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S-chassis alignments!!!

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  • Ending up with

    Front:
    -3.3* camber
    0 Toe
    8*caster

    Rear:
    -2* camber
    1/16" toe in







    Late reply here, didn't even realize anyone replied until I wanted to search to see how much camber you guys were running with the R comps



    Originally posted by Def View Post
    You're pulling 7500 RPM in 5th on the stock .75x gear and a 4.63? 255/40-17s? Or you on the 265/35-18s still?
    On both the 17s and the 18s. Pocono single is a LONG track, the Glen I can tap it if I ball out up the esses and have no worries about the brakes disappearing to turn into the bus stop lol.


    Originally posted by Def View Post
    I'm waffling between a 0.75x and 0.838 5th with a 4.63. I'd need to really rev the thing out with any power on it on the front straight of TWS. The .838 will still get me to 153 mph at 8000 RPM, and I figure the power will hold on enough that it could still pull to 163 mph at 8500 RPM, but I'd rather not hold the engine up there lap after lap.
    And that's the other issue for sure - I know it's too much at Pocono to hang there. But the issue is I get the old red mist trying to run with the big boys haha.



    Originally posted by Def View Post
    Or maybe I should buy into internet opinion and consider my gearbox dead and save up for a Z33 box?
    I'm getting near this dilemma too. Next winter. I still have another spare trans if this one ****s the bed haha.

    OT for an alignment thread, but I blame you, you mentioned top speed.[/QUOTE]
    'Slicks on a car show me you care - broken axles show me you're trying'
    [I]Nitrous Rental Cars - Turbo Festivas - Vehicular Lunacy[/I]
    [SIZE="3"][B][url]www.sloppymechanics.com[/url][/B][/SIZE]

    Comment


    • would -2* camber upfront be fine for a car that is driving to the track and back home (3 hr drive each way)

      I was thinking of going

      Front:
      -2* camber
      7.5* caster
      .2-.3* toe out

      Rear
      -1.5* camber
      0* toe

      Comment


      • No, you need more front camber.

        I'd much rather drive a car on track with about -3 deg camber and zero toe than less camber and some toe out.

        The toe will scrub the tires more than the camber will, and 2 deg of camber will murder the outside of the tires if they're sticky.
        '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


        DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
        http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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        • Originally posted by Def View Post
          No, you need more front camber.

          I'd much rather drive a car on track with about -3 deg camber and zero toe than less camber and some toe out.

          The toe will scrub the tires more than the camber will, and 2 deg of camber will murder the outside of the tires if they're sticky.
          ^^he's right. You will do a number on your front tires when you start getting faster.

          Where are you going? New Jersey?
          Core4 Motorsports
          CLICK HERE for Wilwood FSL6R Radial Bracket & Rear Wilwood BBK GROUP BUY
          S14 VQ AER Endurance Racing Team

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          • copy that fellas. just installed my defsport sleeves and konis. now im off to the alignment shop since i dont have time to toy around with it.

            going with -3 camber and zero toe in front.

            and gills im going to importexpo in pocono. i just got an email 2 days ago that i can race there. they have a beginer class which is perfect for me lol

            Comment


            • Hello people! Disclaimer: I didn't make it through all 17 pages of this thread.

              Currently trying to get my rear camber under control on my (autocross focused) LS1 S13 coupe with a R33 (basically S14) rear subframe. The front camber pates are at the maximum 'in' setting. I have the VooDoo13 rear adjustable arms at their maximum 'in' (most camber) position. Car isn't that low.

              ~ -3.1* front
              ~ -2.8* rear

              My car isn't particularly loose considering the powerplant, but I'd like it to be a little more grippy on the rear axle. I tried to run around -1.0* on my turbo S14, I think I'm going to shoot for -1.5* at the center of the stock eccentric. It looks like I'm getting about a half degree of camber change on the stock eccentric bolt (going from fully out to fully in).

              I see most of yall are running around -2.0* in the rear, is -1.0 to -1.5 going to be enough for my V8 car or shoud I leave it around -2.0? I have an autocross on Sunday so I'll be able to see how far the tires are rolling over.
              Mat #67 - '89 5.3L (L33/T56) 240SX Coupe [XP] - '00 C5 Z51 [BS] - '02 E46 Touring - '17 Z125

              Comment


              • Originally posted by FlatBlack View Post
                Hello people! Disclaimer: I didn't make it through all 17 pages of this thread.

