Water Temps

[jmauld]

For any of you that autocross with a KA, where are your water temps right after a run?

Please include where you have your water temperature sensor.

[ecugrad]

For any of you that autocross with a KA, where are your water temps right after a run?

Please include where you have your water temperature sensor.

What were you seeing yesterday?

Mine barely gets to 180° but I think I have a bustified sensor.

[jmauld]

I hit 195 by the end of an autocross run. The part that bothers me is that it just gets hotter after each run and it was only 83 yesterday.

Les says it stayed cool on the drive home.

[Def]

Get a higher capacity electric fan(either push or pull) for your radiator and it should cool things down between runs.

[ecugrad]

Get a higher capacity electric fan(either push or pull) for your radiator and it should cool things down between runs.

Or the lazy bastard could install that Aluminum radiator sitting in his garage :confused:

[jmauld]

Ryan, that al. radiator dumps me into SM, where you forfeit your chance for 1st place.

How effective are things like header wrap at keeping temps down? Is it just a waste of time?

[Def]

It does a good job of keeping bay temps down, but won't make a bit of difference to water temps.

Your problem is that you're running the car hard then don't have much airflow through the radiator when you're on grid waiting for your next run.

[AceInHole]

Ryan, that al. radiator dumps me into SM, where you forfeit your chance for 1st place.

SM is cake compared to DSP in my Region (at least while Daddio isn't running his Evo):
http://www.axwaresystems.com/axorm/files/NERSCCA/event2_fin.htm#SM
vs.
http://www.axwaresystems.com/axorm/files/NERSCCA/event2_fin.htm#DSP

1st place DSP: 2nd at 2007 ProSolo DSP (4th at Nats)
2nd place DSP: 2x DSP National Champ
(Both of the above have a newly rebuilt motor with what seems to be significantly more power)
3rd place DSP: 1st at 2007 ProSolo STS

(To be fair, I'm still at 7psi boost, eyeballed alignment, and on on 200 run Kumhos while everyone in DSP runs fresher Hoosiers :P)

How effective are things like header wrap at keeping temps down? Is it just a waste of time?
Header wrap will keep the bay temps down.... but I doubt they'd have a serious affect on water temps.

- What fans are you running?
- What T-stat are you running?

Those are pretty much the only things you can change on a DSP car for cooling. I'm assuming you've already bled coolant numerous times, and checked that the water pump belt isn't skipping (I had that problem once... luckily the belt didn't shred completely untill the finish!). If you can take the belt off, check that the pulley isn't wobbling, either (pump could be going bad?).

[Abstrak0ne]

I don't have an after market temp gauge but I have noticed a difference when using Redline water wetter. Living in Hawaii, I don't worry too much about water freezing.

Currently have a bottle of Redline Water Wetter, Bottle of Prestone Cooling System Treatment and straight water. I wish I could give you actual temps but normal operating temps does not go past the 3rd notch on the stock temp gauge.

[Def]

The stock gauge is worthless unfortunately. I've had temps go up to over 210 deg F on the upper outlet and never saw it budge.

[vw_nissan]

So what's the best place to put your aftermarket water temp sensor? I have mine at the upper radiator hose, but the reading seems to be off as it reads 150 F when the stock guage reads normal.....:confused:

[e1_griego]

Yeah, that's how the stock gauge reads.

My autometer sender is in the upper hose as well. When the autometer just starts to register temp (100ish*), the dummy gauge goes to the middle. It stays at the middle until ~220*+. Almost entirely useless.

Alex

[ecugrad]

The PO of my car took the stock sender out and mounted the autometer sender there.

I am gonna put the stock sender back in and install the autometer in the water neck by the t-stat.

Drill, tap and done.

[AceInHole]

It seems that the stock KA (at least the 1995) has 2 coolant temp sensors: 1 for the gauge, and 1 for the ECU. The ECU sensor is a 2-wire unit, and the gauge sender is a 1-wire unit next to it. Is there anyway to replace the stock sender, or tap into the ECU's sender? I was planning on just swapping out the stock sender for an aftermarket one, and plopping a new gauge into the cluster (plopping = cutting, fitting, molding).

[turtl631]

JohnGriff on zilvia (RPSport.com) is making a digi gauge that will fit in the stock gauge location and read the stock sensor. It'll have a warning LED also. He's trying to keep in under $90. This was the thread, but he deleted pics (it was a rough mockup) http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=186428&page=3

[Def]

The stock sender for the ECU is fairly accurate. I'd say +/- 2-3 deg C, and fairly repeatable.

[Epstein]

The stock ECU sender is 100% repeatable and precise (notice how I didn't say accurate). I've got my defi water temp gauge in place of the old cluster sensor, right next to the ECU sensor. The Defi differs from my Greddy MSS and Consult readouts of the stock 2-wire sensor by 2*, and tracks perfectly with it. If you have a way to read the stock ECU sensor, I'd trust it fully.

I have seen the RPS gauge and thing that's a nice upgrade. I just wonder about differences in ground potential and accuracy being that it's a 1-wire sensor (last I checked). Not that 1-2* of temp will the difference between losing a motor or not.

[Def]

I would never say 100% repeatable... as I'm betting there's some hysteresis in the sensor. But yea, it's pretty repeatable.

[turtl631]

The RPS digital gauge will read from the stock ECU 2-wire sensor.

http://www.zilvia.net/f/showpost.php?p=1956919&postcount=48