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200sx RS13 "GT3" never ending story.........

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  • 200sx RS13 "GT3" never ending story.........

    Friend at work asked to see photos fo my project. Didnīt have anything on public forums so time to do a write up. I will link this to few people without nissan knowledge so some things might be taken for granted for people in this forum.

    Iīll start from the beginning......

    In 2004 started looking for a sporty car and one day cheap euro 200sx s13 with ca18det 169hp caught my eye. Ad reported that the car had begun to show blue smoke from the exhaust and because of that had big price drop. My car experience was limited to spark plugs and airfilter change but I knew from internet surfing that blue smoke from exhaust points to broken turbo.

    Turbo is an external component. Just open some bolts and swap a new one. I can do that! Off to see the car. During testdrive car exhibited knocking sound that I assumed coming from the bad turbo. After some price negoating bought the car.

    Seller delivered the car with an trailer and I put it in my parents garage. Exited about the car started reading 200sx related forums. Soon found out that my knocking sound symptoms are exactly like when engine bearings are gone. I was looking at engine rebuild.

    Studied internet engine overhaul projects and with the help of service manual I teared the engine down. Around this time found a topic about sr20det swap to s13. Instead of rebuilding the ca18det decided to go sr20det.

    Hereīs the car when I got it. Rust free unmodified example. Only damage was dent in rear quaterpanel behind rear wheel.

    Last edited by Logic; 10-24-2015, 05:46 AM.

  • #2
    Rebuild begins...

    Bought an damaged sr20det because I wanted to build one with upgraded parts any way. It had melted a piston in one cylinder that left deep mark. Darton linerkit replaced the thin stock liners. Darton liners are beefier so the block can handle more power and make it possible to bore the cylinders up to 90mm giving displacement of 2.2 from 2.0. I had to keep the stock bore since there were not any good 90mm head gasket available at the time.


    Eagle rods and forged CP pistons.


    Greddy metal headgasket and arp headbolts. Crankshaft got checked and polished. Block was decked with the front cover. New nissan oem bearings were installed. Oil pump was just a little out of spec and the rotors were replaced.


    ACT supelight flywheel 4,6kg. Stock is about 12kg if I remember correctly. Clutch ACT organic with heavyest pressure.

    Last edited by Logic; 04-09-2015, 11:19 PM.

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    • #3
      Took the head to a specialist. He ported the head and modified intake runners slightly.


      Valveseats were machined to flow more.


      Supertech +1mm oversize valves. Exhaust inconel and intake black nitrated.





      BC titanium retainers and stiffer valvesprings. MBV solid solid lifters. Bronze valveguides were installed. Head should be able to handle 9000rpm and more. Measured and adjusted valve clearances.

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      • #4
        Rebuild done and engine went in.



        Car ready to be approved for the engine swap by authorities. Needs to be done to get the car street leagal. Any visible tuning parts such as big intercoolers, turbos etc. Are forbidden. This check-up is done once a year.


        After car was deemed roadworthy was time to beging modifications. Greddy knock off intakemanifold. It changes the engine characteristics giving more top end but loses low end torque. Ebay front mount intercooler with greddy boost pipes. Injectors nismo 740cc. With the staggered intercooler/radiator setup engine temps were noticeable higher because the intercooler blocked the radiator.




        Exhaust all the way 3” stainless ebay stuff. Had only one muffler at the end. It was LOUD!!!

        Last edited by Logic; 05-21-2015, 12:54 PM.

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        • #5
          For shocks I got apex perfomance coilovers.


          After lowering the camber angle at the rear was little too much so got adjustable camber arms. Also got the 5 bolt hub conversion.



          Used wheels and tyres from Skyline oem R34 GTR wheels. 18X9 front and rear. Wheels are quite light at 9kg.

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          • #6
            Wheels installed. Car was quite loud with ebay exhaust. Sounded quite epic when on boost but for normal driving too uncomftroble. The solid lifters made the car sound like a diesel volvo when cruising.




            Car was mapped and dynoed. Got 282hv ja 345Nm at 0.8 bar of boost.



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            • #7
              Didnīt get to do much drivin after the dyno. Throttlebody axel snapped in half. One bolt got loose but I found it in the IACV valve. Not sure what caused it. There is some speculating over the internet but nothing definitive But I did not trust it to replace with stock so I went with Q45 which is notiaceably beefer.


              To fit the q45 throttlebody had new flange welded to my intakemanifold.


              Upgraded cams to tomei 270 procams.


              Guy from work welded greddy dump valve flange to my boost pipe. Welding wasnīt pretty but I guess you get what you pay for. This was one bottle of booze. Any way it was back to road.

              Last edited by Logic; 03-28-2015, 01:07 PM.

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              • #8
                Watching top gear episode ferrari 360 scuderia vs 996 GT3 left an impact on me. Wanted to build my car to that direction. Lightweight racing car for the streets.

                First got used momo seats and willans 6-point harness.


                At this point I needed to buy a welder. After convincing my dad that the Argon gas bottle wasnt going to explode and destroy the house bought china DC tig from ebay. Then watched some welding tutorials and was ready to get to work.


                First job was to get rid of the catalytic converter hump to get momo seat to sit low enough. Didnīt have much patience to practice and went straight to work. This is pretty much my first welding.


                Seat attachments. Rules state 20x40x2,5 but local harwarestore had 40x40x3 bar, so went beefier.


                At some point rollcage came into picture. Was more after chassy stiffness than safety but learned to appreciate the safety aspect later. Some videos of s13 roof caving in accidents had that effect. Ordered ready bent 8-point rollcage. Had to cut, fit and weld it in place.







                Last edited by Logic; 08-21-2015, 10:27 AM.

