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2_Liter_Turbo's New Project - 1996 240SX SE

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  • Originally posted by Matt93SE View Post
    If you track the car and aren't going dry sump, then an Accusump is definitely a good move. it may not help, but it absolutely won't hurt.
    Yeah, I'll be racing in TT1 with Nasa. My goal is to start heading towards GTA as well in the limited RWD class.

    www.2LiterTurbo.com (Personal Site)
    96 240SX SE: Track Car | 90 Skyline GTR: Bucket List Car | 07 Legacy Spec B: The DD

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    • Those are some baller parts. Is the throttle body the 82mm Bosch? I'm thinking about going to one of the Bosch Motorsport TBs with some shorter intercooler pipe routing in the future. The 82mm unit seems to be the most commonly used by far but it's overkill big IMO for a forced induction setup. I'd never run cold side IC pipes in 3.25". There are some smaller options like 74mm and 68 mm but I haven't seen any bolt on Wiggins flanges etc for them like there are for the 82mm. Anyways, interested to see results. What pedal will you use?

      I've thought about the cd7 also... My Stack works well but the cd7 has so much capability and with the Infinity running the show it's a no brainer.

      Any links to Nitto oil pump info?

      What's your new daily?
      ~1992 240SX, SR20/Koni track day car
      ~2016 M3, daily driver

      Comment


      • Originally posted by turtl631 View Post
        Those are some baller parts. Is the throttle body the 82mm Bosch? I'm thinking about going to one of the Bosch Motorsport TBs with some shorter intercooler pipe routing in the future. The 82mm unit seems to be the most commonly used by far but it's overkill big IMO for a forced induction setup. I'd never run cold side IC pipes in 3.25". There are some smaller options like 74mm and 68 mm but I haven't seen any bolt on Wiggins flanges etc for them like there are for the 82mm. Anyways, interested to see results. What pedal will you use?

        I've thought about the cd7 also... My Stack works well but the cd7 has so much capability and with the Infinity running the show it's a no brainer.

        Any links to Nitto oil pump info?

        What's your new daily?
        I believe it is, it's the same unit off the GT3. It's slightly bigger than my current application really needs, but I think it'll work out fine. I haven't decided on which pedal to use yet, but after looking at a few, the Subaru Impreza or BRZ pedals look like decent fits. But open to suggestion if anyone have done DBW already, lol. I don't have any links other than the couple facebook posts from Nitto. As soon as I know more info, I can post it.

        I'm also debating building a new bottom end for the engine since my pistons won't work anyways. Since I'm restricted in HP, thinking of doing a 91mm stroker with K20 rods (to help with the rod angle), but still on the fence as what to do. I could do H22 rods to get a nice rod ratio, but I'd have to keep the stock crank to do that.

        And the new daily is an '07 Legacy Spec B. Wanted something a bit safer for the new kid on the way that wasn't super boring to drive, lol.

        www.2LiterTurbo.com (Personal Site)
        96 240SX SE: Track Car | 90 Skyline GTR: Bucket List Car | 07 Legacy Spec B: The DD

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        • I'd probably keep it simple and stick with stock crank, with a ve head and a 7163 you will already have great spool and response. Not sure what your budget is for this thing but there's so much possibility for scope creep with engine builds...


          Oh yes, you had mentioned the Legacy in another thread. That's a neat car, I just wish the ej25 was less of a POS. I hope yours doesn't give you any grief.
          ~1992 240SX, SR20/Koni track day car
          ~2016 M3, daily driver

          Comment


          • Originally posted by turtl631 View Post
            I'd probably keep it simple and stick with stock crank, with a ve head and a 7163 you will already have great spool and response. Not sure what your budget is for this thing but there's so much possibility for scope creep with engine builds...


            Oh yes, you had mentioned the Legacy in another thread. That's a neat car, I just wish the ej25 was less of a POS. I hope yours doesn't give you any grief.
            Yeah, I'm keeping the DD pretty mild. Just did some reliability mods and a conservative tune and leaving it. Just doing some suspension and brake work so I can take it to the track while I wait for the race car to finish, lol. Made a conservative 248hp/311tq @ 16psi. Good enough, I want to keep the ring lands in-tact! LOL.

            As for the SR, yeah, scope creep always happens, lol.

            www.2LiterTurbo.com (Personal Site)
            96 240SX SE: Track Car | 90 Skyline GTR: Bucket List Car | 07 Legacy Spec B: The DD

            Comment


            • Originally posted by 2_Liter_Turbo View Post
              Also grabbed an ECU master's PMU unit with button pad to run all the power circuits on the car.
              Did yo get the ECU Master PMU16 or PMU16-DL, I'm not sure the difference. Did you decide to go with the 6 or 12 button board too? I have been thinking of going this route.
              First 300ZX to break 500whp on the Stock Turbo/Stock Long Block, boost only, no meth.
              Currently building sub-2800# 300zx Twin BW 6258 EFR, AMB Aero, TA-U & Road Race Car.

