My build

[PerilousActs]

I figured I would finally get around to making an intro post over here since I've been spending more and more time here.

I had been debating on picking up another car to build the summer before I started college. Sounds pretty smart and financially brilliant, eh? Well, despite the possible perils associated with the deed, I did it anyway (hence the username). This will more than likely be an extremely slow build thanks to the above and I want to build it right. The goal is to have a good drifter and a good corner dancer.

After roughly 6 months of searching and missing numerous shells I was suppose to get, I finally found a jewel and jumped on it. A 450 mile, 7 hour, round trip the day before graduation to the wonderfully rural, mountain town of Paintsville, Kentucky (home of the armed KKK headquarters, Loretta Lynn, and metric tons of coal). The reward? A 1990 240sx SE hatchback with an insanely low amount of rust and an engine for $900. There is a tad bit of surface rust on the driver side frame rail (easily sanded and coated again), a ****ed up passenger fender (it got kicked when the timing chain went out on the ka24e), and a rust hole thanks to the factory spoiler.


June 1st, 2009:
Where she sat when I arrived.
http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/5901/dsc0098b.jpg
http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/3134/dsc0099n.jpg
sexy-side!
http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/9018/dsc0100m.jpg
http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/2337/dsc0101s.jpg
http://img2.imageshack.us/img2/894/dsc0103j.jpg

Interior shot
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3360/3596613065_f8c06bae8c_o.jpg
Dirty rear end

Check out these solid frame rails and floor
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2452/3597418374_5192c60faf_o.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3606/3597418240_ed71df024f_o.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3315/3596610671_d3e5a2daa9_o.jpg

June 4th, 2009: I thought I'd be cool and try to rock the single slammer after fixing it...little did I know the head was toast.

So I wasted a lot of time messing with the SOHC. Turns out the sprocket on the crank stripped the woodruff key.
http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/1733/woodruf.jpg

So at this point, I realized I won't get it on the road any time soon. I buckled down for a full on build and started stripping it.
http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/2643/photo4lto.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2649/3846240958_1fd46a646b_o.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2608/3857209503_eb5e5b3cec_b.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3509/3860982548_8f54989219_b.jpg
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/637/photoo.jpg

Rolled it outside for a pressure wash and to get a good look at the frame rail rust. It's not too bad yet. Got it just in time. I bet if it was on the road another winter this would be pretty bad.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3437/3846261602_bd878aaaa1_b.jpg

A few months later, I was up late one night doing school work and browsing the local car sites. I came across this:
http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs084.snc3/15139_1181325852288_1202430096_30491601_3247081_n. jpg
'91 HICAS S-13
- every power option
- SR20DET red top
- FMIC + BOV
- 240sx vlsd (4.06 vs j30 3.96 I was gonna run)
- N1 style exhaust
- Walbro 255lph fuel pump
- Custom metal flake grant steering wheel =p
- Battery relocation kit
- Fiberglass 20mm overfenders
- 2 Diamond racing 16x8 +0 wheels up front with new federals
- Cut megan drop springs

So I made a pretty low offer and to my complete and utter surprise...he accepted it. When I picked it up, he said it would not run as there was fuel leak and 0 fuel pressure. I gambled on it.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2628/4104296625_9ba38c5599_b.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2668/4105063406_e01539a1e4_b.jpg

It turns out, he was half correct. The *tank* has a leak somewhere above 1/4 tank mark. The real issue with starting it was this:
http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs084.snc3/15139_1182469320874_1202430096_30493619_3125535_n. jpg

I literally spent 10 minutes messing with the car once I got it home and had it running. I just reversed the battery relocation and it fired right up. It runs like a champ minus 2 things: timing chain rattle and a blinking oil light on the dash.

The life of the car is short lived though. It's my donor. The shell is 100% shot on this thing. Serious strut tower rot, I can see through the rails in numerous places...to the point I wouldn't trust a jack on them to support the car, and the floor has some rust. I've also managed to put a breaker bar through the frame rail under the strut tower with one hand.

