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  • #16
    Well. Distributor was off. Got it running. Got warm. And it I shut it off. Now it won't start. My luck.


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    • #17
      Engine codes?

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      • #18
        Didn't even think to check. I will soon.


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        • #19
          Okay. So I'm running codes 12(maf?) and 34(knock) I'm not sure why it's throwing the knock code. It's brand new. And I'm not sure if it still is. My first start up was without the maf hooked up. I need to reset the ecu. But those are the 2 codes I pulled


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          • #20
            I wouldnt think either of those would inhibit cranking up. Could the distruibtor have rotated within it's adjustment slots? The range of ignition timing an engine can run with is greater than the range it can crank from. At least this has seemed to be my experience. Just a guess.

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            • #21
              I need to get a timing light so I know it's not on right. 20* before tdc is what I'm looking for correct?


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              • #22
                The factory service manual will have the timing spec, it maybe transmission dependent. But 20 sounds about right. A timing light is a pretty good tool to have after a rebuild. Without one you can get it good enough to crank and drive alright. Start with the timing fully retarded. Then attempt to crank it. Advance the timing a little and crank it again. Keep repeating the add advance / crank until you hear the cranking sound change (you may notice a reduction in cranking rpms). Then retard the timing a hair and you should be ballpark close to where the timing should be.
                Ideally it will crank and run before the cranking sound changes.
                Last edited by josh_s13; 02-14-2015, 10:53 PM.

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                • #23
                  Got the car idling decent. I still have the knock sensor code and maf code. I need to get a new header. 2 of the studs on my oem one snapped for the downpipe.

                  However it runs rich. I'm sure I'll need to set the tps and get a new maf. Hopefully it leans out a little bit.


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                  • #24
                    With both the MAF and knock sensor codes, the engine will run rich as a fail-safe to prevent bad things happening. most reliability problems are from running lean, so the ECU defaults to a richer setting when sensors stop working.
                    Originally posted by SoSideways
                    I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
                    '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
                    '96 240SX- The Track Toy

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                    • #25
                      Knock sensor is brand new. Well that sucks...


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                      • #26
                        I wouldn't be to quick to call the knock sensor bad. You aren't 100% sure of what precisely your ignition timing is and you have a MAF code. If ignition timing is wrong you could get detonation. Knock code may follow detected detonation. If MAF is wrong or nonexistent the ECU can't distribute the proper amount of fuel. Triggering detonation, thus triggering the knock sensor.

                        I would check voltages and resistances at the MAF, both at the MAF and ECU.

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                        • #27
                          Check continuity on the knock sensor connector. Keep in mind there's a subharness to it, I'd recommend pulling the annoying EV1 connector off the sensor itself (and don't lose the clip!) and checking all the way from the ECU out.

                          If you really overtorqued it, you could have killed the sensor though. That's the most common failure mechanism (and dropping it too).
                          '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                          DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                          http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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                          • #28
                            I really don't want to pull the intake again. ****. I have set ignition timing however. It doesn't run horrible. But deffinatly rich.


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                            • #29
                              So I checked voltage and resistance. I'm just gunna post a picture of what I found out. The chart is wires :1,2,3,blank. I set my dvom to 200k for resistance. When checking voltage I set it to 200.



                              First line is resistance. Key off. Second line is voltage at key on engine off. Only the 3rd wire has power. Engine running is the last line. I never got the output voltage of the maf. But with it un plugged it idled around 2000 rpm. Ran a bit better but started missing again.

                              Now when I say missing. It's not a hard miss. What so ever. It is noticeable. I can get a video if needed. I didn't check at the ecu yet. I need to find a pin out diagram.


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                              • #30
                                Check page 96 in the EC section of the FSM. Upon skimming through it. I think what you are calling pin 1 should have about 1V at idle. Pin 2 maf to pin 17 on ECU should be 0 ohms. Pin 1 maf to pin 16 on ecu should be 0 ohms. I think pin 1 to pin 2 on maf should be greater than zero ohms, but present. I dont know the MAF's resistance range.

                                Were your resistances measured from ground? If so, the MAF ground may be switched through the ecu. You could be measuring resistance through a transistor. Thats kind of what your resistance numbers look like.

                                Page 116 of the same section has knock sensor troubleshooting.
                                Last edited by josh_s13; 02-17-2015, 04:58 PM.

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