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Def's New Ride: SW22

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  • #31
    Overall Tein's aren't terrible. For a basic build, they work. I had Tein Flex on the S14, and it worked surprisingly well

    If you are sitting at 300 WHP on a 6758, I wouldn't worry too much about the studs. You can get a turbo support and just run the Inconel/miata stuff.

    Considering how efficient the EFR series is, downsize one size in turbo to a 6758 T25 vs a TS 7163, may be worth the cost savings.

    Ungodly amounts of rubber =/= 255/235 setup

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    • #32
      I never really ran into tire temp problems except on the absolute hottest days with aero on my S13. Granted the S13 was lighter than the MR2 will be, but it's ~250-350 lbs most likely. The aero actually made tire temps go way up. No aero on the MR2 planned. I think those tire widths are perfectly fine with the car, and it's a lot more $$$ to go wider for no benefit for a car like this. Keep in mind modern cars trying to fit tons of rubber are like 800-1200 lbs heavier than the MR2, which yes, at that weight you better be on at least a 285 or you're going to roast the tire on track.

      Teins actually aren't bad. I had Flex Z's on my S2000 and they were actually pretty good overall. I had a few gripes like their high speed compression and rebound being a tad aggressive relative to the low speed, but overall the hardware was pretty high quality, and they worked very well, especially given the cost.

      I had really bad experience with M8 hardware on a T25, so I'd only go that route if I could get some M10 holes in at least 3 of the 4 locations to hold the turbo up. By the time I drop $200 on inconel hardware from the Miata shops, I'd just get a TS T4 EFR. The flange is almost identical to the divided CT26 flange (flow entry is ~12 mm wider, ~2 mm taller), while the T25 inlet is ~14 mm thinner in width and 8 mm shorter in height and undivided. Not the end of the world, and I could taper the ~1/2" thick flange to provide a reasonable entry.

      I don't see the need for a 7163 on the engine. It doesn't have the head flow to take advantage of it, and I'm not going to try running 30 psi or something nutty on a stock bottom end. The aluminum bearing housing saves a couple of pounds, but it's not really in line with the goals of the engine. The 6758 will still have plenty to give if I want to turn the wick up to the 20-22 psi range. The 7163 is an amazing turbo, I just don't see the point in the extra cost here. It's not a huge increase in cost, but from everything I've seen, even with the mixed flow turbine wheel of the 7163, the 6758 will still outspool it. Plus no sense in spinning up a 550 BHP compressor wheel to only the low 300's range when the wick is turned up, and even less below that.
      '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


      DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
      http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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      • #33
        Bought some Shin-Etsu silicone lube (OEM Honda part is the easiest way to get it) and lubed up all the rubber seals on the car. There are a lot with the t-top openings, but it definitely seemed to bring them back and make them more pliable. Thankfully they all seem in great shape, so hopefully some yearly attention will keep them like new going forward.






        Result:

        '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


        DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
        http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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        • #34
          Also cleaned up the car this past weekend and got the haze off the front corner lights.

          Hazed up front corner lights ready to be cleaned up:



          The initial plastic that comes off is nasty. Very UV damaged and cloudy so it turns the water into an ahmed-reading-about-Konis type fluid...




          Just washed up, no paint correction or waxing yet:



          She shines up pretty good:



          Hot Import Nights here I come!

          '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


          DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
          http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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          • #35
            Great buy, Def. That color is definitely proper 90's! haha. It's a car that doesn't get enough credit and love, IMO.

            I know everyone in here loves their turbocharged powerplants, but I'm a huge fan of throwing a NA V6 into there. Since my head is buried in endurance racing, there are MR2 V6 swapped teams in Champ/ChumpCar that have done very well for a long time.
            Core4 Motorsports
            CLICK HERE for Wilwood FSL6R Radial Bracket & Rear Wilwood BBK GROUP BUY
            S14 VQ AER Endurance Racing Team

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            • #36
              Yea, that's got a guy who sells a lot of V6 powered MR2 swap parts. Some of the stuff is a little spendy, but it's a pretty low volume market, so I can see where the pricing comes from. I'd probably make some parts to keep the cost down if I went that way.

              I've thought more and more about it, and I think I at least want to experience some 3S fun for a while. The engine is in pretty good shape overall. It just needs a more modern turbo and a quieter exhaust. Then if I still want to scratch the NA V6 itch, I can do that as a big project later.