At this point I'm going to skip a ton of details and post the major stuff. If you wish to see everything in detail, I have a build thread on Zilvia and here:
http://ohiosx.com/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=74

I yanked the SR and tore into it a bit. It had a caved in oil pan, chain rattle, and scouring on 2 of the rod bearings. I went ahead and took care of all of that, cleaned, reassembled it, and added a few upgrades here and there (GTi-R main studs, ACL Race conrod bearings, manifold, new turbo). My plan is to build an SR22VET once I get my actual chassis and suspension completed in a couple years.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs442.ash2/71524_1518935892328_1202430096_31249608_7691834_n. jpg

I came into my freshman year of college with 28 hours worth of credits. So needless to say, I had room in my schedule for electives. The problem was that all of the computer science electives had requirements that I did not meet yet. I used this to my advantage and signed up for a tig welding class with the quickness. Learned the basics of tig on steel (overhead, under, vertical, etc) and a tad bit of aluminum. On the last shop day of the class I made this:
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4024/4637470760_cd14ce48f7_b.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3346/4637474744_f49fc6e78c_b.jpg
http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/6788/imageli.jpg

Somewhere after this I started getting disinterested with drifting, the local retards in it bitching at me for not half assing my stuff (I got flamed hardcore on a local site for repairing the one rust spot on this chassis by cutting it out and replacing it with good metal LOL), and getting more into actual road racing and real driving.

I planned out my new brake setup and ordered ~$600 worth of fittings.
http://a.imageshack.us/img132/9343/fittings.jpg
This has changed a little bit now since I am going with a floor mounted Tilton setup and Def's Wilwood setup.

I had always wanted a crazy shaved engine bay. I know it doesn't fit the theme of my build, but I wanted the experience of doing it just once. Since this is my project car I shaved the engine bay. I will never do a shaved bay with a fluxcore welder ever again. Ever.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs578.ash2/150067_1549743302494_1202430096_31307887_3678323_n .jpg
The wire harness and AC holes are not finished in this picture yet. Apparently I never took a picture after it was fully completed. The bay will get smoothed after I drop the engine back in and fab up the bracketry for my v-mount.

Within the next two weeks, I am buying a JD2 Model 3 bender and a JD2 Notchmaster tubing notcher and beginning to cage the car. Once the car is caged I plan on doing a carbon-kevlar roof. Why? Because I want to and so I can gain a bit of experience with working around composite materials. So I went ahead and pulled the windows to make building the cage easier and so I had access to the roof skin to mold.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs241.snc6/178956_1616661975419_1202430096_31443468_6812947_n .jpg

The roll cage will fully tie into both pairs of strut towers (penetrating firewall) and build to spec for NASA Time Attack. I'm currently debating between 1.5" DOM and 1.75" DOM.

For suspension, it will be getting new arms, z32 rear knuckles, solid subframe bushings (Going to be making these myself), and sphericals. I'm probably going with a Koni setup or saving up for something like AST's or Ohlins. From there, who knows where it goes. I'm building this car for fun and enjoyment on the track and not putting any deadlines on myself just yet. Sorry if it's long winded but I figured I'd start from the beginning.

[Def]

Go 1.75"x0.095" - lighter than 1.5 x .120" - more weld area, and a greater moment of inertia due to the larger inertia.

[PerilousActs]

Yeah, I'm pretty sure I'm going with 1.75" as of right now. If my buddy that's going in on the bending die with me is cool with it. (He's got a wicked fast r56 jcw mini cooper so 1.75 may be a bit large for him, but I doubt he'll mind)

Here is roughly what I'm planning to do for my cage:
http://a202.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/121/l_034e11a0fe380bce1f780af93bbbae31.jpg
Similar design to that and will tie into the front strut towers like:
http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/558/img2247l.jpg
http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/1954/img2234w.jpg

I also want to tie them into the dash bar, but I'm going to have to toss the engine back in and see how I can run the bars without hitting stuff. I at least won't have to worry about the brake booster or anything thanks to the pedal box.

[Def]

Make the diagonal on the main hoop go through the harness bar so everything stays in one plane.

[PerilousActs]

Make the diagonal on the main hoop go through the harness bar so everything stays in one plane.

Yeah, I plan on it. If you notice, they do that all over that cage. Not a fan of that at all.

[Riggle]

Yeah, I'm pretty sure I'm going with 1.75" as of right now. If my buddy that's going in on the bending die with me is cool with it. (He's got a wicked fast r56 jcw mini cooper so 1.75 may be a bit large for him, but I doubt he'll mind)

Odd question.

Any pics or build links for the R56 JCW?