                Currently trying to get my rear camber under control on my (autocross focused) LS1 S13 coupe with a R33 (basically S14) rear subframe. The front camber pates are at the maximum 'in' setting. I have the VooDoo13 rear adjustable arms at their maximum 'in' (most camber) position. Car isn't that low.

                ~ -3.1* front
                ~ -2.8* rear

                My car isn't particularly loose considering the powerplant, but I'd like it to be a little more grippy on the rear axle. I tried to run around -1.0* on my turbo S14, I think I'm going to shoot for -1.5* at the center of the stock eccentric. It looks like I'm getting about a half degree of camber change on the stock eccentric bolt (going from fully out to fully in).

                I see most of yall are running around -2.0* in the rear, is -1.0 to -1.5 going to be enough for my V8 car or shoud I leave it around -2.0? I have an autocross on Sunday so I'll be able to see how far the tires are rolling over.
                I run -1.7-1.8 and based on tire temps and wear, I say go for -1.5. Your -2.8 is overkill with the camber gain in bump on these cars.

                Also, try bumping your front up to -3.5+ if you can.
                Core4 Motorsports
                CLICK HERE for Wilwood FSL6R Radial Bracket & Rear Wilwood BBK GROUP BUY
                S14 VQ AER Endurance Racing Team

                Comment


                • camber depends quite a bit on driving type, spring rates/roll rates, tire type and width, etc etc..

                  on street tires, you'll need to run less camber as the car simply doesn't stick enough to cause the same amount of weight transfer/body roll as a R comp or slick.
                  for a street driven car, you will have to compromise tire life either for the track or street because the camber settings needed are different. (we all know that, but repeating the mantra anyway)

                  Wider tires are the same way to some extent as the wider tire will roll over less at a given pressure and thus wear less on the outside shoulders.
                  Then there's spring rates/ sway bars /roll center/ ride height and the resultant body roll. the flatter the chassis stays in corners, the less static camber you need.

                  So, I'm sorry but the answer is that there's no magic number for an S-chassis. there's about 7 zillion variables to take into account. put something together, and take a good tire pyrometer to the track with you. watch tire temps and tune your setup from there.
                  Originally posted by SoSideways
                  I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
                  '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
                  '96 240SX- The Track Toy

                  Comment


                  • The -2.8* was just after installing the adjustable RUCAs, wasn't targeting it.

                    My car is street driven occasionally, but the main target it autocross. I run RE71Rs right now but my wife has been asking for Hoosiers.

                    I guess I'll try to get it under -2.0 before Sunday and watch the edge of the tire for rollover.
                    Mat #67 - '89 5.3L (L33/T56) 240SX Coupe [XP] - '00 C5 Z51 [BS] - '02 E46 Touring - '17 Z125

                    Comment


                    • Yea, I should've mentioned that I'm on street tires. YMMV.

                      With that said, I don't think the ranges vary wildly for a particular suspension geometry that we are all blessed with.
                      Core4 Motorsports
                      CLICK HERE for Wilwood FSL6R Radial Bracket & Rear Wilwood BBK GROUP BUY
                      S14 VQ AER Endurance Racing Team

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by FlatBlack View Post
                        The -2.8* was just after installing the adjustable RUCAs, wasn't targeting it.

                        My car is street driven occasionally, but the main target it autocross. I run RE71Rs right now but my wife has been asking for Hoosiers.

                        I guess I'll try to get it under -2.0 before Sunday and watch the edge of the tire for rollover.
                        If you don't have one yet, get something like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Longacre-Ra....c100677.m4598


                        You will know if you're pressures and camber are actually working.
                        Core4 Motorsports
                        CLICK HERE for Wilwood FSL6R Radial Bracket & Rear Wilwood BBK GROUP BUY
                        S14 VQ AER Endurance Racing Team

                        Comment


                        • The car liked the camber, my tires are dead but the rear end hooked up much better.
                          Mat #67 - '89 5.3L (L33/T56) 240SX Coupe [XP] - '00 C5 Z51 [BS] - '02 E46 Touring - '17 Z125

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