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  • $1k... sheesh... I didn't think it'd cost that much. An AP1 ABS pump/computer with connector is probably in the $40-50 range.


    And like you said, you really shouldn't be getting into it much. You can push your braking zone back about a car length and know that ABS will keep you from completely blowing the corner if you get lockup. But you'll still be slower than if you didn't get ABS to kick in, as it does allow some locking to occur.
    '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


    DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
    http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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    • Yea, not an insignificant amount of $. But, that's everything; wheel speed sensors, brake pressure sensors, lateral and yaw sensors, steering angle sensor, ABS module/unit, and completed harness with custom lengths I specify. I just need to route hard lines, power supply and figure out how to mount everything.

      And the S2000 pricing is hugely appealing for sure. I'm keeping the option on the table.

      AND, when do you want to come to a race??
      Core4 Motorsports
      CLICK HERE for Wilwood FSL6R Radial Bracket & Rear Wilwood BBK GROUP BUY
      S14 VQ AER Endurance Racing Team

      Comment


      • You pay for airfare - sure!
        '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


        DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
        http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

        Comment


        • Originally posted by Def View Post
          You pay for airfare - sure!
          ha! One day, bud...one day...

          MR2 road trip to Mid-Ohio
          Core4 Motorsports
          CLICK HERE for Wilwood FSL6R Radial Bracket & Rear Wilwood BBK GROUP BUY
          S14 VQ AER Endurance Racing Team

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          • The car has pace! work on the team driving!!! More TRACK TIME!!!!! MORE TRACK TIME! work on not wasting time in traffic and get it tuned. That engine is rich on the dyno the A/F should be flat but you need to be logging real time A/F on track!! so can make adjustments with fuel pressure at least. Are you logging fuel pressure now? You guys are doing GREAT WORK! keep it up!!!!!!!.
            www.nonamemotorsports.com

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            • A flat AFR is not necessarily what's needed - that's a byproduct of people tuning cars to a flat AFR. If you look at modern cars tuned from the factory, most show a sloping down AFR curve. While I'm sure some of that is removing the chance of a rich AFR affecting emissions/fuel economy testing, with today's powerful cars that's not really a concern.

              I think it's generally that the combustion time is linearly dropping with increased RPM, so you need a slightly richer mixture to make sure the leanest parts of the combustion chamber have the same AFR.

              Does it need a steep slope? Probably not, but it's likely a good idea to run a tad richer at 7k RPM vs. 3k RPM from everything I've seen.
              '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


              DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
              http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

              Comment


              • Originally posted by Hey DON View Post
                The car has pace! work on the team driving!!! More TRACK TIME!!!!! MORE TRACK TIME! work on not wasting time in traffic and get it tuned. That engine is rich on the dyno the A/F should be flat but you need to be logging real time A/F on track!! so can make adjustments with fuel pressure at least. Are you logging fuel pressure now? You guys are doing GREAT WORK! keep it up!!!!!!!.
                Thanks, Don! Really looking forward to the progress of your build for WRL. Can't wait to get some brakes on that beast and help you dominate.

                We'll be adding a couple of sensors to the logging for 2019. Fuel pressure is one of them, front and rear brake pressure, oil temp, and maybe steering angle sensor. All will be hopefully be shared over the Podium connect telemetry.



                As for AFR's, is flat AFR curve tuning just the nature of what FI port injection ICE's are happy at? That extra fuel is needed down low in high load situations of WOT, low rpm, high gear, peak boost.

                Core4 Motorsports
                CLICK HERE for Wilwood FSL6R Radial Bracket & Rear Wilwood BBK GROUP BUY
                S14 VQ AER Endurance Racing Team

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                • Generally there shouldn't be a huge difference in AFR requirements across the rev range for an ICE, and it should roughly equate to cylinder pressure. Low load cruise and idle can be ~15.3:1. ~45-55 kPa MAP should be getting to ~14.7:1, 100 kPa should be around 13-13.5:1. In boost you can get down to ~11.5:1 by ~7-10 psi. Linear interpolation between all points.


