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Qa1 rod end seems spotty

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  • Qa1 rod end seems spotty

    I don't have tons of experience with Heim joints so I'm not sure if the ones I just got are acting normal or not.

    They are the high misalignment rod ends, ptfe-lines. PCYML10T is the part number

    Up to a few degrees off center they are good but after that they feel "choppy" for lack of a better word. They will move through the whole range and no slop that I can feel but both that I got are a little bindy.

    They're for tie rods and I'm planning on running and checking to see if they smooth out unless someone says that something is wrong.

    Any ideas?

  • #2
    If there's no play in them and you can push it through the stiff spots by hand, or with only sticking something through the center of the ball to hold it, then it will be fine. just means that the ball and race aren't perfectly round- which is damn near impossible to do. Almost all of the rod ends I've bought have some small spot where they bind up a little.

    Put it on and run it.
    Originally posted by SoSideways
    I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
    '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
    '96 240SX- The Track Toy

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    • #3
      That's normal. They're not supposed to be floppy loose when new.

      There's a range of "break away torques" that are valid for commercial rod ends, and it's generally pretty wide. QA1s are typically really good, and usually on the lower end of the scale (which is good from a performance/friction standpoint).
      '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


      DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
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      • #4
        No Def he means they seem to bind up at various angles then free up once you pass it.

        I know this because I have 300 of the suckers in my "warehouse" for my tierod project, but not all of them are like this: ballpark I would say 1/18 exhibits the notchy behaviour, 1/45 or so are really tough to move.


        http://responsetype.com/shop/

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        • #5
          That's normal. They break in quickly with usage.
          '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


          DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
          http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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          • #6
            yup.. normal. the clearance on those things once pressed together is "near zero". some of them have a teeeeeny tiny bit of interference because it's darn hard to get a perfect sphere and the mating 'bowl' part of the rod end perfectly round too. there's just inherently going to be some binding somewhere.

            put 'em under a load and move 'em around and they will self-clearance in a short amount of time.
            Originally posted by SoSideways
            I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
            '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
            '96 240SX- The Track Toy

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            • #7
              Of course the downside with this style of rodend is they "self-clearance" too much and develop play more than your average 3-piece or nylon-injected style.
              http://responsetype.com/shop/

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              • #8
                Originally posted by G-E View Post
                Of course the downside with this style of rodend is they "self-clearance" too much and develop play more than your average 3-piece or nylon-injected style.
                Gotta pay to play!

                I honestly haven't noticed much degradation of the 2 pc high misalignment rod ends on my car.

                If you have issues with them, it's probably worth it to go up to the next size and lower the contact loading. We typically aren't space constrained, so no real downside other than a minor cost per piece increase.
                '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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                • #9
                  I've had more problems with the nylon injected ones beating out the nylon and getting sloppy. The 2pc rod ends on my RUCAs have been there for years and there's a fraction of a mm of play in them. Rocking the arm in and out, I can barely feel the play if I wrap my hand around the entire joint and mount. It's a non issue really.
                  Originally posted by SoSideways
                  I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
                  '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
                  '96 240SX- The Track Toy

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                  • #10
                    Well let's just say I'm aware of the pros and cons to each choice

                    Most of my conversion kits use the nylon type because it has proven to be more durable in mixed conditions. I was actually turned onto them by the local rockcrawler guys, they've been using both the XM the PCYM series for a long time, with a clear longevity advantage to the XM series. It wasn't just heresay I was examining the rigs they brought in to convert too.

                    http://responsetype.com/shop/

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                    • #11
                      I really haven't worn out any rod ends on my car so far, and I've got a mix of 2 pc, 3 pc, and nylon injected races.

                      We'll see how it goes on my FLCA, as I used a 5/8" rod end there due to misalignment bushing availability. I would have gone with a 3/4" rod end if I had my way, but I was making it work. I went with an EXMR10's there.

                      BTW - the EXM's are a little bit cheaper, and have plenty of holding capacity for anything we'd use them for. I've got some I want to put on my swaybar, as I figured why not. I've kinda trashed the carbon fiber liner on the existing rod ends by needing more misalignment, so I went with some high misalignments on the other side.
                      '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                      DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                      http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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