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  • Lots to update here, but in the meantime at Watkins Glen this weekend. Here's a live streaming link for the Saturday 9 hour:

    https://youtu.be/w2vU9OaCXqU


    Unfortunately, we had some teething issues so we're not competitive for today's race. Tomorrow looks to be raining, but it's a new race. Will update thread with ABS and other info next week.


    Note to everyone, if your pads don't slide nicely into your calipers take them out and grind down the sides a hair. My rear pads got stuck on the rotor on the rear left and dragged on the rotor drastically when warming them up on the parade laps. Such a stupid thing to kill our day.
    Last edited by gills; 04-13-2019, 08:11 AM.
    Core4 Motorsports
    CLICK HERE for Wilwood FSL6R Radial Bracket & Rear Wilwood BBK GROUP BUY
    S14 VQ AER Endurance Racing Team

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    • Hey sorry for the delay here guys. I will post a proper update this week hopefully. Most definitely need some closure on the ABS as I was chasing an issue in the rear that turned out to be obvious in the end. It worked flawlessly at Watkins Glen which was VERY wet on Sunday and put to the ultimate test.

      Speaking of the brakes, here are the new brakes in all their glory from the Watkins Glen event:


      Rear brakes....fully bolt on without any clearancing or cutting. Works on OEM, Z32 or aftermarket uprights that keep OEM caliper mounting locations, and has the option to be used with a Z32 ebrake mechanism:



      Front brakes...the most versatile bracket on the market can be used with an off the shelf Z33 track model rotor and a Wilwood FSL6R caliperfor the ultimate cost effective performance based BBK, or used with Core4's proprietary full floating rotor hats with 332mm x 32mm rotor rings (17" wheels) or 355mm x 32mm rotor rings for really high power and high grip applications (and 18"+ wheels).



      Stay tuned for the guys at Speed Academy to install these kits on their kouki S14 K-swapped project car.
      Core4 Motorsports
      CLICK HERE for Wilwood FSL6R Radial Bracket & Rear Wilwood BBK GROUP BUY
      S14 VQ AER Endurance Racing Team

      Comment


      • OK, so where to being.

        While the engine was getting a minor refresh, we decided to use HR head gaskets to open up the coolant channel at the back of the DE cylinder banks, which are typically closed off. This should allow for more uniform heat transfer and minimized hot spots at the back of the cylinder banks.

        Area opened up circled in red:


        Closer look:



        Also digging deeper with an exhaust leak, found there was a crack at the collector of the passenger side 370Z header:


        Cleaned up and welded. Hopefully it holds up:



        Also got some fresh exhaust wrap on them. The existing stuff basically disintegrated off:



        Engine back in the car with some new freshness:




        Here's the finished up BMC firewall brace. This worked out pretty well with a definite reduction in firewall flex using the eye test. This can be made more effective if you pickup mounting points that are further apart. As is, you can actually see the strut tower contort a bit when applying the brakes.



        'meh' welds:




        Finally the MK60 E46 M3 ABS system. I think we are 1 of 2 S-chassis in the world that have this ABS system implemented. We ended up mounting the module and all necessary components on a panel I made up on the passenger side rear seat deck. The engine compartment is way too busy as is and I already have enough weight hanging over the front axle. The obvious con being a large run of lines.

        The hard-lines are nickel copper alloy and all flares are 37 degree AN flares with tube sleeves and tube nuts. Then quite a few AN bulkhead fittings. I'm using banjo-to-AN fittings at the master cylinder. Since the master was a non-ABS, the middle port had to be plugged. For this I also used a banjo-to-AN fitting and then just capped it off with an AN cap. Working great. I don't have good pictures of all this mounted up.

        ABS module and lateral/yaw sensor mounted on the plate to the right of it:


        ABS install pics:



        System needs two 15amp fuses and one 5amp. The 5amp can be switched to reset the system while on the move.



