S13 sr20-VE build

[konjiki7]

The purpose of this thread is to gather information about the sr20ve head swap in a organized helpful manner to those who maybe considering this upgrade.

Why you should care...

The stock sr20det head flows 188.3 @ .300 lift a fully ported sr20det head flows 253.6 @ .300. A stock VE head flows 329 @ .300.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-m6nkUXAPjx0/TuJdLlv3mjI/AAAAAAAAAqI/1x7bFd0AZ1Y/s800/IMG955656.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-wBvF71T7Tso/TuJdKTfsupI/AAAAAAAAAqA/b60iG1OL808/s800/IMG950789.jpg
I should be getting this guy soon.

VE swap parts list
sr16ve,sr20ve head $300-550 or $600-1200 for the complete motor-set shipped.
VE Oil pump cover $220
VVL relocate $160.
Water-neck $100.00
CAS
1.Hall Effect kit $450-460+ head machining (free or $60-150
2.Sr20ve 20v CAS dizzy $320-450
Intake manifold
1.New manifold $1000
2.Bolt on plenum $320 w/stock runners
3.Cut and Re-weld stock plenum $75-160
Oil lines $60-150
oil pickup
1.s14/s13 oil pickup needs to be slightly longer and less angled $50-80
2. widen or slot s13/s14 oil pickup mounting holes (pickup depth then stock)
Crank Pulley spacer $12-20
Exhaust stud difference
1.sr20det manifold mod (free if you have the tools) or $75-145
2.new manifold $800-1000
3.Cut and weld VE flange $145-250

Website below is a great resource
www.gspec.com/

[konjiki7]

When installing the VE head higher oil pressure is need to activate the VVL so the VE oil pump is NECESSARY. Two obstacle are presented when swapping the VE oil pump cover.


1. Crank pulley will hit the VE oil pump cover so a spacer will be necessary.

2. Oil pickup height is decreases so it must be lengthened.

The crank pulley spacer

The VE oil pump drive collar on the left is much larger then the DE oil pump drive collar on the right. A spacer to make up the difference is necessary.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IEinHF-loa8/TuYHtPMI_hI/AAAAAAAAAq0/2aRvaVoVIoU/s800/Pulley%252520details.png

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-GArvK2Xuy1g/TuYHtAomypI/AAAAAAAAAqw/cZs6LW2aXS4/s800/pict2480.jpg

http://www.gspec.com/p-5988-oil-pump-drive-pulley-spacer-sr20.aspx

The crank spacer looks like this. It just stops the pulley from resting on the oil pump cover.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6OQESFAIxw8/Tua8VaAbmEI/AAAAAAAAAuQ/X09S19tUiXw/s144/5988_3_.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-LHOUxrv5xYk/Tua8ZJTFI7I/AAAAAAAAAuU/cauAWVeOxME/s800/13331_241999410099_719285099_4771585_3968404_n.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ElN6RvdhmcA/Tua8ZLdb1pI/AAAAAAAAAt4/_Y104rUkHCE/s800/13331_241999255099_719285099_4771567_1660265_n.jpg


The oil pump pickup

Will need to be extended do to the location on the VE oil pump cover. The modification should look something like this.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-0QMTGsllZ5E/TuYjY0LCQUI/AAAAAAAAArc/pNeZ5BGUZH0/s288/vvl_13.jpg vs https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-eT0yMU2Fw04/TuYpuMj0CSI/AAAAAAAAAr4/WPyVnUMEIno/s288/Nissan_15050-65F01_02.jpg
VE pickup on left and sr20det pickup on right

Blocking the unused oil gallery


You can drill and tap, then install a bung into this gallery or you can welded it and machine it off. Below are the pics of drilling and tapping (borrowed from TAARK's build up on nissansilvia.com)

