Side mount intercooler.

[WorkInProgressK]

For how much HP can I safely run that?

I have runned on the track for 30 mins sessions at 15 psi on my t25 with no issues.

In my opinion the tune must be made according to the fact that I have a SMIC. But is there any complications that can happen?

I know detonation and knock are two things that are more likely to happen if my IC doesn't cool enough and the stock 2 inch piping limits flow. But other then reduced power. I guess there shouldn't be an issue.

Its not that I am cheap. But I like how the setup is really sleeper.

Any opinions?

[Def]

I thought the stock SMIC was garbage on track at just 8-9 psi. By the back straight on the warm-up lap you could feel the car heatsoaking.

I also had some pretty high knock counts on my S-AFC2(stock ECU at the time, 93 octane). I'm thinking the retardedly small SMIC was the reason for that.

If you do run it on track like that, then run it at stock boost.

[Jonty]

can you find some black paint that will still transfer the heat effectively so you can spray a FMIC core and it look like an aircon rad or something?! Behind stock bumpers I don't think FMICs look that obvious anyway unless it's right hard up against the bumper cutout... anything slightly recessed away and it's not very noticeable IMO.

[WorkInProgressK]

Def I havent had too much issues with heat soaking. I feel more the engine self heat soak.

Maybe its because I have the true stock duckting.

Other wise I would run this. http://zilvia.net/f/forced-induction/335933-parts-shop-max-high-mount-intercooler-turbo-inlet-stock-live-quotes-thread.html

is it worth it? *finaly has money :D*

[Def]

I had a 100% stock setup on a stock bumper with a stock SMIC fender liner. It was 100% factory on the intercooler side as it would be from the factory.. and it sucked. The "cold" pipe would be SIGNIFICANTLY above ambient with just one pull at WOT, nevermind a few laps.

I really don't notice my engine ever heatsoaking on track - not sure what would really heat soak beyond the IC then the intake manifold from the IC just not doing its job. So I'm positive you're just feeling the SMIC give up the ghost shortly after the session starts.

The PSM setup looks nice - if I had a good solution for the pop-ups I'd probably think about going to it, but my GReddy VSPL is still kicking just fine, and it does probably get better flow hanging right in front at the expense of a couple of feet of piping.

[PoorMans180SX]

So, knowing this, does anyone know of a good FMIC kit that's a decent price, without being made by some knockoff company?

Like under $500?

[Colorado S14]

Just buy the knock off for that price, a nice Spearco or something along those lines will run that just for the core and end tanks. Honestly if you search around eBay you can find something pretty decent for very cheap.

[PoorMans180SX]

I don't support knockoff companies. Yes, I realize it's just a heat exchanger and some piping, but it's more about the other products the company sells.

Nearly every "knockoff company" that makes a FMIC makes a Greddy intake manifold knockoff.

I wouldn't even care if the company just made simple/crappy stuff, like say Circuit Sports. At least they don't rip off other companies direct designs.

[Def]

The PSM high mount setup is a bit less than that. GReddy used to have their Spec M I think it was for $400ish, but I think they discontinued it.

[onosqv]

stock smic doesn't handle much, but if you want to stay w/ it, you can always upgrade to the s15 smic or the arc smic (both are much thicker than stock smic). Those are suppose to handle up to around 250whp.

I ran an s15 one for autox's & some track days w/ a t3/t4 @ 10-12psi without much issue, of course, I don't push it 100% @ track days.

I switched over to the PSM hmic setup, removed the a/c & water temps dropped considerably while response improved quite a bit according to my butt dyno ;). Gotta love shorter piping.

[PoorMans180SX]

I would totally run the PSM setup, but I like my pop-ups to work, and wouldn't mind keeping A/C on my daily.

Looks like I'll have to do some modifying.

Greddy setup doesn't include the $110 hotpipe.

Only reason I don't really want to spend the money on this is because the SR isn't staying for long.

[e1_griego]

I have bull**** cxracing fmic kit. Way-too-big core, and some ****ty piping.

$200 shipped on ebay (maybe as high as $230).

Seems to work ok? I know it's far from great, but I was unemployed when the SR went in ;).

Back-to-back pulls on the dyno didn't lose any power so seems like it doesn't heatsoak too bad?

[Jesse]

I was quite disappointed when I figured out I would have to modify my headlights to use the psm hmic. I'm the one that wrote the write up on how to make them go up and down manually on zilvia... since then it doesn't seem like many people are interested in it anymore?

I typically just leave my lights up now.

[PoorMans180SX]

Ahhhh okay, yeah I saw that. Might be worth it if I was just using it as a track car. Nice writeup btw.

[logr]

There is a thread on here somewhere that talks about a high mount IC. It is cheap, effective and keeps the factory lights. I have done 4 240's that way and I like it better than any other. It is by far the easiest way, imo. I believe I put a pic of one car I did in the thread.

[WorkInProgressK]

Worst to worst you can always mod the rad to be slighty offseted to the rear. Might only work with electric fans.

[PoorMans180SX]

Yeah, I think I'm going to get the PSM kit and push the rad back some, then make up some simple ducting.

I plan on using e-fans anyway.