Aluminum Rods

[Beejis60]

Originally Posted by PerilousActs

I believe Ti rods are in the $2kish range for a 4 cylinder from when I was looking the other day. Most places that do AL do titanium from what I've seen. There's a lot of info on both on evolutionm actually. I was pretty surprised, but there's a lot of big budget evo builds so I guess it makes perfect sense.

Ya, I saw a build from, I think Greece a few yrs ago; these dudes had their own billet block they machined, beryllium-laced pistons, and their own billet head that didn't require a gasket (I think?), running like 55+ lbs of boost, IIRC. Anyway, back to Ti rods, damn, that's more expensive than I thought they were... guess Al rods are good enough diploma for me.

[Def]

Yea, pure beryllium pistons and MMC rods that were beyond baller. That engine probably had $20k in just materials alone. Pretty impressive stuff. But I can think of a better engine to spend it on than a 4G63 at that point! I think I would just drop a Judd V8 into something for that sort of coin like this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZsGTBWmN41s

[Beejis60]

Originally Posted by Def

Yea, pure beryllium pistons and MMC rods that were beyond baller. That engine probably had $20k in just materials alone. Pretty impressive stuff.

I believe these are some of the pics... IDK where I saw the entire engine build though, sadly.

http://www.airsociety.net/forums/sho...y-is-no-object


/threadjack

[wanabgts]

We use the R&R aluminum rods in all of our high powered EVO engines. They do help the bearings survive high rpm and high power use. We have found that the service life of the rods can be increased by keeping oil and coolant temperatures on the low end of the spectrum. We typically run 160 thermostats.

Also make sure whatever machine shop you are using is familiar with aluminum rods as there are some inherent quirks when using/machining the block for them. The big end will need to be torqued to spec multiple times before the measurements become repeatable.

You will likely have to notch the block for them to fit, and clearance between the top of the rod and piston are a often overlooked measurement. We shoot for between .040 and .060.

zack

[PoorMans180SX]

When I worked at the local shop, we'd use BME forged aluminum rods in our drag engines. Not a ton of miles got racked up, but lots and lots of practice and competition drag runs. Never had any problems except when an oil pump failed. Bearing contacted crank, and instead of spinning (bearings are pinned in place), it just seized and the rod snapped.