A 11/16" drill bit can be used widen the existing hole

Thread the hole using a 1/2" NPT tap
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-nbqqgcuRftw/Tu-x2tnwguI/AAAAAAAAAxg/0KkofyiJuHY/s288/P3140045.jpg
Then screw in an earls plug.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-K9ek28gzcNg/Tu-x2hgZHyI/AAAAAAAAAxU/o1K5oeuYmPo/s288/P3140043.jpg
The same tap can be used for the oil turbo oil drain in the block for 1/2" to -10 AN fitting. This could simple your turbo build depending on the setup.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-YQWrbaCoOLU/Tu-yZBI-ytI/AAAAAAAAAxo/PBTJyn3mwMk/s288/P3140048.jpg

DIY cas Dizzy

Content coming soon

[Def]

Does the GTi-R oil pump need the pickup messed with? It seems a bit easier to adapt to a RWD block, or the only guy I've seen post up anything about it omitted a bunch of steps.

It's got a bigger gear than the VE pump.


Thoughts on using an S14/S15 pump for the VE head? It's got a slightly larger gear than the S13 pump from what I hear.



Additionally, does the VVL system have a ton of leakage or something when activated?

[konjiki7]

Does the GTi-R oil pump need the pickup messed with? It seems a bit easier to adapt to a RWD block, or the only guy I've seen post up anything about it omitted a bunch of steps.

It's got a bigger gear than the VE pump.


Thoughts on using an S14/S15 pump for the VE head? It's got a slightly larger gear than the S13 pump from what I hear.



Additionally, does the VVL system have a ton of leakage or something when activated? http://www.sr20-forum.com/turbo/48901-best-stock-sr20-oil-pump.html. GTI-R owners normally upgrade to the VE oil pumps for the increased pressure.

VE>GTI-R>S15/14>s13

It's possible to widen the sr20det pickup mounting whole and adjust to make it work. I've read post on guys reving to 8k using the s13 pickup... I'm going to stick to lengthening an s14 pickup though.

[konjiki7]

How Neo VVL works by supercowboy from sr20 forums

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-KTkTi2nCdQ4/Tual6pNHmuI/AAAAAAAAAs8/srChoyKLlGU/s800/f964205d.jpgPic #1

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-7sMSX9yyEUM/Tual5y3bPcI/AAAAAAAAAtU/lH8M-dx-yGs/s800/f9642061.jpgPic #2

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_Gigtc_ZGTw/Tual508oOOI/AAAAAAAAAtQ/r0Utt5gxCaA/s800/DSC00186.jpg Pic #3

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-udfIbNG0AAM/Tual52x5ueI/AAAAAAAAAtM/ko3ApPJnosg/s800/f964205c.jpgPic #4

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-H1SVWKVMoQ4/Tual6N6ZfmI/AAAAAAAAAtI/i5ePbJSqoCc/s800/f963df62.jpgPic #5

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jegzcocYkN0/Tual6VmDfAI/AAAAAAAAAtE/tlw8_Cptnp4/s800/DSC00195.jpg

Here is a quick explaination of how the VVL valvetrain works. If you notice in pic#5 (The shaft in the center). This shaft runs through the head from one end to the other. This shaft does not spin and is staked by a small bolt at the cam gear side of the head. There is a Channel that runs the length of the shaft. The end of the shaft is blocked off. There are four feed holes, which are located at each rocker arm location. The rocker arms are located on a pair of valves. The other end of the rocker arm pivots on the shaft. Notice The "whole" or the channel the shaft runs through (Pic#1). As the solenoid(top of pic#5) is activated, there is a passage in the head that opens and allows the oil to pass through the shaft. At this point the oil passes through the feed wholes (Notice pic#2) into the rocker arms. This pushes the pin foward in the rocker arm. (notice pic#3) This locks the center part of the rocker arm which enables the center cam lobe. Notice pic #4. This engine works completely different than a DE. There are no "lifters" pushing the rocker arms up. The shaft is machined at the proper height for the rocker to swivel or rotate on. The lash adjustment is adjusted by the shims on top of the valves. This is a completely mechanical operating system. The only hydraulic part of this set up is the pin which enables the center part of the rocker arm to activate.

Hopefully this answers some questions.

