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  • #16
    ummm....


    wow Nevermind...that's such a ridiculous idea It had never occurred to me, how would one go about getting a timing cover head and solenoids and not have the Oil Pump Drive?

    who would want to decrease the engagement on the oil pump drive?
    I am SKULLWORKS

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    • #17
      I found no RWD VE corrected Pulleys on Gspec's site, and I found the little Alum spacer...it's not my first choice but It might not twist and bind your oil pump gears if it stays lined up I guess...
      I am SKULLWORKS

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Tower240sx View Post
        ummm....


        wow Nevermind...that's such a ridiculous idea It had never occurred to me, how would one go about getting a timing cover head and solenoids and not have the Oil Pump Drive?

        who would want to decrease the engagement on the oil pump drive?
        Just what a lot of fwd guys do, so the spacer exists to make it happen.
        '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


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        • #19
          http://www.sr20-forum.com/howtos/246...explained.html

          -Info removed because it was causing confusion. Hopefully it is clarified below-

          All pulleys made by gspec have the 5mm removed already. The spacer is to run the ve pump with the de pump drive. There are/were lots of vvl heads and pumps floating around so people mix and match. If using vvl pump and vvl drive the pulley is fine as the 5mm of material is removed as above. Spacer is made from 6061. I am not sure why you would assume guys would run bs parts for years.
          Last edited by coors75; 05-02-2012, 03:51 PM. Reason: Attempt to clarify

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Beejis60 View Post
            I wanna go 9k rpms....




            on my LS
            i know a guy who does that. says the key is to squirt lots of oil on the valve springs to keep them cool. but he still occasionally shoots a pushrod through the valve cover so apparently everything becomes a wear item.

            Originally posted by Bluerb240 View Post
            The N1 tensioner is a little different than the normal. let me find my pics.

            I think the vet and 20v tensioners are different to match the different style timing chain. Is the N1 same as vet/20v? (so that would make total of 3 different tensioners?)



            i'll try to dig up a better reference, this is all i see off hand:

            http://www.sr20-forum.com/naturally-...tml#post609714

            I wonder which chain is better.

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            • #21
              Mazworx made 1600-1800hp on the standard Sr timing chain for seasons without issue.

              What benefits could possibly be had from a different timing chain configuration if the current de style most people use works without issue?

              SENT FROM ADR6425 ICS 4.03
              Still Got a few part left! Shoot me a PM if you have questions!
              http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5286

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              • #22
                Originally posted by coors75 View Post
                http://www.sr20-forum.com/howtos/246...explained.html

                The spacer is to run a ve pulley on a de oil pump because so many people just buy the heads due to shipping costs and availability. And so the rest of the pulleys line up. We have guys running 600+ whp on this setup so i am not sure what your plans are. The pulley by gspec are ve as the de underdrive already existed and ve builders tend to spend more $. I cannot remember off the top of my head the reason behind the spacer with the rwd pulley on the ve pump but i will check and clarify as it is usually need only with a de pump as was mentioned. My bad for not checkng before i posted, however, the spacer works just fine on 600whp builds so far.

                All pulleys made by gspec have the 5mm removed already. The spacer is to run the ve pump with the de pump drive. There are/were lots of vvl heads and pumps floating around so people mix and match. If using vvl pump and vvl drive the pulley is fine as the 5mm of material is removed as above. Spacer is made from 6061. I am not sure why you would assume guys woild run bs parts for years.


                I think it is easier for everyone if we keep in mind what motors we are working with before confusing people,

                you CANNOT use a RWD DE front cover/oil pump on a VE, the bolt holes at the top are different on RWD VS FWD because of the CAS in the front cover of the RWD. Cosworth gaskets have both sets of holes luckily,

                With that being said....now that it should be clear this isn't even an option for S-chassis cars.......


                Each motor build is up to the person building it, however If i am going to put a motor together that has more demand on the oil system, (and the VE does with the extra channels to fill the cams and the potential pressure drop at solenoid activation) I'm going to use atleast as much pump as the factory decided was necessary,

                And If i am using a given oil pump I would just use the correct drive for said pump...

