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  • #31
    Estimated sr20det cost. (Appears to be less that sr20de turbocharged once turbo, manifold, and fuel control are added)

    sr20det 1800
    oil pan 75
    boost controller 25
    plumbing 50
    driveshaft 150
    ic 0
    mounts 50
    turbo back exhaust 150
    gages 50
    fluid refills 75
    misc hardware 75

    For a grand total of around $2500

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    • #32
      For a ca18det

      ca18det 1250
      oil pan 75
      boost controller 25
      plumbing 50
      driveshaft 150
      ic 0
      mounts 50
      turbo back exhaust 150
      gages 50
      fluid refills 75
      misc hardware 75

      total: ~$2000

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      • #33
        Because why not consider:

        chevy truck v8 800
        oil pan ?
        coolant hoses 50
        plumbing 50
        driveshaft 250
        headers 200
        mounts 50
        cat back exhaust 150
        P/S setup 100
        fluid refills 75
        misc hardware 275

        Total around $2000

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        • #34
          The ca and sr number didn't include power steering and radiator connections, which would probably be around 200.

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          • #35
            for comparison's sake vg30e staying NA

            ported heads 0
            intake 150
            manifold 250
            exhaust 150
            clutch kit 150
            flywheel resurface 50
            removing broken studs 75
            engine rebuild kit 400
            fluid refills 75
            machine shop engine internals 100

            total $1400
            200ish bhp similar fuel consumption

            about $900 if the rebuild is omitted

            Comment


            • #36
              Originally posted by josh_s13 View Post
              Estimated sr20det cost. (Appears to be less that sr20de turbocharged once turbo, manifold, and fuel control are added)

              sr20det 1800
              oil pan 75
              boost controller 25
              plumbing 50
              driveshaft 150
              ic 0
              mounts 50
              turbo back exhaust 150
              gages 50
              fluid refills 75
              misc hardware 75

              For a grand total of around $2500
              I've got a freshly rebuilt T25, manifold, stock dump pipe and 370cc injectors sitting around that you can have for a few hundred. Might still make sense to go with the DET, but the DE is fine with a ROM tune (which I'd do on the DET anyway). Daughterboards are cheap, and it's not hard to burn a chip and tweak maps a bit. Doesn't need tons of dyno time either.

              Your engine rebuild costs are extremely low from what I've seen. Unless you're just paying some greasy shop down the street to do a horrible job, don't measure anything, and just throw it back together. Rebuilds like that usually end up not lasting a year or so. Mike and I keep having horrible experiences with machine work being absolutely horrible, even paying not cheap prices...

              I guess you need to ask yourself if you really want to keep the Z31 and have it in GOOD shape which will require an investment more than the car is worth, or just limp this thing along as cheap as you can.


              A non-Nissan swap is going to be much harder to make work nicely with your existing electronics IMO. If that's not a concern on that, then it isn't a concern on the Nissan engines which makes things really easy.


              But my point stands that a stock SR20DET/orDE with a T25 added will keep up just fine with any of the builds you're listing, as I don't see the VG with a bigger turbo slapped on it doing anything amazing without the fuel system to support it, and that's usually going to add quite a bit.

              The CA is an old engine, and it's not very powerful or really efficient. It's not much cheaper than an SR really considering an SR20DE is roughly as fast as a CA18DET.
              '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


              DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
              http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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              • #37
                From car-part.com:
                1988 Nissan 300ZX
                Engine w/turbo (VG30T, VIN 'C', 4th digit)- 141,000 $600 Ab's Like New Import Auto Salvage USA-TX(Grand-Prairie) 877-263-7044 / 972-263-7044

                $600 for a junkyard engine. toss a set of bearings and rings in it for grins, new water pump & timing belt, and drop it in the car. pick up a used exhaust from somewhere and it'll drop right in the car- no custom fab needed.


                The problem is you're starting from an NA engine and trying to go turbo. If you start with a turbo engine and just give it a simple overhaul, your costs drop dramatically.

                Pick up a new clutch disc for $100 and you're done there. leave the P/P alone and just stick a new disc on it.

                You can spend a fortune on a project, or you can get a cheap DD running and drive it. You already have a track toy, right?
                Originally posted by SoSideways
                I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
                '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
                '96 240SX- The Track Toy

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                • #38
                  New rings without honing the cylinders? Sounds like a recipe for low compression...

                  That $600 gets you a worn out junkyard engine, and it's not going to be cheap to really refresh it.

                  Adding a small T25 to an SR20DE is not difficult, unless you count drilling a tapping 4 holes as "difficult." And you've got a very low mileage engine that's pretty new... like half the age of the car.


                  I agree that I wouldn't want this to turn into a crazy franken-project either, but tossing in a relatively stock, newer Nissan engine isn't that difficult.

                  The hardest part of the SR I see is the rear sump configuration. Nothing some welding can't fix, but it'd be some work.
                  '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                  DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                  http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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                  • #39
                    if i went turbo on the engine that i already have, i have 6 550cc injectors that should be able to fit. Although i think around 1987 they changed to injector types. On the flip side the earlier z's have a different ecu, which i am afraid will be kinda pricy to change parameters in.