I work at MINI (lead tech) and love seeing MINI builds.

Thanks in advance.

[Tower240sx]

Go 1.75"x0.095" - lighter than 1.5 x .120" - more weld area, and a greater moment of inertia due to the larger inertia.

Maybe I'm missing something but...if the 1.75 is lighter than how does it possibly have more inertia?

[Def]

Maybe I'm missing something but...if the 1.75 is lighter than how does it possibly have more inertia?

My comment is a bit rambling, so maybe you're giving me crap, but if not, I was talking about the moment of inertia about the cross section of the tube. I.e., it's roughly proportional to the radius squared on a tube. So with less material it actually resisting bending and buckling forces better than the heavier 1.5" tube.

[PerilousActs]

Odd question.

Any pics or build links for the R56 JCW?

I work at MINI (lead tech) and love seeing MINI builds.

Thanks in advance.

No build thread. He gave up on the mini forums after he got flamed for killing whales by running a custom catless downpipe (I **** you not. Killing whales).

Nothing too exciting as it looks completely stock:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs139.ash2/40273_1425228269696_1202430028_31050349_4390291_n. jpg

He's got:
- an invidia 2.5" straight through exhaust, but usually runs open downpipe. (I'll be making a proper straight pipe for it at some point so he doesn't have to run open dp all the time and get exhaust in the car)
- Custom catless 2.5" downpipe
- short shifter
- hard pipes
- resonators/noisemaker/etc removed from intake piping
- e46 intercooler (may be an e36 I can't remember)
- back half of the car is fully stripped and I'll be building a cage for it
- new intake (forget the brand) that uses a hole cut in the bulkhead to pull air from wiper cowling
- BSH dogbone engine mount
- he had a mini challenge car full diffusor setup but it burnt to the ground with the warehouse before he got it installed :(. So if you can get bmw motorsport parts hit me up.
- somewhere around 17psi. It's a _ton_ faster than stock and he still has no boost controller on or tune yet

He's ordering KW V2 or V3's in February and I'll be powder coating the wheels at that time. At some point I know he does want to get a tune and possibly upgrade the turbo. After that stuff I think he's taking a break on it. We flew out to Nevada back in October where he bought a caged Pulsar GTi-R, then drove it 31 hours straight back to Kentucky (after stopping at Bonneville for an hour or two >_>).

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1254/5112179593_b9a9e1a05f_b.jpg

[PerilousActs]

Got my budget baller parts from Def today. These are some sweet piece of kit!
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs797.ash1/168763_1641174988229_1202430096_31479825_5751331_n .jpg
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs250.snc6/179838_1641173868201_1202430096_31479823_5197691_n .jpg

I also picked this new toy up on Friday:
http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs080.snc6/169003_1636991563646_1202430096_31473354_3189133_n .jpg

[Def]

Glad you like the FSL kit. They do take pictures well. Mil-Spec hard anodize is so budget baller. :D

[Tower240sx]

Glad you like the FSL kit. They do take pictures well. Mil-Spec hard anodize is so budget baller. :D

What he said:D

[PerilousActs]

http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/3366/bearings001zb2.jpg
http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/959/medium/RSSB_02.jpg
http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/4177/installedshockmount.jpg
Got a set of Def's sphericals on order. ^^ you all know what they look like ;)

Ready for the scrap yard. This was fun to get loaded up on the trailer with no help. It's amazing how easy wheels make things move. what a concept that wheel...
https://s-hphotos-ash4.fbcdn.net/184919_1677391013607_1202430096_31538923_3565093_n .jpg

Parts I finished removing:
https://s-hphotos-snc6.fbcdn.net/180037_1677393053658_1202430096_31538925_6100543_n .jpg
S13 hicas subframe, viscous 4.08 LSD, hicas swaybars, hicas quick ratio steering rack, front lower control arms, front subframe and other odds and ends.