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                • #9
                  Iīve always used photoshop to test visual modifications and just play around with cars. I made countless different variations for my s13. Mostly I preferred the s15 front on s13 but I also thought there were possibility of something cool with s13 and fixed headlights.

                  There were some aftermarket options but I didnīt like them. I was thinking that the problem was that they were confied to stock lamp dimensions and placement. I experimented with 300zx, dodge stealth and few other lights but rx7 aftermarket headlights looked best to me.

                  This is the photoshop that got the ball rolling.


                  Bought origin stylish style front bumper and some generic skirts and rear bumper. Lights c-west rx7. Also found cheap oem style fiberglass hood I bought for cutting and experimenting.


                  Construction urethane to fill gap. Noticed that polyester resin melts this urethane so couldnīt apply fiberglass straight over it.


                  I put bondo over urethane and sanded it.


                  First look to see roughly how itīs gonna look.



                  In my photoshops without the bonnet vent the hood looked little plain and it needed something. I thought of making a vent there.

                  Always liked this hood on s13 and this is what I was after. Seemed fairly simple desing. Just cut, lift and glass it.







                  Last edited by Logic; 08-21-2015, 10:29 AM.

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                  • #10
                    Little hard to see from these pictures but the center section between hood and front bumper was too low compared to the area infront headlights. I had to bring the tip of the hood an the frontbumper middle section up.

                    Brought the tip of the hood up but instead of bringing the front bumper up I pulled it little bit lower. I was wondering how it might look with lexus LFA air intake.




                    Ok. Didnīt like LFA air intake.

                    Also after lotīs of work the front section of the hood got really flat and one dimensional. Plus I didnīt like where the hood vent was going overall. So I scrapped it and continued work with stock oem hood. Lot of work wasted but had to be done.



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                    • #11
                      The hood vent still haunted me. In my very first photoshop the hood vent made it complete visually. I also got interested more and more in aredodynamics and a hood vent would be very beneficial for engine temps and aerodynamics. What I learned from previous hood vent operation that I am not good creating stuff from scratch. But cut and glue I can do. I ordered steel vent.

                      Cut a hole in the hood and the vent sat on the contours of the hood nicely.


                      Some spot welds. Got rid of the center support in the vent.


                      Bondo


                      Sprayed some paint

                      Last edited by Logic; 08-21-2015, 10:37 AM.

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                      • #12
                        S13 rear quaters look bit plain and flat. The +50mm rear quaters are little too much for my taste but 30mm are more subtle but still give nice shape. Bought +30mm rear over fenders


                        Cut the fenders to make room for tyres and extended a lip to meet the fiberglass fender.


                        Glued them on with epoxy laminate.


                        Bondo time!


                        Base paint and waxed. Ready to be molded.


                        First time taking a mold. I guess mistakes were bound to happend. The mold was too thin so the support structure showed in the final product. There were some damage caused by airpockets that I had to fix later. The mold also got stuck to the plug little.



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                        • #13
                          Took also mold from hood and front bumper. My problems of mold sticking to the plug resumed and caused hood and front bumper destruction. Allthough most of the front bumper damage was caused because I accidently used too much hardener on the gelcoat. Naturally when it started to harden prematurely I panicked and hurryed to applye faster it instead just throwing it away. Result was quite extensive hairline cracks. Was able to save the molds but it took lotīs of work. I later started using pva combined mold wax and fixed my sticking problems.

                          Damaged and fixed molds ready for paint. The light areas are bondo where there were hairline crack or ripped gelcoat.




                          Fixed and painted molds






                          Hood support structure


                          Freshly baked parts. The hood was done still with just mold wax and it stuck a bit. After that I started using PVA and had no more problems.






                          Parts cleaned and time for test fit.



                          Last edited by Logic; 03-28-2015, 04:24 PM.

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                          • #14
                            I have had some plans for the rear also. I wanted to have rear diffuser and symmetrical exhaust desing. The standard big cannon exiting left side was not to my linking. First photoshops was sheet metal diffuser with small incline. Similar desing thatīs used in real racing car. Cheap and functinal.


                            However I could not make it work. Didnīt like the look of the rear.

                            My second route was ferrari style diffuser. Thought of trying to make one myself but just the shape of it I knew It would take a lot of work and most likely fail. In the end I found 430 replica diffuser from ebay for a resonable price.


                            First test fit


                            I liked the look of it. The rear looked nice but I thought it could look better if the rear bumper continued straight on the sides instead of overlapping the rearquater by the bottom.

                            So I glued the new rear quaters on and cut them. Then attached the rear quater piece to the rear bumper. Also bought awesome looking used kouki tail lights.








                            Diffuser held on with tupperware. Not the final height.

                            Last edited by Logic; 03-28-2015, 04:53 PM.

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                            • #15
                              Rear diffuser at itīs final height and attachments done. Problem was there was no more room for license plate in the rear bumper.


                              It had to move to the rear garnish panel.



                              You might notice the fender gap on the first photo on this reply. I was thinking whether keep stock front fender or go with the F40 vented style. The aerodynamic advantages weighed heavily on the decision. The vent would release built up pressure in the wheel housing improving aerodynamics.

                              I decided to do them. Basically I just cut it open at top and welded piece of sheet metal in the gap. Last phase was to apply lead over it. I tend to have too little patience when welding so the fender had a little party and fender gap twisted. Fixed that with bondo. I will take mold of these as well so doesnīt matter.




                              As a desing feature I will get rid of the side streak/slash/mould(what ever itīs called). Also donīt like the sideskirt overlapping fenders so I cut off the end piece.

                              Last edited by Logic; 08-21-2015, 10:40 AM.

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