        2 supply lines from MC, and 1 return to the front left caliper:


        Master Cylinder:







        SO, once everything was installed and I started testing. There were rear wheel speed sensors faults being thrown. There were really slight drop offs in wheel speed when logging them that was enough to fault the system:




        Thinking that possibly it was an air gap issue, I tried reducing the air gap by milling the diff cover. Nothing. I removed the steel sleeve that protrudes from the diff cover that the sensor resides in thinking that maybe there was some interference. This circled in red:



        To this:




        And still the same issue.

        At that point, I didn't have anymore time before our test day on 4/1 to sort it out. The ABS worked very intermittently and then would basically throw an error after the first time ABS was activated and then would stop working. The good news is that when the ABS throws a fault, the brake system behaves as it did without it. I managed to top my personal best at the track and we got within 0.2 seconds of our best ever at the track with 18 hour old Hankook RS4's, where our previous best was set with NT-01's.


        Obligatory test day pic with new Core4 BBK's:


        (OH, and the diff. Definitely an improvement. Noticeably easier to move and roll around the paddock and garage. Still plenty of capability to kick the ass end out under power as well. Did I notice less of a tendency for the car to want to track straight when off the throttle? Perhaps a little, but not as much of a change as I was expecting. It did make less noise though if there was ever any rear lock up and in general. But, more on the diff later in my next post about the Watkins Glen event. )


        So, with basically less than a week from the Watkins Glen event, resolving the ABS was priority number one. So while troubleshooting, I had somewhat of an epiphany. Although it was difficult to do while installed on the car, I noticed the signal would get better if I moved the sensor around and held it in a different position. I then simply looked at a picture of how an E46 M3 rear speed sensor actually mounts on an M3.


        Notice the orientation. The mounting bolt is inline with the direction of rotation of the wheel/tone ring.


        Just to refresh your memory, here's the Nissan diff cover which mounts the sensors 90 degrees from the rotation of the tone rings:



        Now this seems pretty obvious, but I assumed this was how the E46 sensors were mounted also. When I realized the 90 degree difference and brought it up to company that makes the custom harnesses for these, they said "they believe it shouldn't matter." Since it wasn't a concrete answer my gut knew that this was the issue. I never thought orientation would matter for these things, but it does!

        SO, because there's not really material on the diff cover to just rotate these and have material to drill and tap, I welded some material and milled it flat (I'm getting pretty damn good at removing diffs now!). I did this very quickly with whatever material I could find so it looks a little ****ty:



        Buttoned it all back up, hooked up the scanner and let it run in gear for about 15 minutes. ZERO FAULTS. Game on for Watkins Glen!! Here's what the speed signals are supposed to look like:

        Butter smooth:



        In hindsight, perhaps it would've been better to just use the Z33 rear wheel speed sensors. The only customization required is that they need to be shimmed away from the tone ring since they would interfere as is. The depth of the E46 M3 sensor happens to be perfect. Again, pick your poison.



        Watkins Glen event is finished I will post the results of that soon. But, our next race is this weekend (5/17) at New Jersey Motorsports Park.
        Last edited by gills; 05-14-2019, 07:57 AM.
        Core4 Motorsports
        CLICK HERE for Wilwood FSL6R Radial Bracket & Rear Wilwood BBK GROUP BUY
        S14 VQ AER Endurance Racing Team

        Comment


        • interesting idea about using the hr headgasket. i have to do some research on that concerning the ls1 motors. the rear of my ls1 runs ~10 degrees hotter than the front. i only noticed it after looking at my scanner reading the ecu temp sensor thats located at the front of the head and comparing it to my guage which the sensor for that is on the back of the head.

          im normally used to seeing bango fitting have like a tab on the component to prevent them from moving like some calipers. do you have any to hold yours? or its something to just monitor from time to time?

          Comment


          • Originally posted by clotuning View Post
            interesting idea about using the hr headgasket. i have to do some research on that concerning the ls1 motors. the rear of my ls1 runs ~10 degrees hotter than the front. i only noticed it after looking at my scanner reading the ecu temp sensor thats located at the front of the head and comparing it to my guage which the sensor for that is on the back of the head.

            im normally used to seeing bango fitting have like a tab on the component to prevent them from moving like some calipers. do you have any to hold yours? or its something to just monitor from time to time?