                  Most OEMs do have a bit of a slope on their AFR curves, with the higher RPM being richer. I've heard of that as a compensation for less time of the AFR mixture to swirl and distribute in the chamber to richen the leaner parts of it that tend to form due to less mixing. But even still, we're probably talking about going about 0.3 to 0.5 AFR richer from ~4k RPM to redline. I definitely wouldn't want things starting to trend leaner right towards redline.
                  '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                  DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                  http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

                  Comment


                  • Just wanted to share solution that I'm now offering for BMW E36 (all) and E46 (non-M) cars. Brand new OEM BMW front and rear wheel hubs precision machined to accept and installed with ARP press-in wheels studs. Like most German cars, BMW's come with lug bolts, which are a PITA to deal with when removing/installing wheels often. The ubiquitous thing to do for those who dedicate their cars to HPDE and/or track competition is to use "thread-in" conversion studs, not only for ease of servicing, but to use spacers.


                    Should be good, right? Not really...almost every single AER event a BMW will at least break one thread-in stud on a random corner of the car during a race and luckily people tend to find them before catastrophe. But, sometimes they don't and you get this (video of Mid-Ohio incident), which I was only seconds behind:

                    https://www.facebook.com/DriveFaster...c_location=ufi


                    As crazy as it seems, it isn't uncommon. Basically every brand (Turner, Bimmerworld, MSI, Apex, etc...) of conversion stud out there has been reported to break. It's a somewhat hotly debated topic (and we can get into here for the sake of keeping the forum active), but it's obviously an inferior interface to that of press-in studs. Typically other components break, like the wheel itself, before an ARP stud will fail. Failures of ARP wheel studs are almost unheard of.


                    So, I want to bring that peace of mind to BMW E36/46 owners with the ability to run up to 12mm to 20mm wheel spacers depending on which wheel stud is chosen. Also peace of mind for us when racing next to these guys!:







                    Website is still in progress and changing often. Cart will be active soon.

                    https://www.core4motorsports.com/pro...hub-conversion




                    Core4 Motorsports
                    CLICK HERE for Wilwood FSL6R Radial Bracket & Rear Wilwood BBK GROUP BUY
                    S14 VQ AER Endurance Racing Team

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                    • Starting to get ready to tear down. Because I'm getting old and tired, I bit the bullet and decided to give the quickjack a shot. The first lift:




                      Too early to give it a real verdict, but so far I'm digging it. Car is up ~20" with just using the larger of the rubber blocks the unit comes with and no extra effort to get more height out of it. With a little more effort, I'll easily be able to get it 25"+ out of it. These will be very nice when I do my DIY corner balancing and alignments.



                      Still need to decide on ABS setup as well. That will be made in the next couple of weeks.
                      ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------




                      Also, I've developed a rear BBK that fits aftermarket uprights that will be able to use the Z32 ebrake as an option. Requires no trimming/clearancing on the uprights. I know more than a few of you didn't bite on my previous kit because it didn't work with an ebrake and/or an aftermarket upright (or because no one actually gives a **** about S-chassis?? ) . This one does.

                      It also uses a better, stiffer caliper in the Wilwood FSL4R (relative to my previous rear BBK) which means if you're already running a FSL in the front, it uses the same pad shape and will improve the balance of your braking further than if you're running stock S/Z components. If you're not running an FSL6R front setup, I also have something in the works for that as well, all the way from budget minded to 14" floating rotor baller/high-HP-aero-builds. If you're interested in either, please email me at info@core4motorsports.com


                      GKTech rear upright:





                      Prototype rear rotor hat setup:

                      Core4 Motorsports
                      CLICK HERE for Wilwood FSL6R Radial Bracket & Rear Wilwood BBK GROUP BUY
                      S14 VQ AER Endurance Racing Team

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                      • Does the quick jack have an option for 12v to hook up to a running car's battery while at the track?

                        Do you have a eta of when you think the brake setup will available for purchase?

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by clotuning View Post
                          Does the quick jack have an option for 12v to hook up to a running car's battery while at the track?

                          Do you have a eta of when you think the brake setup will available for purchase?

                          They have them with 12V option. This one is 110V. Costco doesn't carry the 12V model and they have the cheapest price by far. I'm usually in garages at races anyway so there's always 110 available.


