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Old 10-30-2016, 07:41 PM
Sleepy_Steve Sleepy_Steve is offline
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Default I finally have adjustable arms... Now what?

So I have adjustable arms on my car now because TT4 seems like it will have a more open rule-set than TTD/C, and it seems like a good power to weight class for my 240 with stock SR.

The front tension rods seem pretty basic, I left those as close as I could to the factory arm lengths. In road racing with a manual rack, is there any reason to deviate from that?

Rear camber and toe arms are pretty straight forward. The rear traction arm length I know very little about. - I understand that the factory S14 rear geometry will gain both negative camber, and toe-in under compression. So now for the main two questions I have:
  1. What effect does lengthening the rear traction arm have on camber gain / loss. Same for toe-in/out?
  2. What effect does shortening the rear traction arm have on camber gain / loss. Same for toe-in/out?

Thanks guys!
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Old 10-30-2016, 08:55 PM
Def Def is offline
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There are some old posts going into traction rod length a lot. Jason M did the work I believe.

The short of it was a lowered car should have a trac rod about 8" to reduce bumpsteer.
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Old 10-30-2016, 09:48 PM
Sleepy_Steve Sleepy_Steve is offline
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Gotcha - I assume that's measured by the center of the bolts at each end of the arm?
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Old 10-31-2016, 11:41 AM
Def Def is offline
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Yep, center to center on rod end / upright bolt holes.
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Old 11-03-2016, 09:25 PM
Sleepy_Steve Sleepy_Steve is offline
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In other news - found said old thread: http://nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=1652

Now to build something in my garage to sit the car on so I can do rough alignments to get things close before going to an alignment rack.

My current thoughts center around 16 or 24 cinder blocks, and 8 12x12 vinyl floor tiles with some axle grease between them to allow the tires to move around some. Anyone else done something similar?
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Old 11-04-2016, 07:33 AM
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I think eyeballing the camber arms is fine, then use toe plates or the tread to roughly set toe close to zero. Mark a centerline on your rear subframe etc and that'll get your thrust within about 1/16".

I always felt it was easier to just move the car back and forth a bit instead of the floor tile trick. I've done both.
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Old 11-04-2016, 10:23 AM
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What do you plan on adjusting? Is this a full on ride height, corner balance, thrust, caster, camber, toe alignment?

I use vinyl tiles all the time with dry graphite lube in between them and they work incredibly well. Make sure the vinyl tiles you get don't have any tack whatsoever. Get the hardest, slippiest ones.

Setup spot I use a construction laser and shim the low corners to whatever the highest/reference corner is.
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