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  • Unique Swaybar Problem

    I think I am the first person to run across this issue. I am presenting it here to get opinions on what I should do.

    I went to install my def-modified godspeed FLCA's today. Problem is, the sway bar mount hole on these is about 1 inch rearward from the factory FLCA mount hole. Normally not a problem, but with my brand front sway bar (Energy suspension) and my DAFT LS1 swap relocation brackets, this does not work. The DAFT sway bar spacers move the D brackets about 1 inch forward of stock and down about 1 inch from stock, so that the bar clears the oil pan. THis means that the sway bar end link is misaligned by 2 inches.

    I went to order a Sikky swap bar to fix this (gets rid of the DAFT spacers), but it is back ordered by 3 weeks.

    I have a track day in 4 weeks.

    I think I can get ahold of a stock front sway, but I do not know if it is going to work either.

    Is there any swaybarless setup that has met good success for anyone?

    I guess I can always go back to my factory FLCA's if my sikky bar does not arrive in time, but I was hoping to have the benefit of the roll center correction.

    I need to get the car aligned now that I installed the GS FLCA's. Is getting the car aligned without a sway bar going to have any effect? Can I add the sway bar later with no issues?
    1992 LS13
    385whp/370tq

  • #2
    get you some 1" angle iron. cut it in pieces about 1" long. drill some 3/8" holes in each side. bolt one of each to the sway bar and the control arm.

    get you a pair of 3/8" male and 3/8" female rod ends with studs pressed in. screw them together.

    buy another set for me since I need to do the same thing with mine.
    Originally posted by SoSideways
    I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
    '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
    '96 240SX- The Track Toy

    Comment


    • #3
      My whiteline sway bar holes are also to far rearwards. I just drilled an extra holw to make it stiffer, & made a slotted bracket along with 3/8" rod ends and misalignment spacers to keep the end links vertical at static ride height. You don't want the endlinks to go over center or have unintentional preload.

      Comment


      • #4
        Daft, sikky, ****ty.

        I dont understand, My LS is mounted, my stock bar fits, I dont have any silly relocation blocks or other bull****, no custom bar.

        They're just doing it wrong

        Comment


        • #5
          you have a stock bar, that's the problem.
          Originally posted by SoSideways
          I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
          '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
          '96 240SX- The Track Toy

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Matt93SE View Post
            you have a stock bar, that's the problem.
            Stock bar doesnt clear with those other "kits" either

            Comment


            • #7
              http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i5...er_media_share

              For some reason I can't copy the direct image link from photovucket on my iPhone... Stupid software sucks.
              1992 LS13
              385whp/370tq

              Comment


              • #8
                Just rock some steel angle on that and use some spherical endlinks. But why if your bar's ends rotated 90 degs from stock/every other bar I've seen.
                '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

                Comment


                • #9
                  That's the way the Sus Tech bars are. I hate it as well. keep meaning to get some 3/8" plate and cut some ends like the progress bar and weld onto the ends of mine.
                  Originally posted by SoSideways
                  I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
                  '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
                  '96 240SX- The Track Toy

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I ran my car on an auto-x without a front sway bar and it was absolutely terrible idea. Definitely get a sway bar in there with whatever rate vs not having one!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Yea, no front sway bar sucks a big one. Our cars need lots of front roll stiffness. I don't think you can get a fast setup that doesn't use one, as the car would suck balls over bumps.
                      '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                      DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                      http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Pretty unrelated due to differences in sway bar mounting, but I found that my e46 (lowered on bilsteins without adjustable sway bar links) has much MORE front roll stiffness without the sway bar.

                        I was doing some maintenance which required the removal of the bar, so I figured I'd try driving the car without it, since I was pretty sure the lowered ride height was adding preload to the bar. I'm definitely going to order or fab some adjustable sway bar links now.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          What angle should the sway bar be at to the ground? I'm trying to figure out how tall my end links need to be. Should it be about horizontal to the ground with the car on the wheels? My rideheight is pretty high all around, I might lower it slightly (1 inch) or so, but even then it would be considered high by most standards. In this case should I angle the bar down slightly at current height?
                          1992 LS13
                          385whp/370tq

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