                          ETA of brake setup is 6-8 weeks.
                          Core4 Motorsports
                          CLICK HERE for Wilwood FSL6R Radial Bracket & Rear Wilwood BBK GROUP BUY
                          S14 VQ AER Endurance Racing Team

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                          • Hey guys, just want inform you that I've shifted focus onto Zilvia with this build thread. I'd rather focus mainly here, but this place is as active as a morgue lately. I'll continue to update here as much as I can.

                            Zilvia thread:

                            https://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=665738

                            Core4 Motorsports
                            CLICK HERE for Wilwood FSL6R Radial Bracket & Rear Wilwood BBK GROUP BUY
                            S14 VQ AER Endurance Racing Team

                            Comment


                            • In an effort to keep things alive here, here's my latest updates from Zilvia:


                              Planned upgrades for 2019 are:
                              • ABS
                                • Integrating AP1 S2000 ABS or E46 M3 ABS. My competition has a distinct advantage over me here, especially when it rains.
                              • Brake system optimization
                                • I mean stiffening everything and taking play out of the system short of going to a dual master, pedal box setup. Including ditching the Chasebays braided lines with hard-lines (need to re-line anyway for the ABS), stiffening the brake pedal firewall bracket, bracing the MC for firewall flex, and possibly further stiffening the front calipers
                              • Core4 V2 big brakes
                                • They will now be floating 2 piece design and larger diameter (332mm x 32mm front, 327mm x 21mm rear) and better rear caliper (FSL4R) than what's currently on car.
                              • Aero
                                • Going with the "wing for the masses" wing by ninelivesaero. https://9livesracing.com/. It's an extruded aluminum aerofoil and is half the price of CF composite wings and is all about function. Getting very popular in the road race community. I will make my own uprights since my trunk is just a skin and has no structure.
                              • 3.9 ring and pinion
                                • Basically splitting the difference between the stock 4.08 and the currently in the car 3.69. The 3.69 worked well at a huge track like Watkins, but more turns than not the car was lugging a touch to low.



                              I'd say the car will easily be 1.5 seconds/minute faster per lap. Stay tuned....
                              Core4 Motorsports
                              CLICK HERE for Wilwood FSL6R Radial Bracket & Rear Wilwood BBK GROUP BUY
                              S14 VQ AER Endurance Racing Team

                              Comment


                              • As for ABS, some interesting developments.

                                Firstly, the AP1 ABS is 3-channel, which I incorrectly assumed was 4-channel. It's a much better 3 channel than the stock S chassis or any 90's Nissan stuff, but still 3 channel.

                                Here's the control flow of the AP1:


                                You can see that the rear corner slip rates are compared and then one chosen that is determined to be slipping then a single control drives both rear corner solenoids simultaneously. Regardless, it's an easy solution to a newer generation ABS that S2000 guys generally really have nothing bad to say about.


                                BUT, because I like to trail blaze and I want EBD in my car, I'm finding out the AP2 (version 2, from 2006-2008. Version 1 AP2 from 2004-2005 is the same as AP1 ABS) is insanely similar to the BMW MK60 system. To the point that they use the same ATE ABS module and control unit. The harness connection on the module is identical.

                                The only difference in their respective wiring diagrams is that the MK60 unit uses two external pressure sensors where the AP2 seems to have them internal to the unit. Everything else from how it handles the stability control inputs to the brake pedal switch and wheel speed sensors seems to be identical, to the point of being on the same pins.

                                These are both CAN based units that have their own brain in the module. The MK60 ABS unit is well documented to be able to work without CAN communication retrofitted in other chassis. Everyone is always quick to say that the AP2 won't work in other chassis because it's CAN based. If MK60 works outside of it's native CAN home, the AP2 ABS will also. There's nothing to suggest that it won't.


                                BMW MK60 ABS module harness connection:



                                AP2 S2000 AP2 connection:



                                I'm moving forward on it AP2 stuff.
                                Core4 Motorsports
                                CLICK HERE for Wilwood FSL6R Radial Bracket & Rear Wilwood BBK GROUP BUY
                                S14 VQ AER Endurance Racing Team

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