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Best Engine for S14 Chassis

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  • #16
    Some of us even have connections with the guys who make harnesses for our cars when doing things like motor swaps...
    '95 240sx

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    • #17
      Struck a nerve did I? Sorry about that but yes I do search and read quite a bit. I also know that those with experience usually can go past the basics and drop a few other ideas along the way.

      Sleepy not sure what your comment is about but trust me as I dig into how my son's car wiring was done it is quite scarey. Loose wires hanging everywhere. I don't think it is a typical swap bought harness at this point. But what do I know, I am sure a lot of fbn companies have come and gone over the years.
      94 Vert on long road to RR recovery
      89 Hatch DD(died in crash)
      96 S14 stock KA/MT DD (replaced 89)

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      • #18
        A nerve ? What do I care, you're the one going to get less help because you took a nerve strike due to the truth.

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        • #19
          Nope I agreed with your statement on the trouble shooting skills, I have plenty of humility and know when to say I haven't a clue. Heck you can search on forums till your eyes bleed and the manuals are great to a point but once you change things its a new deal.

          Take your comments on the swap kits on another thread. It was a good thing to post, most threads I have found have mentioned little about clearances under the car so to see you bringing it up was another piece of the puzzle.

          On another thread I just learned why it might be advantageous to go dry sump on the LS1 now instead of a swap pan. I ask questions and look for answers that are reliable and have substance.

          So no I don't take things seriously and let it get to me I just learn which people to dismiss on the forums by reading their reply's and move on. If you got the commercial reference then you understand that aspect.

          Not sure how somebody telling somebody else they shouldn't be working on the cars is help? If I was paid to do it Yea but in the garage as a hobby Nah, I will keep it enjoyable.
          94 Vert on long road to RR recovery
          89 Hatch DD(died in crash)
          96 S14 stock KA/MT DD (replaced 89)

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          • #20
            As for the original topic of this thread, I think I am going to stay stock KA with this one so it can be used to elevate the driving skill level while the other car is being built up or is down for the weekend.
            94 Vert on long road to RR recovery
            89 Hatch DD(died in crash)
            96 S14 stock KA/MT DD (replaced 89)

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            • #21
              Originally posted by popz View Post
              Nope I agreed with your statement on the trouble shooting skills, I have plenty of humility and know when to say I haven't a clue. Heck you can search on forums till your eyes bleed and the manuals are great to a point but once you change things its a new deal.

              Take your comments on the swap kits on another thread. It was a good thing to post, most threads I have found have mentioned little about clearances under the car so to see you bringing it up was another piece of the puzzle.

              On another thread I just learned why it might be advantageous to go dry sump on the LS1 now instead of a swap pan. I ask questions and look for answers that are reliable and have substance.

              So no I don't take things seriously and let it get to me I just learn which people to dismiss on the forums by reading their reply's and move on. If you got the commercial reference then you understand that aspect.

              Not sure how somebody telling somebody else they shouldn't be working on the cars is help? If I was paid to do it Yea but in the garage as a hobby Nah, I will keep it enjoyable.

              I wasn't saying that you shouldn't be working on cars, I was referring to the majority of people who attempt swap harnesses themselves, generally just because where they found some "write up" done by someone who doesn't have a clue what they're doing, as you've seen simply starting up and running doesn't mean it's done right, fully functional, will last, and won't start a fire.

              As far as the dry sump thing goes, are you going to be doing serious track days with sustained duration turns ? This is where you're likely to see issues, and there are enough other aspects of the swap to sort out that I'd highly recommend not adding another hurdle to tackle in with all of the others, IMO use a mount setup that uses the GTO pan, and get the improved racing baffle.

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              • #22
                Sorry if I misinterpreted a bit. I am hoping to get a lot of track time out of it however since my heads will be here this week I am going to stick to a winged pan and let things evolve down the road so i can get the initial project done.

                S-14 sub frame just showed up yesterday so I have to get that cleaned up and sent out for powder coating and start building that up.
                94 Vert on long road to RR recovery
                89 Hatch DD(died in crash)
                96 S14 stock KA/MT DD (replaced 89)

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                • #23
                  I just started tracking the S14 that the company I work for used to develop the LS2 swap I have in my S14. Get the Hooker Headers engine swap mount kit and long tube headers (mild steel or stainless). They work very well and altogether they are cheaper to install the engine when coupled with a Canton racing oil pan when compared with the Sikky kit.

