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  • SCCA Club Racing

    I've got an S14 with SR20 and have been making changes to make it a proper track car, and eventually race it. But I'm wondering about what class I'd be legal in for Club Racing within SCCA and ICSCC (Conference) rules. I originally figured ST, but I'm just realizing I'd need a fire suppression system and fuel cell, which I didn't count on.
    Thoughts?

  • #2
    Welcome!

    SR20DE or SR20DET?

    With the SR20DET, the only SCCA class you could run it in is STU. They have just recently passed a rule allowing JDM/Euro engines on a case-by-case basis. I'm planning to submit for approval of the SR20DET in an S14 (since I race an S14 w/ KA in STU currently).

    That won't take effect until sometime next season, but it sounds like you're not exactly going to have the car ready in the next few months anyway.

    Keep in mind you'll need to install a turbo inlet restrictor as well, which will probably require a retune and other fun stuff on your engine.


    If the car is non-turbo, then the same rules probably apply, but you *might* be eligible for STL as well. However, you'll be able to strip a lot more weight out for STU. In STU, you'll be way underpowered. If STL, it'll be slgihtly underpowered for the weight you'll have to run.

    Yes, you will need to install a fire system. They're under $500 and IMO every real race car needs one. I hope I never need it, but if I ever do, it'll be well worth the $500 spent given how much of the car it will save!!

    The rule on fuel cells is that if the fuel tank extends behind the rear axle (and is thus exposed in a collision), then you need to install a cell. You do NOT need a fuel cell for Super Touring in an S14. In an S13, you will. The good thing about the S14 is that the factory fuel tank is in front of the rear axle and saddlebagged over the rear subframe and driveshaft. It's very well protected in our cars, and I haven't ever had fueling issues until the tank is nearly completely empty.

    Can't comment on the ICSCC since I live in the hell of >100F summers that is south TX.. At least the good thing is we can race year-round here.... If you can take the heat!

    I've been running in STU for a couple years now and know the rulebook pretty much inside out and upside down. feel free to ask questions on the car's setup..
    Another place to look is http://www.improvedtouring.com/forums/ Several of the guys on SCCA's Super Touring Advisory Committee post there, and you can get intelligent answers on legality and reasoning by them since they're the guys making the rules.
    Originally posted by SoSideways
    I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
    '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
    '96 240SX- The Track Toy

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks for the info. Yes, next season will be soon enough for me. I have an SR20DET. Where are you getting such detail from? I'm looking at the 2011 SCCA Club Racing General Competition Rules & Specifications. Can you send me a link to the more specific STU rules?
      In Conference (ICSCC), they generally comply with SCCA rules, but they have a Sport Touring class, where declared HP multiplied by 10 equals the minimum car weight with driver. Other than that, they have pretty loose rules. Safety rules follow SCCA IT, so no fire suppression or fuel cell would be required. May be a better way to go for me. Especially since I hope to keep the car marginally street legal - as long as I can increase the boost, extreme car lightening wouldn't be necessary.
      As far as STU goes, I don't even see the 240SX on the approved cars list, but there must be other documentation I'm not aware of. Also, you can only run an 8" wide wheel? I just bought some 9.5s. Sport Touring you can run 10". Also, I have a Kouki front end, although I may be in compliance of "OEM" body panels, I don't have an OEM bumper support to comply with "OEM crushable structure/support." I could get one, but would have to chop it to bits to fit my intercooler. I was going to fab a bumper reinforcement instead, which would be stronger and provide a support for a future splitter.
      There is a race in a couple weeks, so I'll find out more then. I wonder how competitive I'd be in Sport Touring - with such loose rules, there is probably some fairly exotic stuff.

      Comment


      • #4
        The rules literally change by the month.. fortunately it almost always "adds speed"..
        Here's the link to SCCA's site that has the most current rules: http://www.scca.com/clubracing/content.cfm?cid=44472

        the Kouki front end is fine, as long as it has an OEM shape hood and steel fenders. (Just tell them it's a 97 instead of a 95.. )
        the bumper support will be a hangup, but it can be modified as long as it's still "recognizable as the stock piece" i.e. you can cut it to shreds and add a little reinforcement to it to beef it up.

        The car does not have to be on any list to compete in STU. STO requires a 'list'. STU just has to be within the displacement and prep rules.. You could stick a 2.4L Chevy engine in a Corvette and run it in the class if you want to, as long as it met the rest of the rules. (i.e. 17x8 max wheel size)

        STU also has a few line-entries of larger displacement engines at lower prep levels like a 3.8L Mustang with stock cams and compression..

        Safety rules are similar to IT, but require the fire bottle. Otherwise, 6pt cage (minimum) and proper seat, and you're mostly there.

        However, if you plan to put a cage in a car, I 1000% recommend against driving it on the street. One head bump to the cage while not wearing a helmet, and you're in the hospital, if not the morgue. (a 10mph collision killed a rally racer a few years ago while he was driving to paddock with no helmet! )

        Plus, if you want to even be remotely competitive, then it has to be a dedicated track car. tons of camber, stiff springs, etc.

        and yes, wheels are limited to 17x8. that will get you a 245/45/17 with no problems, and with the power levels and weight that will make the car legal for the class, you'll have no problems making those tires last the race.
        Last edited by Matt93SE; 06-26-2012, 07:17 PM.
        Originally posted by SoSideways
        I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
        '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
        '96 240SX- The Track Toy

        Comment


        • #5
          I hear what you're saying about the cage. I was considering removable front bars, but I'm sure even that wouldn't eliminate the hazard.

