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Another 400 whp CodyAce Built Car...JWT vs Enthalpy ECU comparison results inside!

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  • Another 400 whp CodyAce Built Car...JWT vs Enthalpy ECU comparison results inside!

    JWT vs Enthalpy ECU comparison dyno results!! Another 400 whp CodyAce Built Car


    Finally managed to get my buddies car on the dyno today. While we were
    interested in the power it made, we also both finally wanted to see a direct comparison between the two major ECU Rom Tuners that support our SR20 cars, Jim Wolf Technolgy and RS Enthalpy. We have been running the car on both without ANY issue. Both get great MPG, both the tires off in 2nd gear, and both function just as OEM. Dont get me wrong, Standalones are cool and functional, but at the end of the day this is a Street Car -- and gets street parts.

    Now before this turns into a mud slinging contest, it is not what I set this out to be. Enthalpy and JWT are BOTH top notch tuners, and both are two excellent sources for out of the box, turn key tunes that make kickass power while remaining livable and economical. I would hesistate for a MOMENT to suggest either of them, as I personally have had great results with both companies.

    RUN AND LOG FILES (Thank you SoapGun!) http://driftwolrd.com/r/dynoandlogfiles.zip

    VIDEO http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RMuyXATr0Cc

    Car Specs:
    HP: 403 WHP
    Torque: 323 Ft Lbs

    Engine Specs:
    SR20DET, 8.5:1 Compression, 86mm (stock bore/compression)
    Built bottom end with CP Pistons, Stock Rods, Built by Cody Ace)
    GT2871r .64 (T2 exhaust housing)
    Jim Wolf Technology S3 Cams
    Jim Wolf Technology ECU
    Freddy Intake Manifold
    Extrude Hone and Swained Exhaust Manifold, and Turbo
    External Wastegate
    3" exhaust
    3" Inlet with Z32 MAF
    72lb MSD's
    (and all other associated parts)
    Traps 120mph as well

    I backed the car on, I got the computer ready to log, and we unlocked the brake. Ran the Enthalpy ECU at 10 psi, and then at 20 psi. Turned it off. Changed ECU's. And ran it again. Same conditions. The results are close, but it's evident that in this particular case the JWT ecu wins. Dyno RUn Files available upon PM, as well as Log Files from Datascan.

    Results:

    20psi
    AFR: 11.8 to 12.0
    Enthalpy: 381 HP / 310 Ft lbs
    JWT: 400 HP/323 ft lbs

    10psi:
    AFR: 12.5ish for both
    Enthalpy: 274 HP / 220 ft lbs
    JWT: 279 HP/223 ft lbs

    It's evident that at 10 psi, the differences are negligable, probably credited to the dyno itself. The results remain the same across all correction factors as well, but we like uncorrected to give a base number. STD showed the highest figures.

    At 20 psi however, we were really surprised. The JWT ECU made nearly 20 more hp peak, and had a stronger powerband throughot. We were VERY happy with this. It's a damn near copy of my s14's setup (minus a few parts) and (go figure) the car makes similar power.

    Graphs:
    10 psi run on top, 20 psi run on bottom (Enthalpy Blue, JWT Red)

    10psi


    20psi




    "Not bad" for a Junkyard Car

    I'm not sure about you guys, but this car certainly doesn't look like its' got anymore than abotu 100 whp lol. I love it.






    All in all, it was a nice day...one, because yet again I've got a 2871r car that I built at 400 whp level, and secondly, we finally got to test both of our ECU's out to see which one worked best right out of the box. Now with this said, I would love to send Martin and Clark the log files respectively to get a 'net reflash' to compare them again, as it would be interesting to see what there is 'left' in both tunes. We all can agree that an off the shelf tune from either is going to be conservative, just for safety sake...nobody wants the reputation of making HP, but melting pistons ya know?

    FWIW: JWT S3 cams are the single best cams you can buy for T2/stock manifold cars. Most power, best graphs, and cheapest (as you don't need valvesprings). I don't care what anyone says, until I get a car that dynos differently, I'm going to stick by my guns.


    As before, Dyno Run files and NissanDataScan Run files available via PM.
    Last edited by CodyAce; 04-18-2010, 07:32 PM.
    'Slicks on a car show me you care - broken axles show me you're trying'
    [I]Nitrous Rental Cars - Turbo Festivas - Vehicular Lunacy[/I]
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  • #2
    I've been wanting to see this exact comparison, thank you for sharing.

    Comment


    • #3
      Awesome job man.
      In Zipties We Trust....

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      • #4
        What are the injector used and at what fuel pressure?

        But it seems that your friend is better off with the enthalpy at 10 psi :P

        Oh and doing it your self by salvaging some roms online,reading and having the chip burner isn't that more expensive

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        • #5
          Very cool. Just looks like enthaply is less agressive. Compare the differences of a retune, how much and how fast can each get it done? Is JWT paying you?