                  I like the LS engine because it fits in the S13 S14 engine bays very easily, is easy to work on, doesn't have a turbo hanging off of it (no offense turbo guys whatsoever) where you could have to deal with boost leaks/couplers/that sort of thing). And while you can achieve nice torque with those engines with nicer twin scroll turbos, the robust quantities or torque these cars have make them a blast to drive.

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                  • #24
                    Forgot to mention that Holley also has tremendously awesome fuel injection systems now. Look up the Holley HP and Dominator EFI systems. They are self learning EFI systems with plug and play harnesses which greatly reduce the amount of time (if any) spent on a dyno after the install.

                    Here's a link to our page if you're interested.

                    https://www.holley.com/products/ls_p...s_efi_systems/

                    Here is the link for the 240 swap stuff also:
                    https://www.holley.com/products/ls_p...ap_components/

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                    • #25
                      Thanks.
                      I am still on the fence with the swap kit for my vert. I am in the middle between the sikky and the fueled racing kit. Honestly wasn't thinking on the Hooker system yet due to the completeness of the other kits available.
                      94 Vert on long road to RR recovery
                      89 Hatch DD(died in crash)
                      96 S14 stock KA/MT DD (replaced 89)

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                      • #26
                        The real area in which the Hooker kit shines is that it's more economically priced. Sourcing a Canton pan isn't difficult for the swap, and our headers are offered in stainless as well. Our trans crossmembers are much thicker when compared to the other kits also, unless they have remedied that in recent months. Either way you go, I'm sure you'll enjoy it. I know I do!

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by eye-5 View Post
                          Where a 240sx is the car to have for class. However, the current champ is on a built, turbo KA. Not to mention, the class requires a bit of commitment, a chunk of change and some good driving. That being said, I'm campaigning it in a SR20DET 240 and having a blast.
                          Any info on the turbo KA?
                          - Phil
                          1995 240sx | KA24DE-T 309whp, 368lb-ft

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                          • #28
                            Both aceinhole and Jason Merritt are making big power with turbo KAs. I don't know the ins and outs of their builds. Built long blocks and good turbos.
                            Chicago Region SCCA SM # 688 http://www.scca-chicago.com
                            TSSCC SM # 688 http://www.tsscc.org

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by s14blane View Post
                              The real area in which the Hooker kit shines is that it's more economically priced. Sourcing a Canton pan isn't difficult for the swap, and our headers are offered in stainless as well. Our trans crossmembers are much thicker when compared to the other kits also, unless they have remedied that in recent months. Either way you go, I'm sure you'll enjoy it. I know I do!
                              Thanks for the info on the kit. I saw Hooker was making one now, but didn't know what else was needed to fill it out and how it compared. Granted I realize there's some bias (no offense meant) but you're point out specifics.

                              Are you running you car over at NCM? I'm running around w/ NASA Midwest / Great Lakes / Central regions. I'm in Evansville.

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by Hardrvin View Post
                                Thanks for the info on the kit. I saw Hooker was making one now, but didn't know what else was needed to fill it out and how it compared. Granted I realize there's some bias (no offense meant) but you're point out specifics.

                                Are you running you car over at NCM? I'm running around w/ NASA Midwest / Great Lakes / Central regions. I'm in Evansville.
                                Right on. Yes I am. I've had the car on the track several times up till now. I've actually just removed the engine to rebuild it in time for the USCA event that'll be taking place in June at NCM.

                                Fun track. Definitely check it out if you get the opportunity.

                                To answer your question, the Hooker kit comes with the engine mount plates, and the trans crossmember. The oil pan can be purchased from Canton. The Hooker Headers are very high quality and fitment is top notch. Lifts make installation/removal a cinch, but I just took removed mine in the garage on jackstands so it's not a huge deal either way.

                                For oil lines I used a remote mount adapter from Earl's and routed it to the drivers wheel well. Everything has performed great thus far.
                                Last edited by s14blane; 01-06-2016, 09:40 PM. Reason: spelling error

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