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VVL Conversion/Checklist

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  • VVL Conversion/Checklist

    So I have been sourcing parts for a VE build and I want to go through a mental check to make sure I am covering all the bases. I was hoping anyone here can either confirm, deny or call me out on things if they do not think it is correct or I missed something. So here goes. This is from a P11 Sr20VE long block btw


    This is fairly easy and below is a list of what I have. I ended up getting a really good deal (crack head pricing) on all that is listed hence why the bearings are sized they way they are (not of my choice)


    JE pistons (SR20DET). Compression Ratio is 8.5:1 with valve reliefs. This will put my static compression at 9.2:1 with standard 1.1mm Headgasket (1.1mm for VE 1.3mm for VET). 2618 T6 high tensile forged aluminum


    Manley H beams. Fairly straight forward

    Wrist Pins:

    See listed. .827 x 2.250 straight wall carbon steel wrist pin provided.


    See listed. ACL race with -.25. I will change this to the standard set unless someone recommends I use these. Same for thrust washers

    Block Prep:

    - Machine to 86.5
    - Hot Tank
    - Drill/tap/install plug in rear oil drain port (S13 block).
    - Surface with oil pump

    Anything needed??


    Standard S13 one has damage on #3 rod journal. May need to be grinded
    - Could use the SR20VE 4 CW?? This seems to work
    - Or could just grab a 8 cW from a friend
    - Cranks are balanced well from factory. Will skip this option

    Head Swap:

    Lets get to it

    Valve Springs

    - Either BC or Supertech with standard retainers. Anyone have the part number for either?? This is for a P11 Sr20VE, so dual valve springs. Need the 93lb pressure option.

    Valve seals/guide

    - New valve seals while in there. Mazworx has them for $1.00 per.
    - Do I need to mess with the valve guides? I would think not.


    - Keeping them standard. Although, the standard exhaust valves are not sodium filled. Any option for the upgrade?? Should I even bother??

    Head Prep

    - Keeping it standard. No port work
    - Needs to be hot tank. Slug build up
    - Drill/tap port where one of the heater lines bolt up for oil supply.
    - Block oil supply hole right above the boss to be drilled
    - VVL oil block
    - Use P12 single solenoid (using Taarks single solenoid block).
    - Using standard Sr20VE heater/water neck (see picture in comparison to S13 heater line routing). Can just block off the perpendicular port and use the metal coolant bypass line from the S13. Transfer sensors to new water neck. Will test fit this over the weekend once the VE shortblock is completely torn down

    Below, see water neck comparison

    Head Gasket
    - Standard Head Gasket is 87mm. I will use the P11 MLS with the 86.5mm bore. Once bolted down the squeeze will make it close to perfect (I think). If not, get a cosworth or Tomei 87mm HG

    Swap Kit
    - New Chain Guides
    - Used VE chain (will be buying new)
    - VE chain tensioner (may ante up to buy Taarks)
    - VE pointer relocation (Taarks)
    - VE oil pickup (was going to modify, but going Taarks again if I cannot find someone to do it)
    - AL SR20DET Pulley (the stock DET one fell apart when I tried to remove it)
    - Water pump pulley

    Anything else I am missing??


  • #2
    Check the guides for wear, they do tend to wear, especially on exhaust.

    A new OEM chain tensioner is plenty. Fine tooth redesign.

    You'll need to flip the intake manifold. You can only cut and flip the lower runners, upper ones are offset and won't line up when flipped (ask me how I know).

    And VE water outlet on head won't work. I believe it hits the thermostat on a DET block. I made one, and it's not a bad idea to choke down the coolant bypass to the tstat, I went to 3/8". It helps with cooling by not having a huge 5/8" bypass all the time.

    It's not that hard to find a new tdc measurement on the crank pulley and mark it. You also need to machine 5 mm off the back of the pulley.

    Are you using a P12 CAS? Honestly I don't know how you can install an engine with that in and not best it to hell. And I don't think you can install it or remove it with the engine in.
    '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!

    DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!


    • #3
      Btw, I wouldn't use that M8 hole for oil supply, it'll be pretty choked down, and there's quite a bit of flow needed on the high cams since the rockers all have piling holes.

      I'm using an industrial solenoid from valves4projects (there is an eBay store) and feed it into the head via a Mazworx relocation plate. It's not the only way to do it, but it is an option rather than using high priced oem solenoids that are big as hell and hard to seal up to the relocation plates.
      '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!

      DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!


      • #4
        Hey Def. To answer your questions/statements

        1) How does one go about checking the guides apart from removing them?? But good call. I have been hearing the same about the guides on the P11

        2) OEM tensioner is only 20 cheaper than the Taarks/Mazworx. Toss up at this point

        3) Did you cut/flip to get some AL welding done?? Care to do another?? . I was thinking just grabbing an Xcessive

        4) Thats unfortunate the water neck won't work............I guess I will just have to pony up the funds

        5) This seems to be a good way to determine TDC. Alsom yes, 4-5mm off a stock DET pullley, not VE

        6) Yep, using P12 CAS as I want to go Nismotronic. Quick and effective and keeps the budget in check. The S13 has issues with P12 clearance. Install/removal while engine in the car is to be determined. This is not going in a S chassis

        7) I am going to use P12 solenoid. However, the 5535 guys who built the land speed SR15VET used that same galley for oil feed so I am sure it is not an issue. Either way, I have a Tomei oil block I can use to provide oil presure.
        Do you have a picture of your solenoid setup??

        BTW does anyone have a translated P11 or P12 FSM??


        • #5
          Once the spring is out, if there is play in the guide, it's trash. I think you can use that as a go-no go gauge.

          I'm pretty busy these days, but if you can't find anybody local to cut and weld, I will help ya out. Let me know. But don't expect F1 level welding!!!

          Check out my latest build thread, I put a ton of pics of what I did along the way.
          '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!

          DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!


          • #6

            Thoughts on hot tanking the head with or without guides?? I guess if they are bad, they are coming out anyways, but if I do not have to remove them and get new ones installed, then sweet

            P.S. on that note: is there machining involved in replacing the new guides or are they pressed in??


            • #7
              The guide holes might need to be reamed. Honestly, tell the machine shop what you want and let them do it. Don't dictate details like remove guides before hot tanking etc. a good shop will know what to do.
              '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!

              DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!


              • #8
                Took it all apart and the guides seem to have zero play.

                Is there a full gasket kit out there sans crappy teflon (or whatever) HG??