (given the shock oil that came out when i removed the reds) and the previous owner had thrown a set of Koni Reds into them, which fit very poorly (no support at all!) and the bushings are worn so that's why i would need to replace them first. I haven't had a chance to measure the internal diameter of the Ohlins yet to know what size bushing exactly i will need, but i don't think i'd be lucky enough to be able to fit the bilstein sliders into the ohlins, and i can imagine trying to get them out without damaging them would be a pretty big task.

All helpful info though, thanks very much.

(thinking i should have stuck with Koni Yellows in Maxima Bodies up front... lol)
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Old 08-12-2011, 07:27 PM
cozzmo cozzmo is offline
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Double nut + allen key = winner. Got the damper out. Slides perfectly into the Ohlins, but there is play (even when supported by both sliders which i couldn't slide in far enough before) so i'll definitely have to sort something out there with new bushings, and the hole at the bottom of the Ohlins strut housing is too big, but a thick washer on the end of the bilstein rod should work out good as the strut is pretty short.

Springs will be the next challenge, i've been using coilovers for so long that i'd hate to get a set of springs (especially with this mismatched setup) and find out the car is far too high or not high enough.

Ohlins struts have a "flare" at the end of the tube for their integrated seal so i might have to cut the top off the strut body and get a set of GC Sleeves. anyways i'll update again when i have something cobbled together.
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Old 08-12-2011, 09:15 PM
djsilver djsilver is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cozzmo View Post
Double nut + allen key = winner. Got the damper out. Slides perfectly into the Ohlins, but there is play (even when supported by both sliders which i couldn't slide in far enough before) so i'll definitely have to sort something out there with new bushings, and the hole at the bottom of the Ohlins strut housing is too big, but a thick washer on the end of the bilstein rod should work out good as the strut is pretty short.

Springs will be the next challenge, i've been using coilovers for so long that i'd hate to get a set of springs (especially with this mismatched setup) and find out the car is far too high or not high enough.

Ohlins struts have a "flare" at the end of the tube for their integrated seal so i might have to cut the top off the strut body and get a set of GC Sleeves. anyways i'll update again when i have something cobbled together.
The hole in the Buddy Club housing was too large as well. I put a taper on the inner lock nut to center the shaft in the hole. Otherwise you may be able to find a sleeve to fill the space as well.

I'm not picturing the Ohlins thing. Can you post a picture?
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Old 08-13-2011, 01:14 AM
cozzmo cozzmo is offline
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Definintely a good idea to have something to centre the shaft, i didn't even think of that, thanks. Might get a washer/spacer type thing machined up that will centre the shaft and support it.

Picture of the Ohlins strut body with the Bilstein Damper inserted and compared with a factory strut.



That's with about 8mm worth of nut/spacer holding the damper rod at the bottom so the new setup will be a little shorter.

As you can see, the Ohlins strut body has got a "flare" at the top for their integrated wiper seal, this will stop me from being able to use a ground control sleeve kit on it (as mentioned before).

I could cut it off as the bushing is located at the thinner part of the body. I'm hoping i can just find a set of 'normal' springs that are the height i want (without going through multiple sets) rather than getting a set of sleeves and springs, but if the only way to garentee my correct ride height is to get sleeves, i might just have to do it.


EDIT: I wonder how i'm going to pull out the old slider bushings, that could be fun ! Plus the old grease has all dried up inside, i cleaned them out as best i could, but its all gunked up, going to be a fun job!

Last edited by cozzmo; 08-13-2011 at 01:22 AM..
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Old 08-13-2011, 07:03 AM
djsilver djsilver is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cozzmo View Post
Definintely a good idea to have something to centre the shaft, i didn't even think of that, thanks. Might get a washer/spacer type thing machined up that will centre the shaft and support it.

Picture of the Ohlins strut body with the Bilstein Damper inserted and compared with a factory strut.

That's with about 8mm worth of nut/spacer holding the damper rod at the bottom so the new setup will be a little shorter.

As you can see, the Ohlins strut body has got a "flare" at the top for their integrated wiper seal, this will stop me from being able to use a ground control sleeve kit on it (as mentioned before).

I could cut it off as the bushing is located at the thinner part of the body. I'm hoping i can just find a set of 'normal' springs that are the height i want (without going through multiple sets) rather than getting a set of sleeves and springs, but if the only way to garentee my correct ride height is to get sleeves, i might just have to do it.


EDIT: I wonder how i'm going to pull out the old slider bushings, that could be fun ! Plus the old grease has all dried up inside, i cleaned them out as best i could, but its all gunked up, going to be a fun job!
I see what you mean about the flare now. The 3kgt shock comes with a "seal" that's included for putting on top of the old housing after cutting out the original. Could you cut off the flare, slide on the sleeves then install the Bilstein seals above them? It's the silver thing in this picture; http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/1175/sdc10546y.jpg

As to removing the old seals; There's a fairly standard tool called a "blind bearing puller" that's good for that. http://toolsandmore.us/ProductImages/oem/27059.jpg

For re-installation you'll need a socket/pipe/round bar slightly smaller than the ID of the tube to knock the new ones in. My recollection is that the small end of the Bilstein housing was perfect for the job.

Last edited by djsilver; 08-13-2011 at 07:13 AM..
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  #10  
Old 08-13-2011, 03:24 PM
cozzmo cozzmo is offline
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Yeh i got the seal with the 3KGT's, but the OD of the tube is too small (50mm) for the ID of the seal which was like 53mm i beleive, i'll need to double check it though. I'm sure i could come up with something, just trying to make use of what i've got i guess.

Thanks once again, blind bearing puller, hadn't heard of it before, but even the cheap eBay tools are expensive, and one that can do a 40mm ID part is crazy expensive (for a one off job). Might visit a local mechanic and see if i can find one that has it.

I found that the recommended way to insert the bushing was to use a mandrel to hold the bush so it didn't deform and so that no 'point loads' were put on the edge which could cause peening. Another hurdle, but i'm sure i'll get past it!

Cheers.
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