[Def]

I understand it works via the rocker locking everything to the big lobe, but I'm asking if it leaks when in operation? It doesn't sound like it's anything more than a tight slip fit, so it probably does leak quite a bit which would explain the need for a higher volume oil pump.

[konjiki7]

I understand it works via the rocker locking everything to the big lobe, but I'm asking if it leaks when in operation? It doesn't sound like it's anything more than a tight slip fit, so it probably does leak quite a bit which would explain the need for a higher volume oil pump.I believe so but i haven't found or received a solid answer to that myself.

[Def]

VE pump is much larger internally with multiple compartments also the inlet and outlet bore are larger. GTI-R owners normally upgrade to the VE oil pumps for the increased flow.

VE>GTI-R>S15/14>s13

It's possible to widen the sr20det pickup mounting whole and adjust to make it work. I've read post on guys reving to 8k using the s13 pickup... I'm going to stick to lengthening an s14 pickup though.

I've got my doubts on that. The GTi-R pump gear is both wider AND larger in diameter vs. the VE pump IIRC. That's the primary relationship with pump volume.

[konjiki7]

I corrected my post above. The GTI-R does produce great volume but not the same pressure levels as the VE.

http://www.sr20-forum.com/general-sr20/47889-best-stock-oil-pump.html

[s14vet]

I know I haven't been on in awhile but looks like you're getting the gist' of things. I should be putting mine all together here shortly. The only thing I lack in getting my car done engine wise, is the one piece alum g35/sr driveshaft, the efr and downpipe, an ati damper, and the vmount setup. Pm me if you have any questions that can't be answered. I've got plates too if you need them, got them in a trade with mazworx, I won't be using them as I've got the p12 setup. And xcessive manufacturing makes a nice bolt on plenum btw. Also let me know if you need some coils and don't feel like going splitfire, I have some oem p12 coils.

[konjiki7]

Thanks :D and feel free to chime in.

[Def]

BTW, just double checking since most "RWD VE Experts" seem to not know any details strangely enough.


But you could use the VE oil pump, S13 DET oil pump drive, G-Spec VE drive spacer, then face the back of the DET pump by about 3/16-1/4" (no solid numbers out there, will probably have to measure for myself)?

[Def]

Also, DET headgasket is fine as long as you plug the the bits that aren't used (VVL oil supply on bottom of head, oil drain galley in head, drain in the DET block that isn't used on back)?

I can't seem to find much info on coolant passage differences, so I'm assuming they're the same roughly. I know the P12 changed that up somehow, but the P11 seems about the same as earlier DETs from casual jpeg viewing of headgaskets.

[konjiki7]

BTW, just double checking since most "RWD VE Experts" seem to not know any details strangely enough.


But you could use the VE oil pump, S13 DET oil pump drive, G-Spec VE drive spacer, then face the back of the DET pump by about 3/16-1/4" (no solid numbers out there, will probably have to measure for myself)?I haven't taken my block apart yet but i'm expecting it to be the same size as the de oil pump drive .

Greg from gspec mentioned that the same det pulley would need to have material moved. The same amount would need to be same as the thickness of the spacer. This would align pulleys and belts.

Apparently he makes a kit for the rwd setup that he doesn't have on his site yet, its all aluminum. I think i'm going stick with a harmonic damper setup though.

[Def]

So many FWD guys are running aluminum crank pulleys that it doesn't seem to be a big deal for SRs. 4 cyl cranks are short enough where the natural frequency is usually very high. Long I6 cranks tend to ring quite a bit with an aluminum crank pulley, but I've seen tons of them last lots of track miles without issue.

I don't have a reliable "big lathe" hookup here, so it might be about the same price in the end.

[Matt93SE]

Fwiw, I've been running an asp crank pulley on my ka for 6+ years now , spinning it to the rev limiter almost every shift and its still going.....

[turtl631]

Seems like maybe this is an issue like nitpicking what oil you run on bobistheoilguy.com- realistically, something else is gonna kill your motor before the slight inferiority of Mobil1 or a nondampened crank pulley does.