Swooped an S14 today. This is hands down the cleanest s-chassis shell I've ever laid eyes on. It's a shame it's not more complete and titled. It has literally no rust. The undercoating is still on everything underneath and on the bottom of the frame rails. Doesn't even look like the car has ever been jacked up.
https://s-hphotos-snc6.fbcdn.net/183174_1678652365140_1202430096_31540929_544334_n. jpg
https://s-hphotos-ash4.fbcdn.net/190119_1678654525194_1202430096_31540932_2665282_n .jpg

Got the S14 subframe dropped.
https://s-hphotos-snc6.fbcdn.net/183440_1678655725224_1202430096_31540934_1872998_n .jpg
And the doors and random interior parts:
https://s-hphotos-snc6.fbcdn.net/189687_1678656725249_1202430096_31540936_1903277_n .jpg
How it sat when I stopped for the night:
https://s-hphotos-ash1.fbcdn.net/180989_1678657805276_1202430096_31540942_4824091_n .jpg

Should be ready to scrap by Tuesday morning. Oh yeah, I got my protools Model 105 bender in too. Forgot to grab pics of it all setup. Notcher is on the way and I'm working on getting a Lincoln Precision Tig 225 now.

[PerilousActs]

When I go to build my cage, do you all think it's worth tying into the subframe? Is similar to how this guy did it the "proper" way? He basically welded the tubing to the inside of the rail around the subframe's stud.
http://i.imgur.com/QFT40.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/8zs0N.jpg

[Def]

Holy old pictures for the spherical bearings!!! Those must be from around '08 or earlier. :D

As for tying into the subframe. I thought about it, but it seemed like quite a bit of cutting to get to the subframe stud. I really don't feel like my subframe moves at all with solid bushings on it, so I'm going to say it's not that big of a deal on our cars.

[PerilousActs]

Hmm. I'll have to cut around on my spare shells before I scrap them, make a decision and see exactly where it's at. It's just so rarely done on an s-chassis that I can't find any feedback one way or the other. Actually, the above 2 pics are the only ones I could find of it done.

[Scores240]

Theres a build on zilvia from europe where the dude welded in new subframe studs and tied in and braced it with the cage. pretty crazy looking.

[Def]

Yea, I couldn't find much info either. It's common on BMWs, but they also rip out subframe mounts with hard driving.. sooo...

I'd also be wary of warping the studs from the heat and not being able to get a solidly mounted subframe on.

[PerilousActs]

Theres a build on zilvia from europe where the dude welded in new subframe studs and tied in and braced it with the cage. pretty crazy looking.

Have a link to this or what should I search for?

[PerilousActs]

Yea, I couldn't find much info either. It's common on BMWs, but they also rip out subframe mounts with hard driving.. sooo...

I'd also be wary of warping the studs from the heat and not being able to get a solidly mounted subframe on.

Yeah, I'd definitely have to do it with the solid bushings/subframe mounted up or use a heatsink when welding it.

[Scores240]

Have a link to this or what should I search for?

I'm looking for it now lol i wanna see it again now.

[PerilousActs]

Any luck?

https://s-hphotos-snc6.fbcdn.net/181543_1681688841050_1202430096_31546551_4789873_n .jpg
Dropped the entire front suspension. Amazing how simple this is with no corrosion...didn't even have to coerce the steering column out of the rack.

[Scores240]

Found it !!!

Subframe Mounts (http://zilvia.net/f/chat/362308-hot-lap-motorsports-650-bhp-s15-2jz-single-turbo-2.html#post3880273)

Subframe rollcage (http://zilvia.net/f/chat/362308-hot-lap-motorsports-650-bhp-s15-2jz-single-turbo-3.html#post3890414)

Enjoy

[PerilousActs]

Thanks, for that! I was disappointed today when I got to the garage and my dad had hauled off the shell I was going to cut into to check some of this stuff out (Everything is at his shop and he assumed it was ready to go since it was on the trailer heh).

Edit: BTW thanks for causing me to finally decide to spot welding my chassis. -.- Oh the hours of enjoyment ahead.

[PerilousActs]

Been busy the past few days.

Scrapped the s14:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/196117_1700443869914_1202430096_31576308_5040240_n .jpg

Traded a steering rack taking up space for a Bee-R that I'll probably sell/trade (hit me up if you're interested):
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/198614_1707220959337_1202430096_31583475_7059318_n .jpg

Did some bushing burning on my s14 subframe:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/196657_1716286305965_1202430096_31596647_8115796_n .jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/197235_1716287425993_1202430096_31596649_2048066_n .jpg

All disassembled. I'll be prepping the VLSD sometime soon.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/199712_1716288266014_1202430096_31596650_2210998_n .jpg

Did some weight reduction on the subframe by cutting off tabs/exhaust brackets:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/190017_1716288746026_1202430096_31596652_5075182_n .jpg

[Def]

I bet the Bee*R rev limiter weighs more than the exhaust hangers. :D

[PerilousActs]

Sounds about right to me. I was just bored =p.

