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Source for S13 rear subframe parts

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  • Source for S13 rear subframe parts

    I have a completely disassembled non-hicas S13 rear subframe I plan to swap for the hicas subframe currently in the car. The problem is when I purchased the subframe none of the bolts to assemble it were included.
    Is there a source where I can buy a set of bolts? Is it possible to get just the camber and toe bolts and then use grade-8 bolts for everything else? Would it be more cost effective to skip the camber and toe bolts and replace those arms with adjustable after market units or modify the stock units by adding rod ends to them?
    Wheelman (Ken Wheeler)
    73 240Z, LT1, 5-Speed
    92 240SX SE, KA24DE-T

  • #2
    If you're swapping subframes go with an S14 one. The anti-squat geometry is better.

    As for the bolts, class 10.9 12mm bolts of the right length will work. Don't use class 8.8. There is no such thing as a grade 8 metric bolt.

    Why not just use the bolts on your existing subframe?
    '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


    DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
    http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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    • #3
      I'd go with an S14 unit but I already have the S13 one.
      Good point about the metric bolts, I didn't even think about that aspect of the question.
      I could use the ones from my current subframe, except for the toe arms (they are different on a hicas unit) but I'd like to pass that on as a complete unit when I sell it if possible, assuming I can sell it.
      I found Courtesy Nissan has the parts I need, but man do they want lot for them, guess they're really proud of them.
      Wheelman (Ken Wheeler)
      73 240Z, LT1, 5-Speed
      92 240SX SE, KA24DE-T

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      • #4
        Use West Covina Nissan.
        www.thenismoshop.com

        Better pricing and service for me every time.
        Originally posted by Matt93SE
        in engrish, it's all about the length of your shaft... :P

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        • #5
          Unless you want the eccentric bolts, why not just buy SAE grade 8 bolts from McMaster Carr or Fastenal?

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          • #6
            Because all the arms and bolt holes (OEM and aftermarket) are 12mm - not an SAE size.
            '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


            DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
            http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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            • #7
              Aware. But exactly how bit are the holes? What I was getting at was he can either drill them out or, yes, simply buy 12mm bolts as well instead of going with the nissan stuff.

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              • #8
                we have some hardware stores that have "bolt rooms" where they can match damn near any bolt, you bring them the bolt or a proper description ( Grade, Pitch, threaded length, head type, shoulder (if applicable) etc.) and they bring out the goods.

                There are also websites (mcmaster.com is one) where you can buy the bolts based on their size grade etc.....


                Long story short, if you do the leg work the bolts can be had fairly inexpensively.

                If nissan does the leg work....well then you are giving them something to be proud of because they did the work you couldn't do.

                So choose you own path.
                I am SKULLWORKS

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                • #9
                  i can source you the bolts 10.9 grade with crush nuts so they dont come loose

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                  • #10
                    If you need an eccentric lockout kit, I do sell them for Toe and Camber. Cheaper than anyone on the market. $47 shipped with paypal fee's

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                    • #11
                      I found that u can use a 1/2 washer and an 12mm washer and you have yourself a lock out kit for less money

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                      • #12
                        make sure you buy deformed thread nuts, if you're going to try and piece something together from mcmaster.

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                        • #13
                          Since the last post I visited a local fastener supply store and pickup a bunch of 12mm bolts with self locking nuts and washers to put everything together. The need for the "camber" adjustment bolts is gone now as I decided to buy a set of arms. I'll take a look at using 1/2" and 12mm washers as was suggested but most likely I'll just weld 12mm washers to the subframe and call it good.

                          Thanks for all the offers guys, I appreciate it.
                          Wheelman (Ken Wheeler)
                          73 240Z, LT1, 5-Speed
                          92 240SX SE, KA24DE-T

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                          • #14
                            I welded washers on mine no sissies haha

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