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  • Motoria Suspension Links Pre-Install

    Overall they don't look too bad at all. Appears to be 1/8" thick steel on the ends, which should be more than sufficient to not bend through any normal range of motion it'll encounter.
    Between rides...unless you count a WD21...


  • #2
    I have the motoria rucas in my s13 (the 5/8" rod end stuff) and haven't had a problem with them for almost a year. I'm not confident about them, but so far so good :P I need to just get the spl stuff and quit messing around. Alex

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    • #3
      The arms look identical to the older SPL stuff, right down to the ball joints. I've heard stuff about the rear toe links bending, though. I guess I'll carry spares untill I'm sure they'll hold up, but even then, I could just reinforce them. It'd be cooler if I made some aluminum billet arms, though I think these will work, and I'm still tempted to replace all the ball joints. However, they're M16x2.00, which isn't as easy to get in a high quality rod end.

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      • #4
        Out of curiousity...why did they send you S13 and S14 RUCA? Here's pics of my old SPL multilink setup...
        Between rides...unless you count a WD21...

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        • #5
          I've got no clue as to why they sent extra arms.... Anyways, what rear subframe bushings are those?

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          • #6
            Originally posted by AceInHole
            I've got no clue as to why they sent extra arms.... Anyways, what rear subframe bushings are those?
            They are ES bushings. At different points on my S chassis...I had SPL collars, ES bushings, and then SPL solid bushings.
            Between rides...unless you count a WD21...

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            • #7
              Hmm... Energy Suspension doesn't seem to list a full replacement bushing, just an insert (or reuse existing metal pieces?). I'm debating filling my stock subframe bushings with a poly fill, like window seal, and then run subframe inserts in conjunction with that. Ideally I'd like solid poly, as I'm sketchy on running full solid mounts. My reasoning is that some shock absorbtion in the subframe and diff mounts would help reduce the chance of driveline shock or even bumps in the road from upsetting the rear end. Other than that it's also less vibration fatigue on the chassis. Any comments or am I over thinking it and should just run solid?

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              • #8
                Originally posted by AceInHole
                Hmm... Energy Suspension doesn't seem to list a full replacement bushing, just an insert (or reuse existing metal pieces?). I'm debating filling my stock subframe bushings with a poly fill, like window seal, and then run subframe inserts in conjunction with that. Ideally I'd like solid poly, as I'm sketchy on running full solid mounts. My reasoning is that some shock absorbtion in the subframe and diff mounts would help reduce the chance of driveline shock or even bumps in the road from upsetting the rear end. Other than that it's also less vibration fatigue on the chassis. Any comments or am I over thinking it and should just run solid?
                With the collars the subframe could still move slightly. ES bushings are similar to a lot of their motor mount inserts. (2 halves with a metal bushing through the middle) My preference is the solid bushings. Although the poly will allow it to move a little, it would also allow it to whiplash the stud as it gives a little and then recenters. (the ES felt just as rough as the solids as far as vibration is concerned) I have not heard of any fatigue failures as of yet caused by them, but I have heard of a myriad of crack subframes caused by drifting. (usually smacking something)
                Between rides...unless you count a WD21...

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                • #9
                  Richard, I didn't think ES made any inserts for the rear subframe of the S13? Maybe I'm thinking of something else then... I'm sure my subframe bushings are more than shot (167K miles) and that clunking I can still here in the rearend if I launch alittle to hard probably is a good indicator. I'd still prefer to try some collars for the time being and go from there. PJ - what were you running for arms on your last S14?
                  -Monty

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                  • #10
                    You are correct they are not listed for a S13 subframe, but they work just jim dandy=)
                    Originally posted by McCoy
                    Richard, I didn't think ES made any inserts for the rear subframe of the S13? Maybe I'm thinking of something else then... I'm sure my subframe bushings are more than shot (167K miles) and that clunking I can still here in the rearend if I launch alittle to hard probably is a good indicator. I'd still prefer to try some collars for the time being and go from there. PJ - what were you running for arms on your last S14?
                    Between rides...unless you count a WD21...

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by McCoy
                      PJ - what were you running for arms on your last S14?
                      I ran Ebay RUCAs and tension rods with stock arms everywhere else (ES bushings). I felt I could get the alignment that I wanted, so figured I wouldn't gain much in getting all new arms. In retrospect I paid way too much attention to the engine, and not nearly enough attention to dampers/ alignments.

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                      • #12
                        So, I found my rod ends to be M16x2.00, which sucks because there aren't many metric rod end sizes available in the US. The only ones I found from the "major" racing companies are $60 ones from Aurora. I figured I'd use those for the tension rods if it comes to it, but I found another company called Midwest Control Products (http://www.midwestcontrol.com/), that I saw a couple people use in Locost and 4x4 builds. I figured I'd try their performance (chromoly) and teflon lined joints, so hopefully those come in soon and I'll see how they are. Also got the Wicked tie rod ends in. They have 3 piece teflon lined heim joints, so they don't seem too bad. They're M14x1.5 threaded, and have adjustable bumpsteer from stock, .2", and .4". Just have to order the seals-it rod end seals and I'll be good to go.

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                        • #13
                          The McMaster Carr stuff is made by name brand manufacturers (QA1 and another that I can't think of off the top of my head). n/m that one...just checked they are $70 for a 16x2. I haven't seen enough of the Wicked stuff to know whether it's worthwhile or not. If you are willing to drill out your spindle you can get a bumpsteer bolt/spacers (Allstar) for like $20 then you just use a trustworthy 5/8" rod end.
                          Originally posted by AceInHole
                          So, I found my rod ends to be M16x2.00, which sucks because there aren't many metric rod end sizes available in the US. The only ones I found from the "major" racing companies are $60 ones from Aurora. I figured I'd use those for the tension rods if it comes to it, but I found another company called Midwest Control Products (http://www.midwestcontrol.com/), that I saw a couple people use in Locost and 4x4 builds. I figured I'd try their performance (chromoly) and teflon lined joints, so hopefully those come in soon and I'll see how they are. Also got the Wicked tie rod ends in. They have 3 piece teflon lined heim joints, so they don't seem too bad. They're M14x1.5 threaded, and have adjustable bumpsteer from stock, .2", and .4". Just have to order the seals-it rod end seals and I'll be good to go.
                          Between rides...unless you count a WD21...

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                          • #14
                            The problem with using the 5/8" rod end is you'd have to make a new coupler to attach it to the inner tie-rod. If you're running a bolt through it, you could just have an aluminum spacer machined that fits between the spindle and a high grade 14mm bolt. It wouldn't be hard to do on a lathe.

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                            • #15
                              The previous owner of my 240 purchased the C-tune RUCA and from what I remember he replaced the rod ends with the Aurora's. He probably had the same issue you did PJ... as being costly with the metric thread.
                              -Monty

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