Traded my S14 rear bumper for these Z32 NA rear knuckles. My spherical setup from Def should be here soon. Tig welder will be ordered when my final paycheck is sent to me.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/189650_1719411784100_1202430096_31600571_2365364_n .jpg

[o1roadkingrider]

If you get another shell to bone out that is as clean as that white S14, please cut out and keep the rockers, rear quarters and floor-pan. I'm sure you wouldn't have a hard time selling them.

[PerilousActs]

I got a new toy! I just bought a Lincoln Electric Precision Tig 225. I hate how much I spent on it, but I'm so far in money-wise on this build anymore, it's whatever. Here are the specs for those interested:
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/Equipment/Pages/product.aspx?product=K2535-2

It's capable of pulling so much power, we have to redo some of the electric in the garage. :)

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/217426_1751397023711_1202430096_31633589_5949752_n .jpg

[Def]

Ohhh... jealous...

[o1roadkingrider]

^^^ This.

I'm looking forward to watching what kind of magic you can work with your new toy.

[PerilousActs]

Got my Defsport/Skullworks z32 knuckle sphericals in:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/205604_1752990263541_1202430096_31635779_5562280_n .jpg

[PerilousActs]

After some "deep" thinking, I decided it was time to take a step backwards. I know I spent a great deal of time shaving the stock fender area of the engine bay, but let's be honest, this car will have wide tires up front. There's no point in burning paint off or anything and having to tub it later. Now that I have a welder that's not a pain in the ass on sheet metal, I decided to just go ahead and bite the bullet, and tub it. I got the passenger side cut out and managed to kill my harbor freight angle grinder in the process. I turned it off and it refuses to turn back on now, so I'll have to pick up a new one later this week.
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/205820_1756590193537_1202430096_31641686_1939280_n .jpg

I'm going with tubs like this since they provide more room in the engine bay than the style people commonly do.
http://ll.speedhunters.com/u/f/eagames/NFS/speedhunters.com/Images/Dino%20Dalle%20Carbonare/2010/February%202010/ExceedMoat-S14s/TskTA-131.jpg

I'm also notching the fender rail like this:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2654/4110682061_c1e554a35f.jpg

[o1roadkingrider]

Kewl....

Will you loose any chassis strength by "notching the fender rail" that way? Will you have to add any bracing to make up the loss in material / box strength?

[PerilousActs]

You lose a bit of strength most of the time you notch anything, but quite a few people have run with a notch there drifting and have had no issues. At least when you add metal back in, it will strengthen it back up a bit. I'm not too worried about it since my roll cage will be tying into the front strut towers though.

[o1roadkingrider]

With your cage tying into the front strut towers, what classes would you not be able to run in? While I'm asking questions.... what classes do you eliminate yourself from if you have a cage at all?

[PerilousActs]

By penetrating the firewall, I think the only class it's allowed in - in the SCCA - is XP. I'm building it more for NASA PT/TT classes than anything.

[PerilousActs]

I had all kinds of plans for today, left my house at 8am to run some errands and came back to this:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/217674_1771326681940_1202430096_31662394_4611285_n .jpg

So I couldn't even get to my house for a few hours. Finally decided to do some development work (I'm a programmer) and I kept falling asleep, so I figured I'd get up and do something for a bit. I finally decided to attempt to stitch weld this chassis. Obviously, doing this with tig is not the best option, but it's the best option I have since my only other welder is a crappy fluxcore. I found a process that works half-way decent at least. I cleaned the seams with a wire brush, then torch them to melt any of the remaining sealer away, then brush the residue off again. I had minimal issues after figuring this out and switching to the smallest filler rod I had. I think I was running about 45 amps max on the foot pedal.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/216234_1772105341406_1202430096_31663407_7864308_n .jpg

They aren't necessarily super pretty but the ones toward the end were not too bad since I had the process and amperage figured out. Regardless, they all penetrated so whatever. I do indeed wish I had a good mig now though. Maybe I'll scoop up the matching mig partner machine for my tig :rolleyes:

[PerilousActs]

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/226819_1806994373610_1202430096_31712217_2422492_n .jpg
Got the knuckles sandblasted a few days ago and got the sphericals pressed in today.

