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Threaded coilover sleeves.

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  • There's still quite a bit of variance there.

    55 mm is 2.17", so it sounds like it's right in the ball park (I was going off what looked right on the model when designing it, I guess I've got a good eye for S-chassis geometry at this point...).
    '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


    DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
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    • To use 8611's in the rear, with the stock spindle. Does the lower mount have to be removed in order to adjust the bottom knob? Or am I missing something?


      IG: l_fitzhenry

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      • Yes, for most mounts you'd have to remove the mount to adjust compression.

        If you opened up a window perhaps you could adjust it without removing the lower mount, but you'd need to make sure things were strong enough after the cut.
        '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


        DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
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        • I'm definitely in for 2 sleeves and gland nuts. Would need z32 lower mounts for my setup. Possibly may want 4 more sleeves for a total of 6.

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          • Test fit everything against a stock spindle this weekend and it all worked fine.

            I'm going to thin out the insert washer portion to 2 mm. Should provide stability to it with possibly stock bolts working.

            The other option is to aim for them to be the same height as the brackets. Not sure how that'll do with the stack up difference that you'll get.
            '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


            DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
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            • So looking at it, the stock bolt needs a washer, so I might as well include that in the insert.

              Is anybody freaked out by likely having to source 4 new bolts?

              If I work within the confines of the stock bolts, I will have to reduce the safety factor of the brackets, or make other bad design choices. So I think the best thing to do for people who will likely drove these hard is to err on the safe side and make a good design that uses new bolts.

              So please chime in with your opinions on this.
              '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


              DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
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              • No prob with me. Would rather have a properly designed/stronger bracket. What size bolt will be required?
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                BTW I work for Garrett

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                • From what I can tell, the stock bolt is 60 mm long (if someone can confirm that'd be awesome). A 70 mm bolt should do fine.

                  Right now it's at 51 mm from insert face to insert face with 2.5 mm of "insert washer."

                  The real issue is metric bolt availability in the U.S. Kinda sucks above M12. Not sure we'll be able to find the M14 x 1.5 mm thread S14s use. The M12 x 1.25 mm stuff for the S13 isn't great either, but likely doable.

                  Changing out bolts and nuts adds even more cost such as going to an M14 x 2 mmbolt (which is what I'm running actually).

                  I'll give it some think...
                  '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                  DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
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                  • What is the washer? A lot of ears have a slot with no washer or insert

                    Try metric specialties.
                    http://www.metricspecialties.com/

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                    • Originally posted by jfryjfry View Post
                      What is the washer? A lot of ears have a slot with no washer or insert

                      Try metric specialties.
                      http://www.metricspecialties.com/
                      It's basically an offset(or centered) hole in an oval that presses into the bracket, then the outer part of that insert is an integrated "washer" that's 2.5 mm thick.

                      And yes, some coilovers have slotted upper holes and they don't slip for a lot of people, but you're relying on friction on the bolt for the holding capacity. It wouldn't work with upper and lower slotted holes, as something will move like that IMO. If the design has to be the same thing as what's readily available out there - then I'm not really interested in having to make them and would rather just concentrate on sleeves.

                      Make sense?



                      I did more FEA on the latest design, and I'm not willing to go below 8 mm on the ear thickness, which is like 4-5 mm more than the stock steel ears. That's where most the problem comes from.


                      Right now the stock bolt/nut has plenty of thread engagement for a shear application (6 full threads), but I don't think it'll engage the upper deformed portion for the locking properties. So it's not like it's a dangerous situation, it's just not an ideal design, and I would come up with a better solution.
                      '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                      DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                      http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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                      • It does, but I don't know that it needs to be more complicated than just a slot. You could recess 3 holes the diameter of the bolt heads in the three positions your inserts are made for. Just a little bit that shouldn't affect strength but would locate everything and keep it from moving.

                        It would eliminate your inserts and make it simpler.

                        But if you want to keep it the way it is, another $30 in new bolts shouldn't be a big deal.

                        Did you try the place I linked?

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                        • The slot is large enough to being the stress down in the insert. Make that wall too thin and it ovalizes due to fit up tolerance.

                          The "washer" portion of the insert is to make sure the clamp load is distributed evenly.

                          What you're describing works "ok," but will yield the aluminum around the bolt every time you torque it and create stress risers and localized areas of plastic deformation.

                          But it's cheaper and uses stock bolts, so mfrs do it. It doesn't fail on people that are hard parking, or if it does, they chalk it up to them "being old."

                          I think the cost of new bolts/nuts would be in the $12-18 range for a set of 4. Not $30.


                          I went to the website you linked, seemed like a generic "we can get you anything, call us" thing. I'm sure you can source JiS long grip bolts in the U.S., the question becomes at what cost? I don't see a huge risk in going with DIN coarse thread bolts, especially for M14 sizes. That really opens up the supply.
                          '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                          DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                          http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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                          • $1200ish for some housings, I'd expect buying $15 worth of hardware shouldn't be a huge issue at that point, eeeesh.

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                            • Nice to see this moving along Def.

                              Who did you end up going for with the machining/ano? I'm always looking for prototype machinists for work stuff.

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