[Def]

Seems like maybe this is an issue like nitpicking what oil you run on bobistheoilguy.com- realistically, something else is gonna kill your motor before the slight inferiority of Mobil1 or a nondampened crank pulley does.

Like a 21 yr old o-ring blowing out and causing you to spin and start an insta-grass fire? Yea... those are the things that keep me up at night. Not if my crank will maybe pass its 2nd harmonic peak at 8900-9200 RPM briefly.

Which btw, that's why 4 banger cranks don't mind solid pulleys much, their 2nd harmonic is well beyond what most rev to. I6s have 2nd harmonics around the 6.8-7.4k RPM range. Which is why they hate to rev much above 7k RPM reliably and for very long. All you gotta do is see S54s ripping up their stock harmonic dampers to see how much they're actually getting a work out.

The damper that came with my spare motor doesn't look horrible, but some parts of the rubber were not giving me a warm fuzzy. I think it's more likely the outer section is going to become unbonded and start slinging around on an eccentric orbit and beat up bearings than a little minor 1st order torsional vibration will really worry me.

That and I want to make my car rev up like a sport bike. :cool:

[turtl631]

That's interesting. So does the S54 have a nice setup stock or is there a big market for better dampers? The ATI pieces are amazingly expensive for what they are IMO.

[Tower240sx]

real ballers use ribbed belts like blower drives...

[Matt93SE]

no squealing water pump belts that way!

[shiftdrift]

i use a ribbed belt on my ac. blows cold for days son!

[Tower240sx]

Konjiki when you get the head I want Hi res pics of the cam sprockets and the area around them


K' thanks

[Def]

That's interesting. So does the S54 have a nice setup stock or is there a big market for better dampers? The ATI pieces are amazingly expensive for what they are IMO.

Strangely enough they seem content just buying stock ones and calling them wear items. They destroy the rubber bonding layer without lots of air ducted to them. As in, it's actually working through the 2nd harmonic. Stock SR stuff seems to last almost forever, so it doesn't seem like it's doing all that much from a damping perspective. Also one important thing, a dynamic vibration absorber does NOT make the vibes go away. It will typically split it into two new natural frequency peaks to either side of the damped natural frequency (which has an amplitude close to zero if it's designed well). So the energy isn't removed from the system, it's just transfered to different frequencies with a larger overall bandwidth. This just reduces peak loading due to torsional vibrations.

If a crank, oil pump etc. is going to fail, it's probably going to do it in short order without a damper, or it's going to live on for almost ever. That's the natural of the very logarithmic fatigue strength graph.

[CodyAce]

Seems like maybe this is an issue like nitpicking what oil you run on bobistheoilguy.com- realistically, something else is gonna kill your motor before the slight inferiority of Mobil1 or a nondampened crank pulley does.

LOL!

I've said for years that if anyone can show me a specific case were a non dampened crank pulley killed an engine that I'd buy them any Wild Ale of their choice. Only reason I say that is that half the stock ones are shot by this point and never kill anything either.


I ran a UR pulley on my Altima forever, at 200k miles, N/A turbo, and on the next engine without any issue. I've had one on my SR since day one, can't say I noticed any difference....but its' not like I"m checking the bearings either ;)

[konjiki7]

I talk with a lot guys at most these different events i go to mainly to understand the logic behind why and how things were setup the way they are.

So all the top engine builder and engineers in NASCAR, sprint, drag racing and rally are just picky and put them there for bling factor?!

So that means well known sr builders like MA. The builders of the famous sr20ve s13 zombie car https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-bn1KFU3iVdA/TvECYyD1SWI/AAAAAAAAAyI/VfPhu6pBl5k/s288/s7300051.jpg and Mazworx well known for their sr20det s14 drag car and sr20ve s15 drag car. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-qXIbz9OWEdI/TvECY3UgJwI/AAAAAAAAAyE/xEOKyRZQv8c/s288/christianorway_3.jpg

I remember talking with one of the former top engineers at GM about this very topic. His name is Harold Martin one of pioneers of efi. Even today continues to innovate in that aspect of performance engines. He also designed engines and pistons.... still does till this day. He also pioneered various electronic nitrous injection technologies. He also pioneered ramjet technology too.

