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Adding ABS to SM coupe Build

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  • #91
    Originally posted by clotuning View Post
    Oh yea did you end up drilling a hole for front sensor? Or bought different knuckles?

    I'll be drilling the upright. Hopefully by end of week or next week. Not much room for error here given the sensor can't be more than a mm away from ring and holding an upright to drill is awkward.
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    • #92
      Another discovery of the AP2 S2000 vs the BMW MK60 is that the BMW unit doesn't split the inputs from the master cylinder across diagonals on the car where the AP2 (and AP1) unit does. BMW unit splits the inputs front and rear. This is pretty significant from a performance perspective especially if dealing with balancing/proportioning upstream of the ABS module (i.e. Z32 masters, pedal boxes, prop valves, etc).
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      • #93
        That makes more sense now because I read the bmw master cylinder is 25mm front piston and 20mm rear piston.

        Is there a nissan bmc thats similar?

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        • #94
          also these are 17/16 bmc (08 350z) on rockauto.com

          CARDONE SELECT 133160
          ACDELCO 18M2769

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          • #95
            Originally posted by clotuning View Post
            That makes more sense now because I read the bmw master cylinder is 25mm front piston and 20mm rear piston.

            Is there a nissan bmc thats similar?

            Right, they have staggered pistons, and most people jump to the conclusion that they will create different pressures. But, do the math and you will see that the pressures will be the same.

            Here someone measured the pressure of both outlets and confirmed that they are the same:

            http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showp...86&postcount=2


            edit: so with that said, I'm using the Z32 BMC and leaving the internal prop valve in. If the MK60 unit were to ever fault during a race, I'd at least have that mechanical proportioning in place still as a fail safe.
            Last edited by gills; 03-14-2019, 07:44 AM.
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            • #96
              Got the front spindles done with E46 sensors: http://nissanroadracing.com/forum/un...637#post172637
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              • #97
                OK, orientation/clocking of wheel speed sensors matters.


                Notice the orientation of E46 rear speed sensors. The mounting bolt is inline with the direction of rotation of the wheel/tone ring.


                Just to refresh your memory, here's the Nissan diff cover which mounts the sensors 90 degrees from the rotation of the tone rings:


                Here's rear speed sensor plots. Very slight drop offs causing faults and disabling ABS completely. Good news is that the brakes behave the same way they did without ABS at all with the system deactivated.



                Now this seems pretty obvious, but I assumed this was how the E46 sensors were mounted also. When I realized the 90 degree difference and brought it up to company that makes the custom harnesses for these, they said "they believe it shouldn't matter." Since it wasn't a concrete answer my gut knew that this was the issue. I never thought orientation would matter, but it does.

                SO, because there's not really material on the diff cover to just rotate these and have material to drill and tap, I welded some material and milled it flat (I'm getting pretty damn good at removing diffs now!). I did this very quickly with whatever material I could find so it looks a little sh!tty. Just needed it done quickly for my Watkins Glen event.



                Buttoned it all back up, hooked up the scanner and let it run in gear for about 15 minutes. ZERO FAULTS. Here's what the speed signals are supposed to look like:

                Butter smooth:



                In hindsight, perhaps it would've been better to just use the Z33 rear wheel speed sensors. The only customization required is that they need to be shimmed away from the tone ring since they would interfere as is. The depth of the E46 M3 sensor happens to be perfect. Again, pick your poison.
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                • #98
                  Some pictures of my install:






                  My method of plugging the 2nd front port on non-ABS master:
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                  • #99
                    That's a nice looking install, kinda makes me want to redo my install. Are those AN steel fittings ?

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                    • Originally posted by Scores240 View Post
                      That's a nice looking install, kinda makes me want to redo my install. Are those AN steel fittings ?

                      Thanks! Yes, -3 AN steel tube nuts and sleeves with Nickel Copper ("NiCopp") hard line.


                      Did you ever check to see if you were biasing on a diagonal instead of just the rear?

                      Tube nuts: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3235

                      And sleeves that fit underneath to back the flare and protect the tubing: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3236
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                      • gills I haven't checked my ABS plumbing yet, i need to get to that and checking numerous other things with my Brake system.

                        Being sent to China for 4 weeks on work duties has really put a damper on my progress with the car. I had to rebuild my long block and get it all in the car once I got back. Just got it all running this past weekend and now it seriously needs a retune.

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                        • Originally posted by Scores240 View Post
                          gills I haven't checked my ABS plumbing yet, i need to get to that and checking numerous other things with my Brake system.

                          Being sent to China for 4 weeks on work duties has really put a damper on my progress with the car. I had to rebuild my long block and get it all in the car once I got back. Just got it all running this past weekend and now it seriously needs a retune.
                          You'll get to it. Safe travels. Update this thread when you dig a little deeper.
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