              I think what I'm going to do for the exhaust is either a single big Vibrant muffler like this:



              Or 2 Magnaflows in series, the first one a transverse fitment, and the other one in series with the outlet of the transverse setup. Transverse muffler is this: https://www.magnaflow.com/products?partNumber=14267


              Advantage of the Vibrant muffler is a larger body (6x10x24"ish), vs. 5x8x18 of the transverse muffler, then I'd try to fit another 5x8x18 single on the one outlet. But an advantage of the transverse muffler is that I could more easily fit a cat to it (running parallel to the transverse muffler setup), and I could put a boost actuated exhaust control valve on the driver's side "short exit" out of the transverse muffler. So it'd be breathing through a 3" to 2.5" straight through exhaust during normal cruising, then as boost built it'd crack open the other 2.5" outlet to relieve pressure.

              The current Berk exhaust is just too loud, and it drones horribly at 3k RPM. It might be them cheaping out on the construction, as earlier ones seem to be much quieter. The active exhaust would keep it pretty quiet until I'm up in boost, then it'll go to "normal catback sound," at least that's my thought.

              I could also do an active valve on the Vibrant muffler, but I don't know how much difference it'll make with one side being a pretty short run out vs. having a whole other 18" muffler body to run through that's 2.5" (which should knock the sound down pretty good on that side.


              Anybody ever use one of those valves? They're total Chinesium, but I don't see why they wouldn't work for quite a while.

              '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


              DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
              http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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              • #37
                Interesting update on my buddy's motor -- apparently the 2nd gen 3S blocks can crack randomly. Sounds like it's mostly just bad luck rather than anything specific but turns out his is cracked and leaking. So I guess we're yanking the motor in the new few weeks and he's block swapping.

                "buy an mr2, they said...."

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                • #38
                  I never used a specific valve, but bought a muffler with one built in.

                  I got one of these for my S14 to not have to deal with swapping my muffler out at tracks with sound restrictions: https://www.xforceusa.com/products/varex-mufflers

                  It is a quality product. A bit on the heavy side, and a bit pricey, but it functioned very well. It was able to lower the dB enough to not get booted off tracks and then was plenty loud when fully opened.
                  Core4 Motorsports
                  CLICK HERE for Wilwood FSL6R Radial Bracket & Rear Wilwood BBK GROUP BUY
                  S14 VQ AER Endurance Racing Team

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                  • #39
                    Originally posted by e1_griego View Post
                    Interesting update on my buddy's motor -- apparently the 2nd gen 3S blocks can crack randomly. Sounds like it's mostly just bad luck rather than anything specific but turns out his is cracked and leaking. So I guess we're yanking the motor in the new few weeks and he's block swapping.

                    "buy an mr2, they said...."
                    Cast iron blocks are pretty thin walled, and yea, I've seen a few reports the 2nd gen 3S blocks have let go. It's probably a function of an internal casting flaw plus increased horsepower that causes the flaw to zip out to the surface.

                    Why doesn't he just drop in a 4th gen? Or is he going to build a 5S stroker?
                    '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                    DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                    http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      Not sure what the plan is.

                      He has a built-to-the-hilt motor. I think he's just gonna swap internals over to a new block.

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                      • #41
                        Muffler valve is a good idea. You have a lot of space under there?
                        ~1992 240SX, SR20/Koni track day car
                        ~2016 M3, daily driver

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                        • #42
                          Not a ton of space. Here’s a German dude’s SW20 with a V6 swap.

                          [img]https://goo.gl/images/Ugcp93[/img]

                          DP on 3S goes from front of engine (forward engine bay side) down below the oil pan, then up over the rear crossmember, then there’s a little bit of space for a transverse muffler setup. I might also be able to squeeze a cat beside the mufflers after the crossmember, but things might be getting tight there.
                          '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                          DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                          http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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                          • #43
                            Bah, stupid google link...
                            '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                            DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                            http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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                            • #44
                              Are you just trying to have a single tip or are you going to preserve the dual exhaust look? I think we need some sweet MS Paint diagrams, this is sounding a little confusing.
                              ~1992 240SX, SR20/Koni track day car
                              ~2016 M3, daily driver

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                              • #45
                                Dual tips definitely.

                                The Vibrant muffler would go 3" > 2.5" dual outlets, and would look exactly like the German dude's layout. I could put a valve on one outlet, but I'm not sure how much that'd muffle things down. Or I could do 2 valves, each cracked open a bit so it's like driving around with a silencer on both tips, that then you get into boost and it ramps in the flow. That'd probably be a little easier to implement.

                                Or the dual magnaflow muffler gives me room to put in a cat (red box, forgot to label it), and maybe position them like this. You can see the valve would go on the "short side" of the transverse muffler, and the unvalved side would proceed through another 5x8x18" body Magnaflow. 2.5" flow with the valve closed, then it could open and it'd be dual 2.5" flow.

                                '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                                DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                                http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

                                Comment

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