            I really didn't word it well with the HR gasket. Read here for better detail of what going with the HR gasket on a DE:

            https://5523motorsports.com/the-thre...n-just-3-days/


            I'm not sure I understand your second question, but there's no features on the MC preventing them from rotating. Once you get them close to their orientation you can just tighten them and they're good to do. Just have to compensate a little for some rotation during tightening. Also make sure you use copper crush washers and not aluminum on a brake system.
            Core4 Motorsports
            CLICK HERE for Wilwood FSL6R Radial Bracket & Rear Wilwood BBK GROUP BUY
            S14 VQ AER Endurance Racing Team

            Comment


            • Hey all, I'm due for an update here and I will get to it eventually.

              I just want to mention that if anyone needs any parts whatsoever (anything!), please reach out to me. I now have the ability to sell many different brands of aftermarket parts for all types of cars and trucks.

              My website is a work in progress, so just PM me or send an email to info@core4motorsports.com
              Core4 Motorsports
              CLICK HERE for Wilwood FSL6R Radial Bracket & Rear Wilwood BBK GROUP BUY
              S14 VQ AER Endurance Racing Team

              Comment


              • copy and paste from Zilvia:

                Originally posted by eagleeyes221
                I have a Cusco type RS. Went from a 2 way at 100% lock to 1.5 way at 60% lock. I didn't mess around with any of the preload springs as i could pull the diff again to make any changes if needed. I am curious to see what the difference in feel is between a 1.5 way and a 1 way diff is. Thats interesting, im looking forward to the next update now
                Yea the M-Factory is basically identical to the RS. And you made the right decision to go to those settings if it's anything but a drift car.

                You lose some preload when you lower lock % so if you want to keep the same preload as before, you'd have to add 2-4 more springs. The lock % and preload amount are interdependent.

                But, speaking of Cusco, their literature is what made me realize something that M-Factory mentions nowhere and their US office hasn't replied back to me on yet.

                So I noticed this notch on the deceleration side of the 1.5 way ramp at the start of all this, but didn't think anything of it at the time (pre-Watkins Glen).




                Taking a closer look at how the "cross shaft" mates up against the deceleration face, it made sense as to why this notch has developed. It's sharp edge contact:




                So post Watkins Glen it got me thinking because the diff always acted the strangest in deceleration when turning (slower turns). That notch could be affecting function and causing weirdness.

                Then when going through Cusco documents, I stumbled upon this diagram that shows the cross shaft is actually reversed with the more angle/curved side against the deceleration ramp on the 1.5way:




                There are just pictures and diagrams that show this. There's no actual wording that mentions that this needs to be done. So, I flipped the cross shaft to see what it would look like.

                Looks like meant to be if you ask me:

                vs this:



                Looks pretty obvious. So, I assembled it that way only to realize that the stack height of everything increased because the cross shaft contacts the ramps in slightly different spots when flipped (you can see the spacing of the ramp plates is slightly larger in the pics above). To get it to work this way, I'd have grind down the washers at the very ends of the clutch stack. I bailed and just set it to 1way for the New Jersey race for the time being.

                This makes it seem like that perhaps it isn't correct to flip the cross shaft, but I'm convinced that it is based on the few things mentioned above. Cusco even shows it flipped in their diagrams. I'd bet that there wouldn't be an issue with a Cusco RS doing this since the contact points would make it the same stack height when flipped, as that is what they show to do.

                Anyway, thought it was worth sharing..
                Core4 Motorsports
                CLICK HERE for Wilwood FSL6R Radial Bracket & Rear Wilwood BBK GROUP BUY
                S14 VQ AER Endurance Racing Team

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                • How much does the stack height grow of the assembly? Seems pretty minor based on the pic.
                  '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                  DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                  http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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                  • Originally posted by Def View Post
                    How much does the stack height grow of the assembly? Seems pretty minor based on the pic.
                    I didn't measure it, unfortunately. But it was enough that the the diff was essentially "spooled" with zero springs. Unless I missed something, I'm pointing to the stack height change. I disassembled/assembled it 3 or 4 times to take gradually take out preload springs also.
                    Core4 Motorsports
                    CLICK HERE for Wilwood FSL6R Radial Bracket & Rear Wilwood BBK GROUP BUY
                    S14 VQ AER Endurance Racing Team

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                    • Seems like you could just grind a chamfer on the decel side of the clutch disk basket to give enough clearance for the cross pin to ride up higher in the cutout in that config. I'm betting it's a tolerance stack up issue, where they designed it to fit together with everything at nominal, and you happen to have enough tolerance stack up which causes a pretty big difference in the end stack height.