                    There is one really good machine shop in Charleston thar is pretty cheap. They are the only shop around that i know of thats worth a crap.

                    The oil pan and pickup on sr shouldn't be that hard or expensive to change, just time consuming. It should only need a few square feet of sheet metal and some pipe for the pickup tube.

                    I think the turbo z used a different front crossmember than the na.

                    If only good and cheap went hand in hand.

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                    • #40
                      SR upper pan is aluminum, but you're right, it wouldn't be that hard to mod it really, just time and some welding.
                      '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                      DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                      http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        the aluminum pan would up the cost because i'd either have to get a spool gun for my mig, or buy a tig. not the end of the world, but an extra couple hundred + dollars.

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          Originally posted by Def View Post
                          New rings without honing the cylinders? Sounds like a recipe for low compression...
                          I didn't say anything about not honing the cylinders. given a 'garage refresh', it won't take much to run some dingle balls through it and stick some new rings on. The VG blocks are incredibly stout and long-lasting. I've torn down VGs and VEs (which are an updated VG) with >250k miles and you can still see the factory crosshatching on the cylinder walls. don't see much need for more than a quick hone and move on.

                          As for the 'age' of the engine, you are aware that Nissan ran the VG30E up to '95 in the Hardbody/Pathfinder, '98 in the Quest/Villager (in non-interference version to make FoMoCo happy) and the VG33E up to 2004 in the Frontier/XTerra in the states? Using one of those blocks would negate any savings of the newer SR that you talk about.


                          There is an entire Nissan world based around the VG engine. It's still a very stout performer and can do anything and everything an alu 4 cyl can. The only drawback is weight, but the Z31 will never be a ballerina anyway.

                          Given the budget for this build, it really doesn't make sense to try to stick an SR in a car that was designed around the VG. WAY less hassle to just stick a better-running engine in the car and drive vs. turning it into a project.
                          Originally posted by SoSideways
                          I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
                          '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
                          '96 240SX- The Track Toy

                          Comment


                          • #43
                            the aluminum pan would up the cost because i'd either have to get a spool gun for my mig, or buy a tig. not the end of the world, but an extra couple hundred + dollars.

                            Comment


                            • #44
                              20 mpg vg
                              30 mpg sr

                              12k miles/yr.

                              Gas at $5/gal

                              Save $1000/year

                              Those figures are probably quite slanted towards the sr but even so you're looking at close to 10 years to break even (putting a dollar amount on an appx time to swap).

                              Your initial question was about fuel mileage. I'd figure either to save the world or to save you money.
                              I'm guessing the second reason.

                              So unless you want to keep this car past ~2023, seems logical to save the time of the swap and just fix what's wrong. Then you have saved time, money and have a bunch of new stuff.

                              The only advantage, as I see it, of an sr, is the wow factor when you pop the hood and the satisfaction of doing something cool.

                              You already get that with your s13. But do whatever makes you happier!


                              Edit:
                              Different figures

                              20 mpg vg
                              25 mpg sr

                              8k miles/yr

                              $4/gal gas

                              Save $320/yr

                              Hmmm.... I'm seeing you driving a vg that purrs like a kitten after this weekend.
                              Last edited by jfryjfry; 12-04-2013, 12:38 PM.

                              Comment


                              • #45
                                Originally posted by Matt93SE View Post
                                I didn't say anything about not honing the cylinders. given a 'garage refresh', it won't take much to run some dingle balls through it and stick some new rings on. The VG blocks are incredibly stout and long-lasting. I've torn down VGs and VEs (which are an updated VG) with >250k miles and you can still see the factory crosshatching on the cylinder walls. don't see much need for more than a quick hone and move on.

                                As for the 'age' of the engine, you are aware that Nissan ran the VG30E up to '95 in the Hardbody/Pathfinder, '98 in the Quest/Villager (in non-interference version to make FoMoCo happy) and the VG33E up to 2004 in the Frontier/XTerra in the states? Using one of those blocks would negate any savings of the newer SR that you talk about.


                                There is an entire Nissan world based around the VG engine. It's still a very stout performer and can do anything and everything an alu 4 cyl can. The only drawback is weight, but the Z31 will never be a ballerina anyway.

                                Given the budget for this build, it really doesn't make sense to try to stick an SR in a car that was designed around the VG. WAY less hassle to just stick a better-running engine in the car and drive vs. turning it into a project.
                                I never said it made financial sense, in fact I said it really didn't. It just depends on if the OP wants a project. Sounds like he does and he doesn't and can't really make up his mind.

                                I guess you can get a newer VG and deal with the work of swapping it, but at some point it becomes a bit of a project. Just depends on if the OP wants to deal with that.

                                IMO, his current engine sounds like it's a goner. By the time you get that deep in it, you might as well have pulled the thing out and put something in fresher for the same or less money.
                                '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                                DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                                http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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