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              • Originally posted by induetime View Post

                Did yo get the ECU Master PMU16 or PMU16-DL, I'm not sure the difference. Did you decide to go with the 6 or 12 button board too? I have been thinking of going this route.
                I got the DL & 12 button. Not sure what the DL is off hand though, ha ha.

                www.2LiterTurbo.com (Personal Site)
                96 240SX SE: Track Car | 90 Skyline GTR: Bucket List Car | 07 Legacy Spec B: The DD

                Comment


                • No major progress yet (Still working on other projects), but a couple more parts came in, lol.

                  Hypertune intake manifold/fuel rail for the VE head with a Bosch GT3 DBW throttle body. Not sure if I should coat or powder the plenum or not. I definitely want to clean it up a little though.






                  www.2LiterTurbo.com (Personal Site)
                  96 240SX SE: Track Car | 90 Skyline GTR: Bucket List Car | 07 Legacy Spec B: The DD

                  Comment


                  • You'd be crazy to powdercoat that thing. Let the fab bling shine.
                    '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                    DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                    http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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                    • I'm with Def. Preserve that finish!
                      Core4 Motorsports
                      CLICK HERE for Wilwood FSL6R Radial Bracket & Rear Wilwood BBK GROUP BUY
                      S14 VQ AER Endurance Racing Team

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                      • BTW - people do it all the time, but avoid powdercoating heat treatable aluminums. Frequently temperatures are used which cause strength issues.
                        '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                        DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                        http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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                        • Thats a very nice looking manifold.
                          It looks that it comes with an adapter for a vanjen sort of clamp for the TB?

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by Def View Post
                            BTW - people do it all the time, but avoid powdercoating heat treatable aluminums. Frequently temperatures are used which cause strength issues.

                            The industry/company I work in powder-coats welded, heat treatable aluminum alloy assemblies where human safety is of concern all the time. These are assemblies that are required to be artificially aged (400F for 8+ hours) after welding to bring the heat affected zone back to the base temper. The duration and temperature used in a powder-coat process shouldn't affect the strength of the material.
                            Core4 Motorsports
                            CLICK HERE for Wilwood FSL6R Radial Bracket & Rear Wilwood BBK GROUP BUY
                            S14 VQ AER Endurance Racing Team

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by gills View Post


                              The industry/company I work in powder-coats welded, heat treatable aluminum alloy assemblies where human safety is of concern all the time. These are assemblies that are required to be artificially aged (400F for 8+ hours) after welding to bring the heat affected zone back to the base temper. The duration and temperature used in a powder-coat process shouldn't affect the strength of the material.
                              I've seen the aging temp be more like 350 F, which most powder coat processes exceed, and you need a high temperature solution treatment before the aging to actually hit T6 properties. You can age up the HAZ area to roughly T4 conditions with going straight to an age bake like you mentioned, but you're going to affect T6 base material with that approach as well.

                              If you take a sheet of 6061-T6, and bake it at ~425-450 F for say 30-45 mins, I guarantee it'll come out at least than T6 properties. You can't just expose heat treatable aluminums to high temps and get no effect. Typical max service conditions before strength can take a noticeable permanent change is just 200 deg F, and above 250 F the time is reduced to a fairly short duration.
                              '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                              DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                              http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by Def View Post

                                I've seen the aging temp be more like 350 F, which most powder coat processes exceed, and you need a high temperature solution treatment before the aging to actually hit T6 properties. You can age up the HAZ area to roughly T4 conditions with going straight to an age bake like you mentioned, but you're going to affect T6 base material with that approach as well.

                                If you take a sheet of 6061-T6, and bake it at ~425-450 F for say 30-45 mins, I guarantee it'll come out at least than T6 properties. You can't just expose heat treatable aluminums to high temps and get no effect. Typical max service conditions before strength can take a noticeable permanent change is just 200 deg F, and above 250 F the time is reduced to a fairly short duration.

                                That's correct if you start with T6 prior to welding. We start with T4 condition material and with only a post weld artificial age process the HAZ and base metal are brought to T6 conditions.

                                You can hold common wrought T6 temper alloys at 350 for 10 hours with less than 5% loss in strength. 30 minutes at 400F. 5 minutes at 450F (all per AWS Structural Welding Code for Aluminum). I'm not 100% certain, but I don't think powder coating temperatures exceed 350-400F otherwise my company wouldn't be able to provide our product as is.

                                Also, considering I just powder coated my race wheels, which are most likely some heat treatable silicon-magnesium cast aluminum alloy, they better not be held at temperatures above 400F during the process


                                -----------------------------------------

                                And sorry for the derail, 2_Liter_Turbo.
                                Last edited by gills; 10-11-2018, 12:40 PM.
                                Core4 Motorsports
                                CLICK HERE for Wilwood FSL6R Radial Bracket & Rear Wilwood BBK GROUP BUY
                                S14 VQ AER Endurance Racing Team

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