Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Stand Alone ECU Sensors (not name brand). What to use??

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Stand Alone ECU Sensors (not name brand). What to use??

    Folks

    So I am speccing out sensors for the Stand Alone ECU. It seems every single "main stream" Stand Alone ECU manufacturer either uses GM type or Honeywell sensors, place their own name on there and charge (in some cases) 5-8 times the price of the standard sensor.

    What are the standard replacement sensors for the below that folks have been using?? Keep in mind, E85 is a possibility, so being able to stand up to Ethanol is a plus.
    - Fuel Pressure
    - Oil Temp
    - Oil Pressure
    - Pressure Sensors (MAP)
    - Air Temp (Intake Air temp)
    - Coolant Temp

    Those are the simple ones to get started for now

  • #2
    The AEM stainless sensors are the nicest, but they get pricey. If you search around you can find the original source (it’s no Honeywell), but it’s honestly not much difference in cost vs buying from AEM.

    The 1/8 NPT temp sensors from AEM are also pretty good and fairly cheap.
    '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


    DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
    http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks Def! I actually picked up a 1/4 NPT IAT from Haltech as I already had a manifold bung for it and wanted to free up the 1/8 NPT for IACV/Vacuum block (although, I can source the Haltech calibration for a baseline). Sensor was all of $39 shipped. That leaves me with 2 more 1/4 NPT and one 1/8 NPT. Having onboard MAp sensors frees up one bung.

      Fuel Pressure - GM (using AEM FPR port). Calibration available online
      Oil Temp - GM or VDO sendor (Using one port from the Taarks Oil Block). Still need to source one with proper calibration
      Map Pressure - there is on onboard 4 bar sensor, so no need
      IAT - (went with Haltech/into manifold)
      Coolant Temp - Will probably stick with the factory and one external so I can control the fans from the cockpit vs the ECU. Using bleed port (1/4 NPT) on the S14 coolant neck to keep things clean.

      That should round it all out. Thoughts??

      Comment


      • #4
        I don't get the separate external coolant temp. Probably easier to get a gauge/dash that displays all sorts of stuff from the ECU.

        For the cockpit fan control, just do 2 relays assuming you're using a dual speed jobber. One run by the ECU, one run by a switch in the cockpit. That way you can't forget and melt your engine.
        '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


        DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
        http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

        Comment


        • #5
          The external coolant temp things is so I can control the fans independent of the ECU. I have found at the hotter trackdays I need to turn the fans on a bit earlier than what the ECU has programmed and it isn't always a set point. That's the way I had it setup on my prior setup with a stack H20 gauge. Two relays; one for each fan (Spal big boys. They drew a fair amount of amps) and then ran to the Stack gauge. Worked flawless (and this was important if I was street tuning and had to toggle the fans on without having to constantly change setting in the ECU).

          Everything else will be ran to a centralized Racepac, Tunerview RD2 or CAN to tablet. no Bluetooth as it tends to have a delay. I also need to figure out if I can toggle the fan through the CAN connection, which I assume I cannot since the CAN is just a data transfer, correct??

          Comment


          • #6
            I've been using the cheap ~$15 Chinese fuel/oil/water pressure transducers for the last 4-5yrs on my race s13. Using e85 too. I had 2 of the name brand sensors fail, but the cheap ones have been fine.

            I assume they all come from the same factory. This type.
            https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5V-PRESS...wOlig2XHlCKZxg
            S13 Race car, 310 rwkw, Lakeside 55.5, Queensland Raceway Sprint 56.69, QR National 1:17.1
            Sam Collins Motorsport Facebook
            My youtube channel
            S13 Race car build

            Comment


            • #7
              I had some of those cheapies fail and cause weird problems on my +5V bus. No problems with brass or stainless AEM ones. YMMV
              '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


              DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
              http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

              Comment


              • #8
                Weirdly I had a brass AEM one fail after only a couple of months. Was oil pressure not e85 or anything.
                S13 Race car, 310 rwkw, Lakeside 55.5, Queensland Raceway Sprint 56.69, QR National 1:17.1
                Sam Collins Motorsport Facebook
                My youtube channel
                S13 Race car build

                Comment

                Working...
                X