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Budget Single Slammer Turbo

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  • Budget Single Slammer Turbo

    Hey All,

    With the initial completion of my KA24E-T build and the work I have been doing (and slacking off on recently) with gills to 3D scan and model the rear suspension of my s13 (Here), I felt like it was time to start a build thread. My main inspirations in doing so are to force my self to document the build more (I love taking pictures of other peoples cars but I hardly do of my own), to hear other people's input and ideas on the various sub-projects of the car (like the 3d scanning stuff), and to have something to show people when they are confused as to what the hell I do with all my free time.


    In the Beginning:





    Oooooooh.... Aaaaaaah..... Shiney.

    My S13 was actually chosen by my step-dad for me as my first car and I bought it during the middle of high school (about 6 years ago). It had pretty low miles for a S13 at 99,000. All throughout high school the mods I did were focused around value and the fact that I had lots of free time. This led to mods like the poly bushing set, tein lowering springs, camber correction bolts, and an adjustable whiteline front swaybar. All throughout high school I spent a whole lot more time driving the car up and down highway 49 than I did actually modifying it.


    Ft. Stockton, CA

    Where Things Get Wacky:

    Being a computer engineer by trade I decided that the first major mod I would do to my car would be to build and wire in my own MegaSquirt v3 standalone ecu. Yes, I installed a standalone ecu on my BONE STOCK ka24e and yes all my friends laughed at me. Haters gonna hate. The thinking in my head was that I could play around with the ecu for the next year while I waited until I had the money and time to do my turbo build.

    Building and tuning my own ecu was a whole bunch of work but I also learned a huge amount about the ka24e in the process. I also did a lot of research at this time on how to do "good" automotive wiring. I used Deutsch connectors for all of my added sensors and spent the time to braided sleeve and heat shrink the new portions of wiring.

    Me doing wiring for the new sensors. (Oil P and T)



    The State of the U-Joint:

    Even after doing the ecu the question in my head was whether I should do more suspension mods (mainly coilovers) or go down the path of a power adder. The decision was made for me when I found a set of Tein super drift coilovers on craigslist for $400. They were a higher spring rate than I wanted (10k,8k) but for the price I couldn't pass them up. Now in my mind it was clearly time to bump up the ole ka24e to something with more power.

    A year or two ago I had helped (Read: did all of the labor) my friend swap his 2011 Mitsubishi Ralliart from a Ralliart turbo to an Evo turbo. As payment he gave me his old turbo, intercooler, and bov with only 11,000 miles on it. The stock turbo was a TD04HL-15T-7 and is good for about ~250 HP. I planned my entire build around his old turbo.



    The first issue I ran into were the factory flanges on the exhaust turbine housing. I made pencil rubbings of the two flanges, scanned them into my computer, and modeled the flanges in autodesk fusion. I was able to test fit the flanges by printing them out on my 3d printer. You can see an example of this over in the suspension scanning thread. Once they were all set I had them plasma cut in 3/8in steel.

    The actual turbo manifold I made out of mild steel weld els and tees with a mazworx cnc ka24e flange.



    Also my super gorgeous last minute turbo outlet pipe.



    Oil temp and pressure with their welded in fittings. I absolutely love pulling our amazing car's oil pan. Nothing better than spending several hours fiddling with sub atomic bolts and grey rtv.



    I also did 460cc dsm injectors, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump (not actually installed yet), an oil filter upgrade+relocation, and a small atv battery to save weight and allow the intercooler piping to come through.

    Engine bay "glamour" shots and the pile of removed stuff (ft. the "I <3 Wood" sticker)





    Alright, I made a build post. Maybe gills will stop threatening me now...

    -Derek
    Last edited by Stingy49; 01-19-2018, 11:17 PM.

  • #2
    Today I had the pleasure of working on my car with it up on a lift for the first time. Being a 6'3" tall human it's usually a pain to be always bending into the engine bay or crawling under the car to do work so this was a nice break from the usual.

    I got to work in my friend's grandfather's race shop which was also pretty sweet. There were a few 600+hp v8s sitting around. To bad I just did a turbo...




    The goals for the day were to install my ISR Pro linkage kit, switch in my aluminum rear knuckles, and get some shots of the s13 subframe pickup points to generate a 3d model.

    The front went quickly. Out with the old in with the new.



    ft. my super thicc whiteline swaybar

    For the time being all of the arm lengths were set to the OEM length. I'll come back and change them another time once I decide what alignment settings I want to run.

    Up next was the bulk of the work at the rear end of the car. My rear brakes are in excellent condition.



    Pressing out the original bushing to install the rt.trackpro adapters. Not my favorite adapters to say the least. It's super unclear if you pressed the insert in with the correct alignment until you've actually bolted everything back up.



    The actual changing of the arms was relatively painless. Finding the correct scrap pieces in order to use the press and messing with the rt.trackpro adapter took hours. Old arms, new arms. Also extended wheel studs. My wallet is still feeling the effects of all these holiday purchases...