One of his monstrous creations
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-mx5z61R_6cc/TvEU2A_ksuI/AAAAAAAAAzc/tA3sNyGe8aU/s288/0408sc_ramjet_16_z.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/--EO3GrCV11c/TvEU1wGFGpI/AAAAAAAAAzU/-8jQjP0mWAY/s288/0408sc_ramjet_03_z.jpg

Anyways.... He explained to me that as cylinder pressure rises and the force is transmitted through the connecting rod it "hits" the crankshaft forcing it to turn. A lot of the torque spike created combustion process is wasted because the energy doesn't directly transfer into rotating the crank. The crank deflects the energy.(twist) The end result of a twist is a rebound that’s called torsional harmonic vibration. So your crank arm’s doing something like this.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-0_MQHwBrlKw/TvEUqThPeXI/AAAAAAAAAy0/J_JwvD1gHzk/s288/fluida2.jpgand then https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wC9I0m_GnWQ/TvEUqqAjwjI/AAAAAAAAAzE/Y8Af21BHN7U/s288/fluida3.gif

So how does the crank twisting not affect rod journal or main bearing? The answer is there isn't a way it can't affect them. (Sr20det #3 and #1 rod and main bearing tend to fail pretty commonly. Obviously many factors can lead to this but it’s worth considering)

Like def said harmonic vibration can't be removed from a piston engines combustion process but it can be controlled.

elastomer dampers only drown out particular frequencies. Which means it only works for a narrow range of rpms. Also build quite a bit of energy during operations and as we know rubber sucks at conducting heat so that’s way most oem dampers fail halfway through they’re life span. The retaining ring for lack of better words tends to slip when the dampers are worn. In some situations I can create an unbalanced crankshaft.

Viscous/fluid dynamic and gel dampers – Have a much boarder operating range so harmonics of the lower and hi rpm ranges can be controlled.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-kqpMVyscbgA/TvEUqTpyA9I/AAAAAAAAAy4/ngxMpNOkpYw/s447/fluida4.gif

Why did Nissan and almost every oem including diesel manufacturers install rubber ones on engines? It’s cost effective and does a decent job based on its determined usage during the manufacturing/production process. (SFI has standards for these by the way)

So based on what many brilliant minds in the racing word have told me and which explains why it’s standard practice for oems. I will be using one for me the answer is clear.

Now will my engine explode from not having one probably not.
Does help eliminate possibility of failure yes.
Does it give me a piece of mind? Kinda like me using engine oils that don't have tons of detergent in it…. Yes

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FqamsBoYKrg/TvECZVhQzqI/AAAAAAAAAyY/ISEGmXnrpUg/s288/turbo_4_5.jpgOne of Andy Jensen's 2500hp+ twin turbo setups. Another very down to earth guy I've talked to about various things.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Ig_tNTgvH0w/TvEYHqv6KxI/AAAAAAAAAzo/OX-VcZdxGqE/s640/camaro_12.JPGHe's also the owner of the words fastest small block single turbo car. First turbo car to travel 1/4 mile in 5 seconds also one of the first in the 3 second range in 1/8 mile.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uwToql9h8A0 Figure I might include a video since I mentioned it.

[Def]

I don't think anybody is saying they don't move torsional vibes to a different frequency and usually lower amplitude. I think what most people are saying is it really doesn't cause any problems on a 4 banger since the "bad revs" for harmonics are well above what most people pull through, and if they do, it's almost always at WOT and a really fast sweep through there.

I6's have long cranks that vibrate at a much lower frequency, but even then they do ok with solid crank pulleys. I ran one on my E36 M3 for about 10-15k miles, quite a few of those on track. They just have a potential for usually oil pump failure if anything (but that's not super common on them).

I4 engines largely seem fine. So yes, vibes are increased, but no real world problems arise as a result. I think having the water pump cavitate is a bigger concern for SRs, as your water temp shoots WAY up in track usage when that happens and you keep it at high RPMs.

