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Question about my S14 rear LCA...

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  • Question about my S14 rear LCA...

    So I was looking at my susp yesterday. My passenger side rear LCA has a small issue.

    The part that attaches to the knuckle, right below were it bolts up there is a small rubber "pillow". This pillow is cracked open. :S

    Is it a big deal? Can I replace just the "pillow" thing? Anyone know where I can get one?

    Thanks in advance guys. I am quite aware that this is a very noob question...

  • #2
    not sure what it does since the RLCA should just twist radially, but i don't see why a rubber washer from Lowe's can't replace it.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by Chrisw View Post
      So I was looking at my susp yesterday. My passenger side rear LCA has a small issue.

      The part that attaches to the knuckle, right below were it bolts up there is a small rubber "pillow". This pillow is cracked open. :S

      Is it a big deal? Can I replace just the "pillow" thing? Anyone know where I can get one?

      Thanks in advance guys. I am quite aware that this is a very noob question...
      I believe what you're seeing is a cracked "boot" that holds grease around the ball-joint. It's molded onto the ball joint and non-replaceable. If you check the dealer, they will only sell you the whole LCA with the ball-joint already installed. Here's the secret they won't tell you; The S14 front ball joint is exactly the same as the rear and can be purchased separately. You can change it your self if you're up to it, or just purchase one and take it to a mechanic to change it out for you.

      Don Johnson (really!)
      Just so you know.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by djsilver View Post
        I believe what you're seeing is a cracked "boot" that holds grease around the ball-joint. It's molded onto the ball joint and non-replaceable. If you check the dealer, they will only sell you the whole LCA with the ball-joint already installed. Here's the secret they won't tell you; The S14 front ball joint is exactly the same as the rear and can be purchased separately. You can change it your self if you're up to it, or just purchase one and take it to a mechanic to change it out for you.

        That is exactly what it is!! Thanks man!! I'll see what I can do to fix it but I have a track event coming up next week and doubt I'll get it done by then. Am I ok to track with this thing cracked??

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Chrisw View Post
          That is exactly what it is!! Thanks man!! I'll see what I can do to fix it but I have a track event coming up next week and doubt I'll get it done by then. Am I ok to track with this thing cracked??
          It's probably OK if the ball-joint isn't damaged.

          1. Jack the rear up and put it on jackstands.
          2. Remove the tire on the side in question.
          3. Place a jack under the RLCA/Knuckle and compress the suspension slightly while observing for play in the ball-joint. (You may have to repeat this step a few times to be sure of what you're seeing.)

          If it's not sloppy or showing rusty grit oozing out of the cracked boot you should be OK until you can get it replaced.
          Don Johnson (really!)
          Just so you know.

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          • #6
            what if it has something oozing out but it's not rusty? There is that grey/tan greese coming out of it I think... Is that ok?

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            • #7
              grease is fine as long as there's no play in the joint. that rubber boot is simply there to hold the grease in and dirt out of the joint. when the boot tears, it takes months/years for the joint to fail after that, but it eventually will fail. best thing to do is to replace the boot (They're about $5 each at the parts store and they sell universal ones that fit), but if you don't have time then you can just run with it and change it next week. It'll be fine till then.

              For the time you've spent in this thread, you could have changed the boot. just jack up the car, pop the ball joint out of the rear knuckle, remove the old boot, install new one, bolt ball joint back into place. probably 10-15 min per side at most.

              it's really not a big deal at all.
              Originally posted by SoSideways
              I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
              '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
              '96 240SX- The Track Toy

              Comment


              • #8
                sorry for my post (#2) i couldn't read. I was thinking of the rubber washer thing at the rear inner pivot point.

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                • #9
                  The Energy Suspension poly replacement boots are pretty cheap too. AutoZone has em on the shelf too so you can't really lose.
                  Originally posted by Matt93SE
                  in engrish, it's all about the length of your shaft... :P

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                  • #10
                    Ok, well I actually took Matt's advice... but I'm stuck

                    I managed to take off the two bolts on the subframe, remove the nut from by the knuckle... and now I can't seem to get the LCA to drip from the knuckle. It's difficult to hammer on becuase the axel is in the way. Any tips on getting this out/down??

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                    • #11
                      A) ball-joint separator
                      B) Leave the nut on the ball-joint but make it flush with the top of the stud, then try to get a punch on it.
                      Originally posted by Matt93SE
                      in engrish, it's all about the length of your shaft... :P

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Don't beat on the ball joint threads- you'll ruin them.
                        strike the side of the socket (the bottom of the knuckle that holds the ball joint), and that will deform the taper.. after a handful of whacks, the ball joint will pop loose.

                        it helps to have some downward force on the ball joint at the same time. if you can have a helper pull down on it or you put afoot on the LCA while you're doing it, that helps to know when it's loose.
                        Originally posted by SoSideways
                        I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
                        '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
                        '96 240SX- The Track Toy

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Just did this last weekend. with a blunt item (i used an 3/4 extension and a metal hammer) hammer HARD on sides of the knuckle where it is pressed in. I had mine off the acle as i was replacing the uprights and this was easy for me. next you threat the bolt back on a little, so you don't bugger the threads and give the top of the ball joint a HARD hit, the shock should pop it off. If not repeat, and don't be shy with the spank when swinging the hammer. worked like a charm on both mine.

                          same as what they said above, but in more detail.

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                          • #14
                            A friend of mine got it out!!

                            So now I have ONE other question... I have to reinstall both my passenger side frog and rear LCAs... When tightening the nut once I push it through the knuckle, it squishes the rubber housing for the ball joint. This is ok I assume? Without a torque wrench how do I know how tight to make the nut??

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Chrisw View Post
                              A friend of mine got it out!!

                              So now I have ONE other question... I have to reinstall both my passenger side frog and rear LCAs... When tightening the nut once I push it through the knuckle, it squishes the rubber housing for the ball joint. This is ok I assume? Without a torque wrench how do I know how tight to make the nut??
                              That's fine, it's just pulling the the tapered part up into the knuckle.

                              How tight? How about almost 1-man, 1-wrench tight ;-) Just stop at a spot where you can get the cotter pin back in.
                              Don Johnson (really!)
                              Just so you know.

                              Comment

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