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  • Another "Lifting inside rear tire" thread...

    I know I know, not another one of these threads right?
    Well ever since I've put my coils on (Fortune Auto 500 Series) I've been lifting my inside rear tire doing anything that involves taking a turn. Weather it's braking in, pure cornering, even drifting. I lift the inside rear tire doing anything besides going straight.

    I read the few threads on here that covered this but I didn't see a true solution to this, unless I missed it somewhere and didn't under stand. Here are somethings I read that may help with lifting inside rear tire.
    - Rear Helper Springs
    - Dis-connect Rear Sway Bar (I don't have one - Base Model S14)
    - Spherical Bushings to eliminate Bind (Exception of RLCA)
    - Less Anti-Squat (I think I read this - I believe Nismo Sub-Frame Bushings have Less Anti-Squat Dialed in)

    But I didnt pick up on anything that eliminated it, most was just helping the situation but often still remained. So I was wondering if anyone has come up with a solution yet or if it's still under R&D/T&E.

    Set-Up:
    S14 Base Model
    Stock Front Sway Bar
    Stock Bushings
    No Rear Sway Bar
    SPC Front Tension Rods
    SPC Rear Toe-Rods
    ES Rack Bushings
    Fortune Auto 500 Series Coils (7/6 Springs)

    I know my suspension is FAR from being superior or anything close to that but it's what I have for now. I do plan on doing the following:
    Tanabe Front Sway Bar
    Yamato Garage Traction & RUCA's
    ES Bushings All Around
    Nismo Rear Sub-Frame Bushings (Less Anti-Squat)

    Though I don't think those mods are gonna solve the lifting inside tire issue as some of the others asking had more suspension mods done then this. So I just wanna know what's your guys input on kepping the inside rear tire planted.


  • #2
    Get some tender springs with a decent rate. You have probably 0.75" of droop travel with your coil overs - that's your problem. No amount of sway bar changing or anything like that will fix the big problem.
    '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


    DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
    http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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    • #3
      Yeah I figured that was my main problem cause it doesn't droop at all really like you mentioned. What are good tender springs? I was thinking Swift but I also saw that Tanabe makes a set for a fair price.

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      • #4
        http://www.more-japan.com/product.ph...at=1070&page=1

        Buy a set of those and let us know how they are. The rates are enough to push your wheel down in a corner. Plus it'll be much easier to get up inclines.
        '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


        DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
        http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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        • #5
          Yeah those were the ones I was looking at. Also since I'm taking the rear coils apart, my front are making a kind of spring binding noise and I was wondering if a Torrington Bearing would get rid of that if it is the spring binding. It makes the noise when I turn the wheel.

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          • #6
            Yes, a torrington bearing up front will fix the spring popping.
            '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


            DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
            http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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            • #7
              Thanks
              Hopefully this thread wasn't useless and a complete waste of forum server space

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              • #8
                For what it's worth, it seemed to help the rear when I put stiffer springs in the front. I have done so many things that I don't really know what cured what but I have pretty stiff springs all the way around and no tender springs, yet no inside tire lift. I would know it with a helical because I would quit moving.

                The other thing that made the most difference was fixing the front roll center. This, along with Def's bearings, S14 subframe and Bilsteins cured the issue entirely. Don't know which did what but doing everything is one answer.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by logr View Post
                  For what it's worth, it seemed to help the rear when I put stiffer springs in the front. I have done so many things that I don't really know what cured what but I have pretty stiff springs all the way around and no tender springs, yet no inside tire lift. I would know it with a helical because I would quit moving.

                  The other thing that made the most difference was fixing the front roll center. This, along with Def's bearings, S14 subframe and Bilsteins cured the issue entirely. Don't know which did what but doing everything is one answer.
                  I second the stiffer front springs. I found the car was rolling way too much in the front and that would cause the rear to lift. No tender springs and yet to install Def's sphericals. Here is a pic to prove it's working.

                  Chicago Region SCCA SM # 688 http://www.scca-chicago.com
                  TSSCC SM # 688 http://www.tsscc.org

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                  • #10
                    ^ nice pic, what spring rates? i think you said that this was on street tires.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by logr View Post
                      For what it's worth, it seemed to help the rear when I put stiffer springs in the front. I have done so many things that I don't really know what cured what but I have pretty stiff springs all the way around and no tender springs, yet no inside tire lift. I would know it with a helical because I would quit moving.

                      The other thing that made the most difference was fixing the front roll center. This, along with Def's bearings, S14 subframe and Bilsteins cured the issue entirely. Don't know which did what but doing everything is one answer.
                      You're right on in that there are a bunch of things which help the situation.

                      Front roll center correction keeps the roll angle down, and stiffer springs up front do more of the same.

                      IMO tender springs are always a good idea in the rear though. Droop travel starts getting scarce when you start getting to rates that most of us run.
                      '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                      DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                      http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by hai1206vn View Post
                        ^ nice pic, what spring rates? i think you said that this was on street tires.
                        I'm now running 10k up front and 6k in the rear. I may put the stock rear bar back on now. Maybe get some tender springs just in case for next year. Correct, Kumo XS street tires for this event.

                        The springs were only $120 shipped so it was the cheapest, easiest fix for me. I spend too much on tires and events to be always spending on parts.
                        Chicago Region SCCA SM # 688 http://www.scca-chicago.com
                        TSSCC SM # 688 http://www.tsscc.org

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by eye-5 View Post
                          I second the stiffer front springs. I found the car was rolling way too much in the front and that would cause the rear to lift. No tender springs and yet to install Def's sphericals. Here is a pic to prove it's working.

                          I think some Driftwork knuckles would fix that (or other roll center adjustment)! And besides, you could drop the front rates a lil bit with the geometry correction and play with sway bar settings to get more ride compliance over bumpy surfaces.

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                          • #14
                            My ride is actually really compliant over bumps. It rides softer than a stock S2k.

                            I should play with some roll center adjustments. For now I just don't lower too much and it handles pretty good but could use some improvement for sure.

                            I was looking at the the spindles but I don't believe they are legal for SCCA SM class that I run. Maybe someone can chime in. We are not allowed to change the pickup points of the suspension.
                            Chicago Region SCCA SM # 688 http://www.scca-chicago.com
                            TSSCC SM # 688 http://www.tsscc.org

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                            • #15
                              i can attest to the lifting issue on my s14, i had nismo bushings on my z32 rear knuckles as well as a set of Zeal shocks; which were shorter than stock & had limited droop, this was the most jacked up feeling especially with a Quaife diff. i have now switched to AST 5100's with helper springs, which have practically the O.E. amount of droop & then changed to Def/Tower sphericals , now i have to really be aggressive around a hairpin in order to get the inside to lift, or feel the rear pause & catch (450pound front springs & 400 rear, progress bar front no rear bar, helper springs all around, i did notice when i corner weight car & at the current ride height the rear helpers are'nt preloaded under full droop, they are a little loose, i wonder if this affects the lifting issue)

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