BTW - plenty of OEMs do fit solid crank pulleys on engines, even those they know will likely see track usage like Civic Type Rs and a few Nissan models (I think some Altimas had a solid pulley stock?).


I've seen a a few stock pulleys roast engines when the outer ring became partially unbonded and went out of balance. That's a whole heck of a lot of inertia to have out of balance, so it doesn't take much to trash your bearings or snap the snout off the crank. That said, it's not very common, so it's not something I'd be too worried about.

[hydra]

Also you can't compare cross-plane V8 crankshafts with I4 crankshafts as far as torsional vibrations go. First off they are typically ~20% longer on small blocks and ~30% longer on big blocks. Vibration amplitude is a function of crank length squared (all else being equal) so things start getting ugly in a hurry. Secondly X-plane V8 crankshafts carry almost double the counterweighting an equivalent I4 crankshaft would to achieve harmonic balance, which increases vibration amplitude even more... With that said a fluidamper is probably good insurance on a high $$$/high rpm build, which is why you see them on the builds listed above.

[Def]

Also you can't compare cross-plane V8 crankshafts with I4 crankshafts as far as torsional vibrations go. First off they are typically ~20% longer on small blocks and ~30% longer on big blocks. Vibration amplitude is a function of crank length squared (all else being equal) so things start getting ugly in a hurry. Secondly X-plane V8 crankshafts carry almost double the counterweighting an equivalent I4 crankshaft would to achieve harmonic balance, which increases vibration amplitude even more... With that said a fluidamper is probably good insurance on a high $$$/high rpm build, which is why you see them on the builds listed above.

Yep fluidic dampers work very well when tuned (as with anything in a 2nd order mechanical system), so when people are prepared to drop $500+ on them, they're a good thing. The stock rubber/mass damper is pretty crappy in comparison, but you don't see engines blowing up left and right from TVs.

[konjiki7]

Also you can't compare cross-plane V8 crankshafts with I4 crankshafts as far as torsional vibrations go. First off they are typically ~20% longer on small blocks and ~30% longer on big blocks. Vibration amplitude is a function of crank length squared (all else being equal) so things start getting ugly in a hurry. Secondly X-plane V8 crankshafts carry almost double the counterweighting an equivalent I4 crankshaft would to achieve harmonic balance, which increases vibration amplitude even more... With that said a fluidamper is probably good insurance on a high $$$/high rpm build, which is why you see them on the builds listed above. Exactly my point. lol I'm putting a VE head on on a sr20det. The purpose of the head is to achieve a larger power band and to have durability at higher rpms.

The fact remains in a piston driven engine the crank will experience torsional vibrations regardless of length. It's obvious magnitude of it will very depending size configuration. Torsional vibrations still directly relates to rod and main journal wear despite that fact.

Another way of looking at is you can choose to block a punch or not. If you were to take direct blow you wouldn't die from it. Blocking it would certain surpass the blow a little and is certainly better than choosing not to.

So we all know an engine is wear through out its life span. To me it simple doesn't make sense to overlook it. Especially considering the time and money people do put into building they're cars.

[Def]

You have to get the crank into its bending mode (bending up and down in the center, or at multiple nodes) to really have a chance at bearing wear. The 2nd harmonic is usually what does this on a long cylinder like object, and that RPM for a short 4 banger crank is well above what most people rev to. If you're building a 10k RPM drag screamer, yea, get a fluid damper, because the stocker will likely destroy itself from the energy input. Otherwise it's fine.

All about the frequency...

[BEXE]

So with all this debate; who is upgrading their bottom end to run the VE head with stock cams and upgraded springs. Also what would you upgrade?

[konjiki7]

I'm doing a bottom end upgrade. The head I'm receiving has upgraded valve springs and retainers already installed new valve seals etc. Mahle or arias, Manley rods possible oem's. Considering WPC treatment depending on cost. Not sure which main bearings i will be using yet.

