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  #71  
Old 05-18-2010, 09:59 PM
McCoy McCoy is offline
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OK OK, I took some pictures for you, Matt

Quality is fine, mine had some repairs around the drivers side head lamp that you can see, shouldn't be noticed once it's painted. Fitment is still unknown as I need a helper to get the factory one off again.

It looks to be strong enough for track usage with the help of the aero catch hood pins that I have... then again I'm not expert.



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  #72  
Old 05-19-2010, 06:41 AM
Matt93SE Matt93SE is offline
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I wonder if these were "seconds" since they weren't getting a CF topcoat, thus the repaired corner??
If it wasn't for a race car, I certainly wouldn't accept that..

I've got some regular hood pins right now, but will be buying a set of aerocatch pins when I replace this one.
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  #73  
Old 05-19-2010, 07:37 AM
McCoy McCoy is offline
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The hood that logr got looked a lot better than this one. I won't complain unless there is a fitment issue as this is a car I don't drive on the street anymore and I am planning on painting the hood.
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  #74  
Old 05-19-2010, 08:46 AM
logr logr is offline
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As I understand it, these were built for us, to be very light weight. They built normal ones first and had to start over to do them lightweight. I wanted under 20lbs and they are. 13lbs feels like nothing. The skeleton looks like any others I have seen so I don't see why there would be any issues with staying on the car, definately want hood pins though.
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  #75  
Old 05-19-2010, 09:05 AM
Epstein Epstein is offline
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Looking at that last pic, and speaking of hood pins.... Basically all of these hoods seem to be molded from a factory hood in the latch area. Has anyone considered cutting out the metal latch section of a stock hood and rivnut-ing it over the top of an aftermarket hood latch section (trimmed of course)? My line of thinking is that the stock latch section is obviously robust, and loading on it / through it would be distributed over a wide area with this sort of transplant. Maybe? I just don't like hood pins.
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  #76  
Old 05-19-2010, 09:20 AM
Def Def is offline
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The main problem I'd not the latch busting that I've seen, just it coming loose from the hood itself. Just put a few layers of fiberglas around it and it'll be fine.

Btw, I again STRONGLY recommend a little bit of fiberglass reinforcement on at least the area where your hood pins/latches are going to be. The mat used is really weak, and very suseptible to cracking. 15 mins spent before you mount your pins night just keep the hood from breaking apart in the future.
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  #77  
Old 05-19-2010, 09:34 AM
a_ahmed a_ahmed is offline
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Why not ask them to modify the hoods more to fit our requirements like you did with shreding the weight.
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  #78  
Old 05-19-2010, 10:05 AM
McCoy McCoy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a_ahmed View Post
Why not ask them to modify the hoods more to fit our requirements like you did with shreding the weight.
It took them two tries just to get a lighter hood with no CF layer as it was... I'd hate to see how many tries it would take to meet additional requests, lol. For a $250 hood I'm not complaining a bit.

Def, guess I'll have to do a little research on laying fiberglass as I've never done it before...
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  #79  
Old 05-19-2010, 10:06 AM
a_ahmed a_ahmed is offline
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ya i have no clue or space or tools to do what def described... would love to but im in an appartment... as with wanting to learn welding (if you recall)... the odours/smell whatever probably will be icky to deal with heh... ah well
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  #80  
Old 05-19-2010, 10:53 AM
Matt93SE Matt93SE is offline
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Fiberglass is eeaaaaasy if you don't mind making a mess.

you can buy it by the quart/gallon at Lowes/ HD/ / Wal Mart/ auto parts store.. To reinforce the spots Def's describing, you'll only need a partial 1qt can.

Get some of the chopped mat, not the woven stuff- chopped is stronger in multiple planes than mat.

Sand the area you want to apply it to, plus a couple inches for good measure. the rougher the better.

Then grab a cool whip bowl, some stir sticks, and a paintbrush (wear some thick kitchen type rubber gloves too. regular latex/nitrile gloves will melt through!)

pour a bit of resin in the bowl and mix w/ hardener per instructions. stir well until you see the color change on the resin. stir a little bit more for grins.

then what I do is brush/roll some resin onto the area to apply a thin layer of resin to the surface. brushing does well to remove the small bubbles on the surface that really weaken the bond between layers.
then take small strips/patches of the mat and dunk it into the resin, or place it on a sheet of plastic and pour some resin on to it. using the sticks/brush/whatever, work the resin into the mat until it's saturated. this is visibly obvious when it's done.
then simply lay the mat out onto the part and work the bubbles out. If you want to do multiple layers, you can add 2-3-4-5 layers at a time and then let it harden as per instructions- some brands you can use a heat lamp to cure faster, some you can't.

when it's hardened, rough sand and add additional layers, or finish sand and paint...

If the bottom of the hood isn't painted, I'd recommend shooting it with something to keep oil and grease from impregnating into the glass. it shouldn't have any issues with that, but it never hurts to give it a layer or two of gloss black to make things look nice and protect against oil & grease.
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