          Comment


          • #6
            Yeah.. I'm not sure if you can do removable parts in an STU cage. would have to check the rules again... however, it's an option.

            also.. re-read the above post. I started editing and then forgot to finish for a while. doh.
            Originally posted by SoSideways
            I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
            '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
            '96 240SX- The Track Toy

            Comment


            • #7
              I am trying to build up a S13 Hatchback for the STU Class. I have a rolling chassis with no engine or transmission, so seeing how you have been in the series for a while, what would you recommend? My car also has no body panels (front and rear bumper, front fenders, or side skirts), so what OEM version of these would you recommend? Do you need head lights? I removed them completely as I planned to keep the head lights locked in the full down position. Wanting to be competitive enough so that I am not the laughing stock of the race, as well as having a decent chance of actually taking home 1st. I am currently looking into the fire extinguisher systems, and fuel cells, just not sure which to get, as this is my first true race car I am building. Any help would be greatly appreciated. My car is completely stripped of anything interior (pic attached). I currently have Sparco Sprint V racing seats, and Racequip 6pt FIA/SFI race harnesses to install when I get back from deployment, as well as the stock dash. I am looking for a detachable steering wheel with the detachable hub currently. Looking for a place to install Lexan windows, and a full custom roll cage in or near my area as well.
              Attached Files
              Last edited by Devil's_Savior; 04-16-2014, 10:11 AM.

              Comment


              • #8
                First of all, if you don't have a copy of the GCR get one. It can be found here: http://www.scca.com/clubracing/content.cfm?cid=44472. It will answer many of the questions you have. Read it. Live it.

                Second, by no means will you ever be considered a laughing stock in my experience. No matter how fast you are. Most people are very friendly and helpful. You will probably make at least one new friend every single race weekend. Don't expect to go out and set the world on fire your first time out. It can take A LOT of money to run up front in STU depending on what region you are in and how strong the class is. Where are you located?

                Engine is still up for debate imo. SR20 has just been approved. The KA can be built to make decent power, but probably not a class killer. Nobody has ever built a full boogie Nissan anything for STU afaik so there is still a lot of unknowns.

                The rules are pretty specific on body parts. Hood and trunk can be composite as long as they maintain the OEM shape, stock fenders and bumpers. I would think the later front would have a slight aero advantage. Front splitter and small rear wing. Side skirts are allowed.

                I have little to no experience with fuel cells, but I do know they must be FIA certified. ATL and Fuel Safe are reputable companies to look at.

                The first place I would focus on is safety equipment. I put a lot of it off until close to the end of my build and really wish I had done it first. Get the roll cage done, the seat mounted, make sure your comfortable in the car, then move to all the go fast goodies.
                98 240SX SCCA STUish

                Comment


                • #9
                  I'll second everything Joe D said.

                  My KA-DE is still relatively stock- intake, header, early DE cams, that's it. still stock computer, and the only time I opened the valve cover was to swap the cams.

                  The engine puts out guessing about 150whp- never bothered to dyno it but I pretty much stick with the faster Spec Miatas on the straights so my power/weight is just about the same as them. At 2690lbs current weight, that puts me about 150whp.

                  That said, my car's not fast in a straight line but it handles relatively well, and I finish mid-pack at most races. at the regional (now divisional) races, I'm usually up front- top 3, usually fighing for the win.
                  At a National/Majors/Super Tour event when the really fast guys show up, I'm mid-pack if all the fast guys finish. However, about 50% of the time I'll gain 1-2 places because those high-strung cars break. So far I've run about 60 races and took the checker at all but one. The only one I didn't was because I had a tire come apart with 3 laps to go and I pulled in early. I still technically finished so I count it.

                  The good and bad thing about STU is that there is still a HUGE disparity in prep levels within the class, and they allow Spec RX7 and IT cars into the class in current trim. Thus there's almost always someone slower than my car entered. There's usually a couple faster cars too, but I beat them with driving (or the chrome horn...)

                  Essentially, get the safety stuff in the car first. get you a decent cage, fire bottle, and seat, belts, window net, and fuel cell in the car. THEN worry about making it fast.

                  Since you already have the car apart, drop in your engine of choice- SR will be faster but cost more to get started... only stock fenders are allowed, so that's easy. pick up a cheap fiberglass hood (they're less than a carbon hood and slightly lighter.). bumpers and whatnot don't matter. just put something on the car and make it go.


                  For the headlights, see below.
                  Originally posted by GCR, March 2014 version
                  K. Electrical System
                  The electrical system is free provided that:
                  1. Batteries are free, subject to GCR 9.3.9.
                  2. Standard headlights, headlight operating ancillaries, and parking light assemblies may be removed and replaced with a plate of identical shape and size of the lens. Standard headlight assemblies may be replaced with aftermarket units of equal dimension. Vehicles with pop-up and/or hidden headlights may modify and/or remove the headlight assemblies as long as the headlight cover and any other external hardware are properly secured in the stock closed location.
                  3. Fog/driving lights, parking lights and associated attaching hardware may be removed. The resulting openings may be used to duct air, or may be filled/covered. No ducting may extend beyond the outer surface of the bodywork.
                  5. Each car must be fitted with at least one effective windshield wiper assembly, which must be in working order throughout the event. Wiper blades, arms and associated hardware may be substituted freely. Other windshield wiper assemblies may be removed.
                  6. Each car must have an effective defogging/demisting system that is capable of keeping the windshield clear during wet sessions. Anti-fog films meet this requirement.
                  Originally posted by SoSideways
                  I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
                  '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
                  '96 240SX- The Track Toy

                  Comment

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