          I'm interested to see what my C1's will do soon. the main difference will be the extrude hone exhaust and standalone.

          either way i highly doubt it will change your S3, ecu, and extrude hone preachings. hahaha

          Most PM answers: F 17X9 +22, R 17X9 +35

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by WorkInProgressK View Post
            What are the injector used and at what fuel pressure?
            72 lb MSD Injectors, both at 3 bar setting.

            Originally posted by WorkInProgressK View Post
            Oh and doing it your self by salvaging some roms online,reading and having the chip burner isn't that more expensive
            (I really don't understand what you're saying haha)
            I don't have any chip burner...in fact I'm glad I don't I'm sure I woulda blown my car up now if I did. I like the ROM tune as I keep my hands off hehe.



            Originally posted by Your Mom View Post
            Very cool. Just looks like enthaply is less agressive. Compare the differences of a retune, how much and how fast can each get it done? Is JWT paying you?
            I wish JWT was paying me considering how much I've spent there (both in my Turbo Altima, my S14, and in friends cars). Unfortunatly with such a small company it just doesnt' work that way. Free shipping usually is all I get.

            Actually timing up top is mroe agreesive on the Enthalpy one as well (23/24) versus the JWT at 20/21. Base timing set at 15* as well, verified with light and timing mode.

            Originally posted by WorkInProgressK View Post
            I'm interested to see what my C1's will do soon. the main difference will be the extrude hone exhaust and standalone.
            I freakin love C1 cams. Someday I'll build a real track car that can rev high and REALLY use the C1 cams to their potential hehe.
            'Slicks on a car show me you care - broken axles show me you're trying'
            [I]Nitrous Rental Cars - Turbo Festivas - Vehicular Lunacy[/I]
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            • #7
              I am certainly trying to work out a 'reflash' dyno as well. Getting dyno time isn't an issue, just getting both chips here is.

              With that said, I really need to work on adapting a map sensor to the wideband/logworks to get some pretty cool boost/rpm readings for the logs hehe. I could always borrow one from a honda buddy though, but I hate borrowing stuff.
              'Slicks on a car show me you care - broken axles show me you're trying'
              [I]Nitrous Rental Cars - Turbo Festivas - Vehicular Lunacy[/I]
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              • #8
                Lol I was talking about making a frankin-Rom. Bits and pieces from different rom and modify them to suit your likings

                One of my cars is running on a PLMS daughter-board with roms that I burned. It isn't tuned, but the speed limiter is removed. It was my priority for my week-end at Mosport.

                Basically with 300$ you can start tuning by your self.

                by the way 72lb translate to how many cc's?

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                • #9
                  roughly 740cc equivelent

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                  • #10
                    The JWT ECU made more power at less timing and the Enthalpy ECU wasn't knocking? Doesn't make sense, as I've always seen these engines gain power until they start knocking on pump gas.
                    '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


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                    • #11
                      Is it possible that there is another factor affecting the value you are getting in your log. like how the ecu does the math and what you see. Like enthapy sets his knock map to a lower value, and sets ignition to 23 but whats actually happening is its seeing some knock and retarding ignition but your still seeing 23 degrees.

                      or same sanerio for jwt.

                      I guess are you sure the ignition value your getting is actual what your seeing at the crank

                      Most PM answers: F 17X9 +22, R 17X9 +35

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                      • #12
                        Yea, I'm thinking something is up if you're logging ignition timing and less timing is yielding quite a bit more power.

                        On another note - never EVER do dyno pulls with smoothing at 5. It's worthless when looking at the power delivery and seeing what is going on with the timing. Smoothing of 1, maybe 2 is the highest I'd ever go. Smoothing 0 is best for tuning and looking at tunes.
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                        DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
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                        • #13
                          FWIW, I have seen another direct comparison on FreshAlloy ages ago where the JWT made less power than the Enthalpy. I think they seem to be pretty comparable.

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                          • #14
                            Dumb question: why the low torque numbers? (ie what is that a function of?).

                            My car makes 340/300 @ 14psi on a 2876r, seems like it should make more than 310wtq peak.

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                            • #15
                              Interesting, the discrepancy doesn't make sense to me either but at least your test is pretty solid without the usual "different day, new turbo, 2 psi boost difference, swapped exhaust, but mostly the setups are the same!" BS.

                              In general, the stock block 2871R setup seems like one of the best HP/$ ways to go with these cars. I can understand the popularity as a built motor with a bigger T3 turbo really starts getting into the land of diminishing returns for the money spent.
                              ~1992 240SX, SR20/Koni track day car
                              ~2016 M3, daily driver

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