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  • #91
    Originally posted by Def View Post
    You can probably reduce drag slightly with some little fences in front of the front tires. They are sticking way out there, so any bit you can do to shield them will likely help, especially now that your fenders aren't vented (can you put some small cut-out vents in the panel you made?).

    Also, any reason why you're going up in brakes so much up front? Or are you going to a Z33 track rotor or something?

    Any thoughts to engine mods?

    Definite yes on the front fences/canards or the equivalent. A splitter/front end treatment is on the short list before the next race at Calabogie in Canada (8/3-5). I also need to seal off the cowl area on the new hood as I think that was contributing to higher than normal engine temps (220F range). We ran out of time to get that done.

    As for adding ventilation on the panels I made, yea it's a good idea. I just need to find the right vents for my eye that will actually work. I was thinking about making a punch/die and doing something myself at my work also.


    As for the brakes, I'm experimenting more than anything else. Having the same compound front and rear with my rear kit and your fronts (12.2" OD front) was a hair too much rear bias. It's very close, but I'm erring on the side of caution for the endurance racing aspect. The 11 and 97 compounds aren't too far off in CoF though. The bigger front rotor does move bias to the front barely 1% so it was more for a "feel" change than anything else. I also picked up a 15/16" BMC based on my very long conversation with an engineer at PFC, so there were many changes (pads, BMC, rotor size, slotted rotors) which makes things more difficult to pinpoint.

    Balance was better for my application for sure. Pedal travel was definitely longer, but we weren't necessarily fond of it and the feel. Pad wear seems to be very good also and the pad/rotor combo is way quieter (I'm sticking with these PFC compounds for awhile I think). But, the caveat is, we lost some fluid and I think I see leakage at the BMC to booster interface for whatever reason. Brand new BMC also (Centric). I think I'm going to try a 17/16" BMC next. OR, I'm going to fab up a dual BMC setup that I have brewing in my brain.
    Core4 Motorsports
    CLICK HERE for Wilwood FSL6R Radial Bracket & Rear Wilwood BBK GROUP BUY
    S14 VQ AER Endurance Racing Team

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    • #92
      Oh and as far as engine mods, this is something I struggle with because I do want them very badly, but doing so will put us in the next fastest class (the fastest) for sure, but still won't be quite enough power to compete for the overall win if there's no attrition. The last race we were in class 4 and we very happy to be so because we're at the pointy end (still need to share result from last race) there.

      If I do anything, I think it'll be either an UpRev tuner cable/software or a Link G4+ standalone so I can possibly make a "fuel efficiency" map and/or squeeze a few more HP out. We can squeeze out ~1hr25min from a full tank on track with no yellows with the current setup. That leaves us basically no strategy in regards to pit stops in a 9 hour race which requires 5 mandatory pit stops. More power will require fuel cell modifications and I don't want to deal (pay) with that change at this moment in time. Plus, the S14 tank is in such a great spot within the chassis and gets no starvation until the very end.

      When we're ready, we're all thinking a VQ37VHR and possibly give that "400bhp" Z1 motorsports package a shot. Even if it's only 375bhp, in the S14 at 2500-2600lbs, it'll move quite nicely.
      Last edited by gills; 06-07-2018, 07:02 PM.
      Core4 Motorsports
      CLICK HERE for Wilwood FSL6R Radial Bracket & Rear Wilwood BBK GROUP BUY
      S14 VQ AER Endurance Racing Team

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      • #93
        On the brakes - I'd definitely go 17/16" MC. The pressure required for lockup still didn't seem very high on track with the pads up to temp IMO. Have you thought of shimming the MC prop valve and putting a proportioniing valve from Wilwood inline? I did it, and it wasn't hard. Very easy to tweak bias as you need. Then if it rains you can push bias back some to account for less weight transfer.

        On the power thing, is it peak power that you're rated on, or average power? Maybe you could up the VE a little bit, then flatten the peak to make your peak HP over a wider window?
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        • #94
          Good to hear. Last time I had a 17/16 MC was on my S13 with full Z32 setup and an automatic S14 booster I believe. Touchiest damn brakes I ever used. But, that was definitely attributed to the booster as going to the B13 sentra one made a huge difference for modulation.

          I did have the MC prop valve shimmed, but I've also removed all shimming for the time being. Thinking of this, wouldn't it be best to just remove the internal prop valve completely to run an inline prop valve?


          We are classed based on lap times between the drivers on the team during qualifying. Then throughout the race, lap times are monitored closely to watch for sand bagging.
          Core4 Motorsports
          CLICK HERE for Wilwood FSL6R Radial Bracket & Rear Wilwood BBK GROUP BUY
          S14 VQ AER Endurance Racing Team

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