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Piecing together the Koni 8610 setup for the S13

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  • Piecing together the Koni 8610 setup for the S13

    OK, I got the rear koni yellows torn apart last night and am starting to figure out what to do here... which seems to be more confusing that the front. After I got the spring and oem topmount off, I find that the shaft size is 10mm, the raised section is 16mm (5/8ths) and there is a 18mm lip for a stock washer to sit on. My issue is that I can't find a bearing sleeve that goes from 10mm to 18mm (remember, this is the I.D. of the Tein pillowmount) or from 16mm to 18mm with a flange on it. If I reuse some of the OEM hardware then I'll loose alot of travel, not sure how much exactly though, since the tophat will be above everything you see here. Part of the reason I thought of even using the oem hardware was due to the fact that it places the pillowmount in the right position, since the threaded section of the shaft is only so long. There are a few other options, including reusing the stock pillowmount if possible for now, that I'm looking into here also, if anyone else has seen this type of setup before and knows how it should go... now is the time to speak .
    -Monty

  • #2
    I used a bunch of spacers with the D2 rears for mine. I'd imagine you'd be better off running the shaft through a spacer with the Tein pillowball, taking out the stock bushing which kills travel. Run the piston through the plate as much as you can with spacers on top, if you have the clearance up there.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by AceInHole
      I used a bunch of spacers with the D2 rears for mine. I'd imagine you'd be better off running the shaft through a spacer with the Tein pillowball, taking out the stock bushing which kills travel. Run the piston through the plate as much as you can with spacers on top, if you have the clearance up there.
      I forgot that you reused the D2 hardware in the back. So my only concern will be finding a bearing sleeve that works... no one makes a 10mm I.D. to 18mm O.D. sleeve for what I'm needing. If I used a few thick washers on top of the shaft nubbin to give some additional shaft for travel, then use a bunch of washers above the pillowmount to take up the rest of the slack, then I can see that as being a viable option. Thanks... I just need to track down the right sleeve now.
      -Monty

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      • #4
        Monty, Can't you just have something turned down on a lathe?

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        • #5
          Originally posted by 2Fass240us
          Monty, Can't you just have something turned down on a lathe?
          I probably could, but I couldn't find any bearing sleeves that are as small as 10mm for the I.D. that have a O.D big enough to lathe down, that's the biggest issue. What I did find and should work, is using two sleeves.... McMaster Carr has one that goes from a 10mm to 12mm and another from 12mm to 18mm, the total cost of these sleeves is only about $5 and will serve the purpose of centering the strut in the pillow mount. I sent in an email to GC today with a short list of parts that I'll need, hopefully I can have something on my doorstep next week.
          -Monty

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          • #6
            I figured you do the two sleeve thing. As long as there is no movement for rubbing it won't be an issue.
            Between rides...unless you count a WD21...

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            • #7
              I mocked the rears up, just trying to get an idea of what spring length I'm going to need. I'm not sure where in relation to the stock spring mount the GC sleeve sits, so Richard or PJ will need to voice there thought here. This is with a 8" ERS spring and the strut is fully extended right now. If this is where the threaded collar will sit, then I might be ok with an 8" spring... or will I need a 7" spring I put the other one beside it for reference...
              -Monty

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              • #8
                This is a crude drawing of how I'm going to do the stack... still need to figure out a few pieces, but this is getting close to what I'll be using.
                -Monty

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                • #9
                  The stock spring is really soft and compresses quite a bit when the chassis rests on it. I think the 8" spring will be too tall, even with using the last 1" of threads on the sleeve.
                  Between rides...unless you count a WD21...

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by veilside180sx
                    The stock spring is really soft and compresses quite a bit when the chassis rests on it. I think the 8" spring will be too tall, even with using the last 1" of threads on the sleeve.
                    So, do you think I should go with a 6" spring then. I'm making an order with GC within the next few days.
                    -Monty

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                    • #11
                      I'll have Brian measure his this weekend and see where that takes us.
                      Between rides...unless you count a WD21...

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by veilside180sx
                        I'll have Brian measure his this weekend and see where that takes us.
                        Monty, is there any benefit to machining a spacer versus using a stack of SS washers? I would assume that if the I.D. is really close to the shaft O.D., that there would be no advantage. -Andy

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by 2Fass240us
                          Originally posted by veilside180sx
                          I'll have Brian measure his this weekend and see where that takes us.
                          Monty, is there any benefit to machining a spacer versus using a stack of SS washers? I would assume that if the I.D. is really close to the shaft O.D., that there would be no advantage. -Andy
                          I don't think there would be any difference. The only reason I'm going with washers is because there inexpensive and I can move them below/above the camber plate to get the right amount of drope/travel that I want. I ran this by Scot shigspeed and he liked the idea. the only force/load that the washers will see is from the dampener... at least that's how it's supposed to be.
                          -Monty

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                          • #14
                            Progress is slow right now, still waiting on Scott (Shigspeed) to finish up a few things with GC for my order. I traded a pair of my 350lb springs for some 550lb spring. Also, I might be picking up some 450lb springs from a local guy... I think I'll have a variety of springs to play with now
                            -Monty

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                            • #15
                              Put the car up on the ramps tonight and took a few measurement. Measuring the Silkroads from the top hat to the upper strut bolt I got a measurement of 14.5" (no load on suspension) and 13" (loaded). The front spring rates are 333lb, just for reference. Next, I put a pair of 7" springs on the Koni front setup and with the koni insert fully extended my measurement was 12", this is as far as the insert can extend. I can assume that the 550lb springs will not compress as much, so say they'll be 11.5" under load. That tells me that the front of the car will drop by as much as 1.5 to 2" minimum. This is what the front should look like, except with a shorter spring and a donut spacer to center the coilover to the camber plate. With a 1" shorter spring, it looks like I'll still have plenty of adjustment on the threaded body and will be above the tire from my quick measurments. With the car on the ramps, it looks like I could loose a couple of inches and still be ok
                              -Monty

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