[BEXE]

I forgot to mention this would be a bottom end etc. for regularily spinning 9k with a 9200 limiter setting.

[konjiki7]

As far as bottom end goes... it greatly depends on power levels that your trying to achieve.

[BEXE]

I'm gong for the 450-500 whp range. May even go stroked if I find one that needs freshening.

[konjiki7]

Almost any aftermarket piston will do the trick. I would recommend a 4032 aluminum piston for a street and track day setup. If you think you may try to go beyond those number a 2618 may make better sense.... It's more for extreme applications guys spooling large turbos using nitrous or high boost levels 26psi+.

[CodyAce]

I'll stick to my sentiments that you show me a case where a crank pulley is to blame for a regular car eating itself up, and I'll buy them the beer of their choice.

Obviously Jenson maeks badass engines, but most of those cars are getting tore down every 10 passes for inspection and or valvespring changes...so while we see them using the dampners, I can assure that there are 100 other things that would fail before that crnak pulley has an effect.



I'm interested in Def's progress though, as VE head is about the only other thing I'd consider at this point in the modification list of thigns. I'd love to take my car out to 8500/9000 RPM, but I'd almost be forced to run a larger turbo (or await those GTX series T28 ones)

[Def]

V8s can excite the crank more readily than a 4 banger due to hitting the journals "twice as often." Plus when you're pushing out a TON of HP you're obviously nudging up much closer to material limitations so some extra stress from a torsional vibration at a specific RPM (usually up high towards the big end of the track) ends in catastrophic failure.

A track engine type build with a very flexible powerband and much lower overall power is not comparable at all, especially when the cylinder arrangement makes it damn near impossible to hit the 2nd harmonic of the main peak which is what tends to break stuff.

[konjiki7]

Konjiki when you get the head I want Hi res pics of the cam sprockets and the area around them


K' thanks

My gf sent me a teaser of the VE when it finally came in the mail.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-EXQ370q7BK4/TwywkftwE2I/AAAAAAAAAz8/urg1Ah6Fx3I/s640/IMAG0110.jpg

It's also came with a little bad news a bolt on the bearing cap was damaged and one around the coolant port.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1h6N0lFSY7c/TwyxBUwNp6I/AAAAAAAAA0c/ezEwJjFxnsw/s640/IMAG0105.jpg


https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-IzibpKeN_ss/Twyw6Fz7CvI/AAAAAAAAA1I/MVyoPi5AoeA/s640/IMAG0109.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-8q8aKX_MhYo/TwyxcBv8URI/AAAAAAAAA1M/E84iYX6nYSs/s640/IMAG0102.jpg

Anyone see anything wrong with just ordering some new bolts from mcmaster-carr?

Anyone know of a good place to pickup VE parts. A courtesy Nissan like place?

[Matt93SE]

Other than the cam cap bolt, I think the rest you should be able to pick out of the bucket of bolts you should have under your workbench. (every good shop has a well stocked bolt bin from dead cars and leftover parts.. Before I throw ANY failed part away or junk a car, I strip it down just for the hardware.)

The cam cap bolt, I would only buy from Nissan. They're quite a bit harder (grade 12.8 probably) than the regular hardware everywhere else on the car.
They shouldn't be too much money, and *should* be the same as any other SR, or some other Nissan engine. problem is finding it and finding the dimensions.
I probably have a few somewhere in my pile of Maxima engine junk if you can't find one.

[konjiki7]

I wish i could find an fsm for one of the vvl powered cars in English...

[konjiki7]

While i'm waiting for my cp pistons to come in the mail it's time to focus on rod and main bearings.

I ended up being one of those fools who bought arp main studs. I didn't know intill after the fact that you have to get things honed and aligned.

Now I'm wondering should i order my bearings before or after process?

I'm also looking to have something like this done by the machine shop.
http://image.turbomagazine.com/f/10043837+w750+st0/turp_0807_04_z+project_low_buck_sr20de_part_2+pist on_coolers.jpg

[Bluerb240]

Same here the stock VE looks like that on the mains.