                      It definitely looks like it's designed to ride like that in a 1.5 way config tho'.
                      '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                      DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                      http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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                      • Originally posted by gills View Post
                        copy and paste from Zilvia:

                        Looks pretty obvious. So, I assembled it that way only to realize that the stack height of everything increased because the cross shaft contacts the ramps in slightly different spots when flipped (you can see the spacing of the ramp plates is slightly larger in the pics above). To get it to work this way, I'd have grind down the washers at the very ends of the clutch stack. I bailed and just set it to 1way for the New Jersey race for the time being.

                        This makes it seem like that perhaps it isn't correct to flip the cross shaft, but I'm convinced that it is based on the few things mentioned above. Cusco even shows it flipped in their diagrams. I'd bet that there wouldn't be an issue with a Cusco RS doing this since the contact points would make it the same stack height when flipped, as that is what they show to do.

                        Anyway, thought it was worth sharing..
                        I have a Cusco RS and it doesn't have anything that sounds like what you're describing here. Could you just remove the washers to achieve the necessary stack height? I've read through their documentation multiple times when changing my set ups and have never seen any mention of the RS having extra washers, but have seen that the MZ gets special conical washers.

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by Scores240 View Post

                          I have a Cusco RS and it doesn't have anything that sounds like what you're describing here. Could you just remove the washers to achieve the necessary stack height? I've read through their documentation multiple times when changing my set ups and have never seen any mention of the RS having extra washers, but have seen that the MZ gets special conical washers.
                          They are just large flat washers about ~ 3mm thick, not conical. There's one on either side of the clutch stacks at the very ends. RS doesn't have those?

                          If I remove those washers the stack would be loose as a goose.
                          Core4 Motorsports
                          CLICK HERE for Wilwood FSL6R Radial Bracket & Rear Wilwood BBK GROUP BUY
                          S14 VQ AER Endurance Racing Team

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                          • I bought mine used through a importer a few years back. It doesn't have those washers but I don't know if they were removed by the previous owner. It seems that there is very little pre-load on mine in comparison to your description, my diff casing cover sticks up only a couple MM from the stack height.

                            It also ended up being a diff for a VLSD car as my stock 240sx output stubs didn't work in it. Luckily though a few years before that i bought a jdm VLSD / pumpkin / axle combo from ebay that had 5 bolt pattern stubs and swapped them in. I've since found that the stubs are the same as 300zx diff stubs, so that was where i got my ABS tone rings.

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                            • Weird. Pretty sure the M-Factory LSD's are basically copies of the RS. 10 clutch plates per side, coil spring preloading, etc. The washers seem to be there to provide a buffer between the case and the end clutch plates.

                              You get a chance to work on your ABS yet?

                              Core4 Motorsports
                              CLICK HERE for Wilwood FSL6R Radial Bracket & Rear Wilwood BBK GROUP BUY
                              S14 VQ AER Endurance Racing Team

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                              • Just wanted to share some rotor weights and how they compare to the Core4 2-piece front and rear rotors. It's remarkable how much weight savings a 2-piece rotor offers, while offering far better cooling/thermal efficiency.


                                Front Z32 rotor:


                                Front Z33 track (brembo) rotor (heavy mofo):


                                Defsport 2-piece with 12.2 x 1.25 (missing hardware too):


                                Front Core4 2-piece 13.06 x 1.25:


                                Rear Z32 rotor:


                                Rear Core4 2-piece 12.88 x 0.81 w/ modular e-brake drum:
                                Core4 Motorsports
                                CLICK HERE for Wilwood FSL6R Radial Bracket & Rear Wilwood BBK GROUP BUY
                                S14 VQ AER Endurance Racing Team

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