All of them are easily moving, but it seems that the tolerances on one of the mounts in both knuckles is slightly smaller. So, they are causing Def's inserts to oblong or something? The sphericals are a little stiff in one direction. Hopefully they free up, but they are still a hell of a lot more free than the stock bushings. I may try to pull the spherical out to make sure the insert isn't tweaked from being pressed in. I have a feeling it's the knuckles though since both of them did it on the same one.

[Def]

The bearings will break in with a little usage. If you can rotate it by hand, they're more than free enough to use on the car. Don't put any oil or anything like that.


Your uprights probably did have a little out of roundness, but as long as the sleeve can go in, you're fine in general. After a few hundred miles the PTFE liner will "smooth out."

[PerilousActs]

My tool buying is finally complete! My JD2 notcher, pipemaster fitting tool, and angle finder arrived today. Ordering my tubing this week. So much money spent since January...
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6130/5976174547_89247d7d50_b.jpg
From left to right:
Pro-Tools Model 105 Bender with 1.75" 6" CLR bending die
Lincoln Electric Precision Tig 225 with 125CF argon tank
Angle Finder
Morse Hole Saw Set
Pipemaster 1.75" pipe fitting tool
Rigid 14" Chop Saw
Shorty back cap for my WP-17 tig torch
JD2 Notchmaster + hole saw adapter
Cutting oil

[Somnambulist]

Ah so I finally found your build thread! ;)

[PerilousActs]

Been busy with work over the past few weeks, but here's what's been done:

Welded up the antenna hole and finished the shaving, also repaired a small dent in the rear corner of the car (hail damage):
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/223004_2038379518094_1202430096_31957386_7264664_n .jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/267396_2038379398091_1202430096_31957385_5751412_n .jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/284382_2038379198086_1202430096_31957384_7497020_n .jpg

Then I found some rust that I'm going to have to repair while wire wheeling (was still under paint and undercoating). Not too big a deal since I was already going to rework the inner fender lining for bigger wheels anyway (just annoying):
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/306094_2069436374496_1202430096_31996357_7469464_n .jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/262589_2069438774556_1202430096_31996361_2386630_n .jpg

Roll cage stuff (1x75x0.095 DOM, 1/8" plate, 22 gauge to finish tubs):
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/312825_2071893835931_1202430096_31999362_1547171_n .jpg

Weight savings (a few pounds max):
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/320891_2085972667893_1202430096_32017634_2668857_n .jpg
http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/293239_2085974867948_1202430096_32017640_4824699_n .jpg
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/296690_2085983268158_1202430096_32017669_1030353_n .jpg

Almost done stitch welding... Would have been done today if I wouldn't have run out of wire wheels. I was one short :/. I went pretty extensive you could say.

Frame rails (still have to do inside of them):
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/307037_2102109551305_1202430096_32035662_5409750_n .jpg

Inside:
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/312804_2102109831312_1202430096_32035663_6607016_n .jpg
http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/318669_2102110231322_1202430096_32035664_3414331_n .jpg
You can see where the frame rails run now on the inside from the stitch welds.

Rear subframe area:
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/305370_2102110791336_1202430096_32035666_4449373_n .jpg
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/319917_2102111391351_1202430096_32035669_2578238_n .jpg

[PerilousActs]

Looking at picking up some S14 conversion bushings for my subframe. Stance appears to be the cheapest right now. So, sadly thinking of going that route since I don't have easy access to a lathe where I can make my own and figure out the hole offset needed (lathe/drill press is 40 mins from car).

Did some quick research and it appears the stance bushings are 1-2mm too short. Think this will cause an issue? I'm afraid of it collapsing the upper portion exposed until the subframe/bushing sits flush and gaining some play.
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-W-i6j-AesZI/TZLKPgLE1PI/AAAAAAAAAp8/7YruU_VO6Lk/s1600/IMG_3304.JPG

Edit: Yes, I know that's an s13 subframe.

[Z28ricer]

Who knows, i've got the SPL's, they fit, subframe slipped right in.

[PerilousActs]

Guess I may gamble and see. Worst case I throw a spacer to close up the gap.