                I'm not sure how many SR's you have taken apart but several I have disassembled had wear on the pump drive, so I would be reluctant to increase the load with out accommodating the load with extra bearing area, 6061-T651 is not going to bear any load worth talking about and if it is slightly out of sync with the pump drive and torqued into place it could unevenly load the oil pump.....
                I am SKULLWORKS

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                • #23
                  G-Spec does make a rwd pulley It's not yet posted on the site. I have one already fyi. If you want one give them a call they have a rwd conversation package w/ ve front cover , modified oil pickup and pulley. The spacer comes with it too. ($350)

                  SENT FROM ADR6425 ICS 4.03
                  Last edited by konjiki7; 05-02-2012, 11:57 AM.
                  Still Got a few part left! Shoot me a PM if you have questions!
                  http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5286

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                  • #24
                    No one i know of is putting a de pump of any kind with a ve head on a rwd. That is a step in the wrong direction and im not sure how you thought that is what i was talking about. The kit as posted above exists and works. As for the wear on the oil pump drive your right that is for the builder to assess and deal with accordingly.

                    The purpose of the kit is to be able to run a ve pump on either a de head (rwd in this case) with the spacer or on a ve head which does not require the spacer to line the pulleys up ie crank with accessory pulleys. In your case if you are planning on running a ve head you dont need the spacer so it is a non issue.

                    I think the prob was i mentioned a rwd drive kit. Def mentioned that almost the same kit is used by fwd guys and i was therefore attempting to describe the why of both in the same place which was clearly a bad plan. The orig post was for a ve section on NRR. I was not aware only rwd was acceptable.

                    Anyhow i will encourage anyone who is interested to simply call Greg at Gspec and ask him. He has kits for both fwd and rwd setups for using damn near any combo of vvl and de builds you could want to build.
                    Last edited by coors75; 05-02-2012, 03:59 PM. Reason: More info

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                    • #25
                      I was lost as to why we were talking about fwd too. Lol

                      My post was in reference to why people would want to change to a different type of timing chain. If standard Sr20det chain can withstand absurd amount of power

                      SENT FROM ADR6425 ICS 4.03
                      Still Got a few part left! Shoot me a PM if you have questions!
                      http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5286

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by tonto View Post
                        I think the vet and 20v tensioners are different to match the different style timing chain. Is the N1 same as vet/20v? (so that would make total of 3 different tensioners?)



                        i'll try to dig up a better reference, this is all i see off hand:

                        http://www.sr20-forum.com/naturally-...tml#post609714

                        I wonder which chain is better.
                        N1 is the same as the 1st Gen VE's.

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by konjiki7 View Post
                          Mazworx made 1600-1800hp on the standard Sr timing chain for seasons without issue.

                          What benefits could possibly be had from a different timing chain configuration if the current de style most people use works without issue?

                          SENT FROM ADR6425 ICS 4.03
                          I am interested for the sole reason that nissan produced two different timing chains. how come? I heard the 20v version is lighter but tends to skip vs the other design when subjected to high rpms. i may be wrong or over simplifying.

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                          • #28
                            K20s use the same style chain as later Ves. I think its mostly to do with friction and gas mileage rather than performance.
                            '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                            DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                            http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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                            • #29
                              The Morse chain is a pain in the arse compared to the regular roller chain. Stick with the roller chain is my non-professional opinion. I have a 20V motor in my Pulsar (Sentra) and there are no adjustable cam gears available for the morse chain motors (SR20VE 20V + VET are the only two VE's that use the morse chain).

                              The N1 chain tensioner was supposed to (as far as i knew), other than having the later version finer ratchet teeth, have an extend reach to be able to maintain chain tension to the wear limit of the chain given the shorter head height on the N1 with the increase compression through head shave.

                              I can check nissan FAST parts database if you want me to confirm the part numbers for each tensioner.

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                              • #30
                                That'd be cool. I was going to refresh my chain tensioner during the rebuild, so might as well get the N1 tensioner if we can get it in the states.
                                '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                                DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                                http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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