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Budget Single Slammer Turbo

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  • #16
    I hear ya el_griego. I do that and unbolt my subframe so it's still on the studs but about an inch lower. Still a pain.

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    • #17
      Easier solution: Buy SR

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      • #18
        ka oil pan is literally my worst memory from pre-swap

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Stingy49 View Post
          Thanks for the kind words gills. I've been reading your thread and thinking I should find a similar group to AER out here on the west coast to run this car in. Streeting it with a cage would be interesting though.....

          ........Now that I have those adjustable arms installed I've been thinking of how I should lift my car up a few inches in my garage on the cheap for alignments. Anyone have suggestions? Cinder blocks or 4x8 wood comes to mind.

          -Derek
          You're going to need/want a dedicated track car for any series like AER. The series most similar to AER out West is Lucky Dog Racing League (https://www.racelucky.com/). You're going to want some dedicated teammates also, which is the harder part!

          Get something wider than 8". I stack up 12" squares of 1x12 that was scrap from my work. 4" will be enough for you to reach stuff. I usually have the car on scales during alignments plus 2" worth of wood, so the car is elevated about 5-6". I use 1/16" and 1/8" aluminum sheet to shim the corners to level. Then the slippest 12" vinyl tiles stacked on top of each other from Home Depot to allow the suspension to settle when lowering. Works really well.
          Core4 Motorsports
          CLICK HERE for Wilwood FSL6R Radial Bracket & Rear Wilwood BBK GROUP BUY
          S14 VQ AER Endurance Racing Team

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          • #20
            Yeah I agree, teammates is definitely the harder part. It's awesome to learn about lucky dog. I've got some friends who have built themselves out of lemons and are looking for a replacement.

            Good idea. I actually went to Lowe's last night and bought slippy vinyl and aluminum bars to hang the strings on. I gotta go back and see if I can get them to cut me some sections of 1*12 or wait until I go to my parents house and use their wood tools.

            How are you determining when the car is level at each corner?

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            • #21
              Originally posted by Stingy49 View Post
              Yeah I agree, teammates is definitely the harder part. It's awesome to learn about lucky dog. I've got some friends who have built themselves out of lemons and are looking for a replacement.

              Good idea. I actually went to Lowe's last night and bought slippy vinyl and aluminum bars to hang the strings on. I gotta go back and see if I can get them to cut me some sections of 1*12 or wait until I go to my parents house and use their wood tools.

              How are you determining when the car is level at each corner?
              Yea, Lucky Dog should be something they'd fit in then. Although, I hear lemons in California is starting to get uber cheaty/fast. If you can't beat em, join em? lol

              I use one of these:




              and shim the lower corners up to the reference/highest corner.
              Core4 Motorsports
              CLICK HERE for Wilwood FSL6R Radial Bracket & Rear Wilwood BBK GROUP BUY
              S14 VQ AER Endurance Racing Team

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              • #22
                True haha. They haven't actually won an event yet so I think they're gonna run it until they win and get penalized.

                I mean if your at home alignment setup has lasers its basically a professional alignment rack right? Lol.

                Little out of my range right now but I get the concept. I need a level so maybe I'll get one with a laser in it and rig up my own ghetto version of that.

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                • #23
                  Although as it sits right now I could do an alignment with no stands lol. I haven't gotten around to lowering the rear end after I did the z32 knuckles with the rt.trackpro converters. I'm ready for rallycross.

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                  • #24
                    I thought those knuckle coverters were only for S14s to correct the angle difference for the S14 shock to Z32 shock mounting bushing.
                    '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                    DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                    http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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                    • #25
                      For a home alignment, I thought it was easier to use toe plate, then shoot a laser off the rear wheels to the front hub (laser level on the toe plate onto a square to measure the offset). Shooting the laser up to the front wheels gives you a lot of resolution on your thrust angle.

                      So essentially you set rear toe, checking here and there with the laser level to roughly tweak things in (i.e. if you're 1" off the front wheel on one side, 2" on the other and about at your toe-in setting, adjust them roughly so they're at 1.5" on both then set toe via toe plates). It's a little bit of back and forth, but once you get your thrust angle zero'd out, it's quick to adjust.

                      Toe plates up front just means setting it and seeing how far your steering wheel is off, then adjusting both sides to get that straight ahead.


                      Strings are nice if you can set them up repeatably, but I always had a hard time measuring off the strings reliably since you're doubling your measurement error and it's tough to really measure reliably against the tire IMO. What I thought was zero thrust angle in the rear ended up not being that close to zero when "verified" via the laser off the rear wheel plane method (which can easily get you to 0.01 degrees).
                      '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                      DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                      http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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                      • #26
                        Makes a lot of sense. Do y'all run standoffs when using toe plates? So that the toe plate is in contact with the rim and not the tire?

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                        • #27
                          Depends on the tire and wheel, but as long as you put a consistent and reasonable amount of force against it, measurements should be reliable even if against the tire.
                          '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                          DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                          http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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                          • #28
                            If you don't have a way to attach your DIY string setup to the car like the actual Smart String setup (http://www.smartracingproducts.com/smartstrings.html), avoid it. Any slight touch on what your anchoring your strings on, or movement on your car will require re-referencing. It's a PITA. Do what Def said or mimic/buy the Smart String setup.

                            As for the "fanciness" of lasers, any home owner has one of them in their arsenal and the cheaper ones aren't as precise as you think (and some of the run-of-mill laser racks aren't as precise as you think either, especially with who's setting it up most of the time). I just happen to use it more for race car stuff than home stuff, much to my wife's disdain.

                            I wouldn't worry about the toe plate on the tire. Where they touch the tire is typically uniform on either side. There's a kick-back on the plates where the tire hits the ground to clear the tire bulge. I think that's all you really need. Uniform pressure on the plates up against the tire like Def said is key and using consistent tension in the tape measures.
                            Core4 Motorsports
                            CLICK HERE for Wilwood FSL6R Radial Bracket & Rear Wilwood BBK GROUP BUY
                            S14 VQ AER Endurance Racing Team

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                            • #29
                              Key thing of doing this measurement is any error introduced on one side, is duplicated on the other side - so your net error between the two measurements is small.

                              Strings do not have the same luxury, so you have to get everything REALLY precise to get an accurate thrust angle off of it, since that thrust angle is the result of 4 measurements.

                              Honestly, anybody who says they can do a *really* accurate alignment with strings is full of it - it's impossible with the number of measurements and the measurement accuracy. But it's quick and easy to do at the track, and if the car goes faster - hey, it goes faster, who cares what the ultimate alignment is. But for us home gamers, I think it's better to go with something that's inherently more accurate, and not as easy to do at the track. Don't know about you guys, but I'm typically worried about a lot more at the track than trying to mess with my rear alignment. The most I could see being justified is someone putting in a tiny twist of toe-out or in up front being the same on both sides.
                              '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                              DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                              http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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                              • #30
                                Gotcha, yeah the ground based string setup seemed really finicky to me. I'm gonna go by Lowes again today and return the two 8ft aluminum extrusions and pick up some 2x10 lumber for spacing the car off the ground.

                                Do y'all think real toe plates or worth it or is rigging something up out of two beams just as easy?

                                Kind of like this:

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