Needed a seat to make sure my cage is going to clear it. Don't want to build a nice cage then not be able to fit a seat.

Swooped one of these:
http://d5otzd52uv6zz.cloudfront.net/773908c9-7b91-4221-995f-ba8dfc9aab81-800.jpg
and a lightly used set of side mount rails from McCoy:
http://www.prmsg.org/albums/album120/sparco_side_mounts.jpg

May also swoop my pedal box and subframe bushings this week too.

[Tower240sx]

well aren't you a fancy fancy ho

[PerilousActs]

Passenger won't be so fancy. Right now it's looking like a red sparco sprint that's from 2003 haha.

[PerilousActs]

Finally finished stitch welding my damn car. Sounds so much more solid now when closing doors. There is essentially zero sag when I jack up one corner of the car now. Can't wait to start the cage this weekend.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QVaH9TB_66Y

Edit: hmm embedding isn't working: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QVaH9TB_66Y

[PerilousActs]

Ended up having to spend $200 on wire for the garage today. Not happy. On the bright side, I now have a 220 outlet by my car that I couldn't move to weld on - since dumbass me took out the entire rear suspension while I was using the 110v mig I had borrowed.

So after wiring up the garage and getting everything working, I started to finish up my tubs again.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/297536_2165175287909_1202430096_32084542_112607076 7_n.jpg

[PerilousActs]

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/293665_2168418488987_1202430096_32086901_116264668 4_n.jpg
Finally all I've got to do is do the final welding.

[PerilousActs]

Swooping a set of Hoosier R6 255/35's tomorrow for $100. One hell of a craigslist find (SCCA Pro and World Challenger driver). I guess I need wheels now...

[PerilousActs]

Finally started bending my roll cage up and finishing the other tub now that I'm on winter break. I've got 3 weeks until I'm back to work full time, so it's time to knock some stuff off the check list.

Today, I also started playing with seat positioning. After hammering the cat hump flat (I'll be cutting it out and replacing it with some bead rolled steal, but in the meant time this is easy for mockup), I determined that with my pedal box, I need the seat to be back 7-9" more over stock position. I have room for it, but my concerns are obviously steering wheel location and shifter location.

The steering column sits too high at that distance and for as low as I'll be mounting the seat, so it looks like I'm going to end up moving to a woodward collapsible steering column that will hang off the cage's dash bar.

As for the shifter location, I'm not quite sure of any elegant solution to this while using a stock SR tranny. Anyone have any advice? I really don't want some huge Z-shaped shifter that's going to flex under hard driving.

[Def]

Simple solution is to move the engine and trans back 7-9". :D

[PerilousActs]

Simple solution is to move the engine and trans back 7-9". :D

I *really* want to. Just not sure I want to get that much involved until I have a dogbox and built engine to play around with. Right now I'm working on trying to hammer out the specs I need for the motons I'm ordering in March and hunting down a Saenz SP910 or Gforce T5 dogbox if possible.

[ogorir]

They aren't necessarily super pretty but the ones toward the end were not too bad since I had the process and amperage figured out. Regardless, they all penetrated so whatever. I do indeed wish I had a good mig now though. Maybe I'll scoop up the matching mig partner machine for my tig :rolleyes:


This is what you want: http://www.everlastgenerators.com/Power-I-MIG-200-375-pd.html

I've had mine for about a year and it beats the pants off Lincoln, Miller, and Hobart's small MIG machines for almost half the cost. I paid $675 for mine. you can also run stick and scratch start tig with it (although it only turns down to 30a, which is way to hot on this machine for 18ga and thinner).

I learned how to tig on the Precision tig 185, they're good machines. I've always liked their footpedal design.

[tonto]

Props sir. Yous inspires me break out with the tig here in a few minutes and make me a real mans rear subframe.

Found it !!!

Subframe Mounts (http://zilvia.net/f/chat/362308-hot-lap-motorsports-650-bhp-s15-2jz-single-turbo-2.html#post3880273)

Subframe rollcage (http://zilvia.net/f/chat/362308-hot-lap-motorsports-650-bhp-s15-2jz-single-turbo-3.html#post3890414)

Enjoy

would somebody educates me why spending that kind of time on a car which is going to be slowly bounced off walls and other cars makes any kind of sense. i mean, aren't drift cars disposable with a mean lifetime of 4 events?

put a roll bar and call it a day