    I am having some binding of the RUCAs with the coilovers at droop. Anyone else have this issue?

    Bonus:
    My 100% CA legal wastegate dump



    It was fun for the first week. Now I'm desperately ready to tie it into the main tubing.

    And finally how my car looked after the suspension mods. I'd say it came out pretty sweet.



    Front camber is a bit positive. Turns left really well though.

    I'm about out of parts now so it's high time I did some suspension modeling and engine tuning. That will probably be next week or I'll do the last few parts I have around (fuel pump and front wheel studs). Until next weekend,

    -Derek, Jerry Rigger Extraordinaire.

    Comment


    • #3
      how are the inspection rules out there in cali? like if i moved out there and tried to get an inspection on my ls1 s13. will most shops fail it for no cats and etc?

      Comment


      • #4
        100%. They're very strict out here. Technically I think modifying any part, exhaust or intake, requires that the part have a carb (California air resource board) sticker. Usually you can get away with slight intake piping changes and stuff like that but definitely no headers etc.

        Comment


        • #5
          Does that factory bypass valve leak or draw air in at steady state cruise or idle? They almost all do from my experience... might want to check that.
          '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


          DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
          http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

          Comment


          • #6
            I'm almost certain it does. I can reach in and spin the sealing element at idle. I don't think it causes issues though because my ecu is map based. Unless I'm missing something.

            Comment


            • #7
              Except you could potentially suck air IN through that that's unfiltered.

              Why not plumb it back into the compressor intake like it's supposed to be used?
              '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


              DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
              http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

              Comment


              • #8
                Ahh.... ya good point. I think it's easier to just get a small filter, like a valve cover breather, over running a hose to the other side of the engine bay.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Nice thread, Derek!

                  Love that you went through the pains of installing a MS and re-wiring on the stock KA first.

                  And doing the oil pan with the engine still in the car is a form of torture.
                  Core4 Motorsports
                  CLICK HERE for Wilwood FSL6R Radial Bracket & Rear Wilwood BBK GROUP BUY
                  S14 VQ AER Endurance Racing Team

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Really? I've pulled and installed the oil pan of an SR in an S chassis at least... 4-5 times I'd guess. I never thought it was very difficult, especially on a stock pan where you can use a thin socket on all the bolts. Zip 'em off, separate pan, RTV, reinstall pan with a few bolts, then zip the rest in.
                    '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                    DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                    http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Def View Post
                      Really? I've pulled and installed the oil pan of an SR in an S chassis at least... 4-5 times I'd guess. I never thought it was very difficult, especially on a stock pan where you can use a thin socket on all the bolts. Zip 'em off, separate pan, RTV, reinstall pan with a few bolts, then zip the rest in.
                      Well not really REALLY, but I hate doing that stuff with the engine in the car. I'd almost rather pull the whole engine(kind of). Cleaning the old RTV/gasket off, using the OE cork gasket, making sure you don't fudge the RTV during installation, irritating access to some of the bolt heads, etc.
                      Core4 Motorsports
                      CLICK HERE for Wilwood FSL6R Radial Bracket & Rear Wilwood BBK GROUP BUY
                      S14 VQ AER Endurance Racing Team

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        oh, and I totally forgot we had an IJ crank scraper and windage tray so it was really impossible to do it. The scraper had to be aligned with the engine out.
                        Core4 Motorsports
                        CLICK HERE for Wilwood FSL6R Radial Bracket & Rear Wilwood BBK GROUP BUY
                        S14 VQ AER Endurance Racing Team

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          KA pan in the car isn't fun, but doable. SR two-piece pan is easy peasy since you're just swapping the sump.

                          My first foray into FI was a sohc-t setup, as well. All the torque and none of the hp! lol

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Def, for me the struggle is removing the oil pickup tube while the pan is sitting down an inch or two. If I would have dropped the front subframe it would have been easier but that required more jacks than I had.

                            Thanks for the kind words gills. I've been reading your thread and thinking I should find a similar group to AER out here on the west coast to run this car in. Streeting it with a cage would be interesting though...

                            e1_griego, the ka24e top end is indeed lacking lol. Speaking of torque though, my stock clutch is not liking the 7psi of boost even with the safe retarded ignition timing. It doesn't start slipping until after like 20-30 mins of driving though. My engagement point was right at the top of my pedal range so I adjusted it as much as I could and still hit the cruise control safety switch. We will see how much better that makes it when it stops raining here.

                            Now that I have those adjustable arms installed I've been thinking of how I should lift my car up a few inches in my garage on the cheap for alignments. Anyone have suggestions? Cinder blocks or 4x8 wood comes to mind.

                            -Derek

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              My method is to loosen the nuts on the motor mount (both top and bottom) and then to jack up the motor off the crossmember. Then you can still pull the pickup like that and pull the whole thing out. Little bit of a bitch of an install but it's doable. I've done 3 or 4 pans in the car, would prefer never to do another.

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