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  #81  
Old 09-06-2017, 09:41 PM
The big fist The big fist is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gills View Post
GKTech shifter was rubbish for you? Besides the issues I mentioned, the GKTech shifter feels worlds better than what I had. Zero weirdness.
I had my friends shifter which we fitted (he didn't have his gbox yet) and it just felt very light and flimsy. Fitment on the car was not good and straight away I said that reverse lockout wont last. To be fair it was just a trial, no prolonged use of it fitted.
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  #82  
Old 09-17-2017, 05:28 AM
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I've been swamped with work so progress has been minimal. I got the shifter installed and slave cylinder bled. The shifter required really minimal trimming of the rear part of the stock shifter opening but I was able to use the OEM rubber boot and trim ring. It feels nice with reasonable throws, but there's a little friction that keeps it from easily popping back up after being in reverse. Will have to see if things loosen up with usage. I tossed my DSG Delrin knob on there for now. Also have a tall aluminum knob that Def machined up to try.

Z gearbox aims the slave fitting down and toward the downpipe which I don't love but clearance looks okay.






In other news, I got some clear bra applied on the M3 so I don't destroy the front end driving in winter here. Different wheels with snow tires to come. And I got some snows for our CX-5 on Sparco rally style wheels which I think will look pretty cool. Downsize from stock 19" (!) wheels to 17". Test fit:

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  #83  
Old 09-17-2017, 06:46 AM
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It seemed like if some bolts were over torqued on the bottom of the shifter/linkage - it could bind things up when there's lots of rotation there, like going into/out of reverse. Maybe check there?

I believe there's a speed bleeder on the Z33 slave - not sure if you noticed that. Should make it easy to bleed assuming the master didn't go dry. Last time I opened up the clutch system the master went dry and I had to futz with it for a whole weekend to get it primed. Ended up figuring out that it won't prime with a speedbleeder on the end. The spring force of the bleeder is enough to overcome all the gravity load of the cylinder and then some (tried some pressurized air to prime it). Just had to remove the speed bleeder and let it gravity prime for 5 mins, then it was an easy 30 secs to bleed off the bleeder.

Learning curve of 1 so they say...
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  #84  
Old 09-18-2017, 05:03 PM
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Argh. Noticed this after I torqued the head back down. I had misshifted and overrevved but car sounded the same and ran fine. Apparently not...





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  #85  
Old 09-18-2017, 05:52 PM
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Yikes! I've heard of that happening on a VE, but I think it's really rare. I'd probably pull the head off and do the retainers that way just to double check the valves are straight. Good news is they're stock VE retainers, so should be pretty cheap to replace.

There's a Harley Vrod shim kit that's like $70 that'll work on a VE. Probably the easiest thing.
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  #86  
Old 09-18-2017, 07:57 PM
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Head is back off. Sigh. Looks like just those two affected but now I feel compelled to go through everything and look for failures. Unlikely to be able to drive this thing again this year with baby due in a month and winter approaching.

I should maybe just pick up an FD if I'm going to have a perpetual jackstand queen and at least have it be the object of my JDM lust

Thinking about getting track insurance and running the M3 to get another DE in this year before the season ends.


So do we think this is just from the overrev?
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  #87  
Old Yesterday, 04:37 AM
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Yea, had to have been from valve bounce during an overrev situation. Otherwise the shims can't pop out because the cams hold the rockers down. Valve clearances were good right before she went on the trailer, so it had to have happened during the overrev.

The Supertech duals probably saved some piston to valve contact, since it likely zinged up pretty high to toss the shim.

I don't think it'd take that much extra time to replace the retainers and reshim. I'd check other valve clearances just to be sure. I want to say 0.007-0.009" on intake, and 0.010-0.013" on exh. I'd check the bottom of the rockers with a mirror as well, but if they're just lightly marked I'd run them.
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  #88  
Old Yesterday, 10:01 AM
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BTW - you should be able to find those shims - actually probably a good idea all things considered.

If you haven't changed the oil lately, they might both be stuck to the magnetic drain plug. Otherwise should be somewhere up in the head I'd think.
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  #89  
Old Yesterday, 10:35 AM
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I found one on the head. Going to check the oil pan later today. Definitely don't want one missing in there :O
Edit: found it on the head also. Hopefully clearances look okay just replacing.


Couple questions Def. In an unrelated incident I trashed the HG. You recall what thickness Cossie it was?

Not finding an obvious source of OE retainers. I can try contacting GregV, etc, but wanted to hear your thoughts on the titanium units versus stock steel. I recall there's the issue of galling with steel springs.
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  #90  
Old Yesterday, 01:21 PM
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The gasket was their usual 1.1 mm thickness I want to say. It wasn't thicker than stock.

The Ti stuff is like a gram lighter, but they're softer than the hardened steel valve spring. Which means the soft Ti retainer will wear, and it doesn't really have any thickness to give on the edge. They'll work fine, but seems like an unnecessary risk to take to me since that valvetrain will easily see 9k RPM.
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DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902
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