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  #11  
Old 10-12-2017, 02:31 PM
e1_griego e1_griego is offline
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There is absolutely a washer that goes behind the nut. It's got a cutout for the spindle.

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  #12  
Old 10-13-2017, 01:48 AM
croustibat croustibat is offline
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So I finally got the info on this washer: this diagram is from the first gens S14 spindles. The spindle itsself was changed and has no cutout now; the washer is only needed on spindles with the cutout. The bearing assembly itself has not changed.

Back to square one... If someone has a known uninstalled wheel bearing around, can he/she tell me how much play on the bearing race on the nut side is acceptable when not installed ? Like "does not matter since the nut will remove all play", "it can nearly not move", "it can move a lot" and so on ?

On the current one I can move the race with my fingers without much problems.I can rock it a bit. Someone lent me an untested one but that race has TONS of play so i wonder if it is even worth trying it ( that and 2 studs need changing, so i do not want to waste my time installing other studs if the bearing is bad)
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  #13  
Old 10-13-2017, 12:42 PM
croustibat croustibat is offline
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Some news. The front wheels were checked. Right one is perfectly straight, the left one has ~1.5mm out of round on the inner side (that is ~0.04" if my math is correct). Is that enough to create that kind of problem ?
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  #14  
Old 10-13-2017, 12:59 PM
Matt93SE Matt93SE is offline
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I wouldn't think so. I have more than that in many race wheels from curbage and whatnot, and I don't have your knockback issues.

can you swap right to left wheels and see what happens? (long as it's dry, tread direction doesn't matter)
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  #15  
Old 10-15-2017, 08:45 AM
croustibat croustibat is offline
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I will make a last attempt with the wheels i got by setting the car higher, that will prevent rubbing when braking. Then i will test by swapping the wheels. thing is, if the wheel is killing the bearing, i'd rather not ALSO kill the right one.
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  #16  
Old 10-17-2017, 06:40 AM
Def Def is offline
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1.5 mm is about 0.060", and that's quite a bit above runout limits for factory wheels, so I can't imagine that's being very nice to the bearings.

Why not replace the bent wheel?
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  #17  
Old 10-18-2017, 04:22 PM
Matt93SE Matt93SE is offline
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1.5mm is considerably less than the buildup of track rubber on tires. Ain't no big deal.
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  #18  
Old 10-18-2017, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt93SE View Post
1.5mm is considerably less than the buildup of track rubber on tires. Ain't no big deal.
Itís also probably bent laterally. Itís a lot of cyclical loading on things like bearings.
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  #19  
Old 10-18-2017, 08:15 PM
gills gills is offline
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Can you be more specific as to where you actually measured the wheel runout? Are you talking radially or laterally? Both? A flat spotted tire is probably a more extreme variance and I've raced on ones for hours without the bearings getting killed.

Matt's point reminded me of how much tires actually move on wheels of track cars (in conjunction to probably near what seems like 1 lbs of rubber accumulation randomly deposited inside the barrel in a race for me) with typical tire mounting procedure and wheel/tire interface wheel surface.

Here's my right rear after only a few practice sessions:


The line where "RR" is and the line on the wheel were perfectly aligned before the practice session. Every corner had similar movement. The rears were worse than the fronts.

My point here is that during my long ass races, the car almost always develops vibration in the wheels that we deal with for hours and my wheel bearings are perfectly fine. A lot of guys don't even balance their wheels because of how much movement there is with the tire. I still like to because I like starting a race with a smooth running car for a few laps.
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  #20  
Old 10-24-2017, 07:59 AM
croustibat croustibat is offline
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Sorry for staying silent so long, had a lot of stuff to do and test.

The 1.5mm "bend" is on the inner side of the barrel (gills pic shows the outer side of the wheel, the inner i refer is the other side of it). On a straight wheel both inner and outer should turn on a plane. That front wheel turns on a plane on the outer side but not on the inner side. I have no idea if this is clear or not ...

Anyway I raised the car and tested again with my friend's wheels. It feels like the problem is gone. I'll try driving around a bit more today with it and check again.

The reason i do not change the wheel is i have a hard time sourcing one. enkei RS-3 17x8, 2 piece. Not exactly easy to find.
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