Car loses alignment, caused by ball joints?

[modulation]

I got my car aligned 1 year ago. They replaced a bad tie-rod end (too much play they said) got it aligned no problem, and it drove fine for 7 months or so. Car never hit anything, but then one day it started pulling the the left, and the steering wheel wouldn't be straight when I drove.

I then put Koni's and springs on it and got it aligned again at a different shop. They aligned it. When they aligned it they said the SAE was off the right side as well as the caster. They were able to get the toe/camber in spec, but the caster and SAE on the right side were of by like .6 and .5 degrees. They said it was caused by the tie-rod end that I had replaced on the previous alignment (which they didn't know about) being bad. I'm guessing that's just what the machine said so it's what they told me. They don't do front-end work besides alignments and told me to goto a shop. Sure enough 4 weeks later it's pulling to the left and the steering wheel is off.

Could this be caused by a bad ball-joint on that side? I don't hear any clunking or anything typical from a bad ball joint.

If not a bad ball-joint what else? Could it be a bad power steering rack (I haven't seen any leaks, but my boots have been bad for a while.)? I'd rather spend $200 or so worth of parts (that need to be replaced due to wear and tear anyways) and try to fix it then pay a shop $200 worth of labor.

Any ideas?

[Def]

Usually you get vibration at medium speeds with bad balljoints. The steering wheel being off to one side sounds like a different problem. You have any adjustable links on your car? They loosened up?

[modulation]

Usually you get vibration at medium speeds with bad balljoints. The steering wheel being off to one side sounds like a different problem. You have any adjustable links on your car? They loosened up?

Nothing adjustable besides the tie-rod ends. Tension rods, lca and everything else is stock except the koni's and springs.
I'm pretty sure the rack hasn't moved but I'll check that tomorrow.

I forgot to mention when I went in for the 2nd alignment, they said my left front toe was .5" (yes 1/2 inch) and it was really the only thing that was way out of spec. (The rest was marginally out of spec, and because I had lowered the car between alignments.) It seems my front right toe changes in-between alignments.

[AceInHole]

It's easy enough to check for a loose ball joint (or wheel bearing). Jack the front end up and give the wheel a good violent shake (I highly recommend having jackstands under the car during this). If it knocks, you've got a problem somewhere. With all the solid mounts and adjustable bits on my car, I pretty much do it every time I drive it (which equates to a per-race schedule).

Are the tension rod bushings stock? If so, I'd suspect those. Otherwise, check the strut mounts. If the bolts aren't completely torqued, there may be some movement that might not get noticed in a shake test.

[modulation]

It's easy enough to check for a loose ball joint (or wheel bearing). Jack the front end up and give the wheel a good violent shake (I highly recommend having jackstands under the car during this). If it knocks, you've got a problem somewhere. With all the solid mounts and adjustable bits on my car, I pretty much do it every time I drive it (which equates to a per-race schedule).

Are the tension rod bushings stock? If so, I'd suspect those. Otherwise, check the strut mounts. If the bolts aren't completely torqued, there may be some movement that might not get noticed in a shake test.

The tension rods are stock, but I pressed in energy suspension bushings.
Will check the strut mounts, I'll also make sure the upper stock angled spring plate hasn't moved.

[modulation]

Well this sucks.
I bought the car 3 years ago and have never hit anything, but the passenger side tie-rod end is bent. Why didn't' the first alignment shop tell me that?

Also that same side (passenger) side LCA nut was loose (took no torque to get it off,) I think it works itself loose overtime. I tightened it back up again.

I also found that the right stock upper spring perch had moved, I jerked it back as best I could.

I went for a drive and the car is back in alignment. This is not good.

Are the front lower control arms bolts strech-bolts?

[Matt93SE]

I've never had a problem with the LCA bolts coming loose. torque spec is full bang on the impact wrench and all is well.

tie rods are easy to bend, and easier to bend worse if they're already bent... It's possible there was a small bend in it when you got the car, and then it got worse after a few dozen potholes.

[Def]

Stock S13 tie rod ends are super weak. If you've had a problem bending them I'd just go ahead and get S14 inners and outers. They're ~15% larger in diameter, ~32% stronger than S13 inners.

You need both the S14 outers and inners due to the larger inner thread etc. They'll bolt right up.

[Bubba]

Z32 tie-rods bolt up also, right?
I think I remembered installing a set on a friends S14 a cpl summers back...

[modulation]

I went to the junkyard and got some replacement bolts/nuts incased I messed up my threads some how.
I'm almost thinking the bottom LCA bolts are interference bolts.
They nut screws on really easily except for the last 4-5 threads, I'm not talking about them screwing easily on to the tapered part of the thread and then stopping, the tapered part is like the first 4-5 threads, and there are still 10 left or so after that.

That specific FLCA that the bolt was loose on, I've probably taken the bolt off and put it back on numerous times to grease the FLCA suspension bushings.

I'm also worried that since the tie-rod end on that side is tweaked maybe the front lower control arm is messed up too. I should probably just replace that FLCA and tie rod end. I'd hate to think what would happen if that bolt fell out.

[modulation]

Prevailing force nuts is another possibility.

[Bubba]

I can't say I would ever replace an inner or outer separately from one another. I tend to do them like brakes. If I do one pad, I'm definitely going to change the other.
I can't convince myself to trust a 2 piece part when one of them is damaged. Maybe I'm the only one. LoL

[modulation]

The nut I took off the front lower control arm bolt wasn't the same as the nut I replaced it with from the junkyard. After looking at the tension rod nuts that secure the tension rod to the front lower control arm, they are both different.

I think I messed up along time ago and put a tension rod nut on the front lower control arm bolt. Yes the thread is the same, but the nut for the tension rods probably isn't a prevaling force nut like the front lower control arm nut should be.

This lack of attention on my part caused me great headache. I've hit myself a few times as punishment.

[modulation]

I can't say I would ever replace an inner or outer separately from one another. I tend to do them like brakes. If I do one pad, I'm definitely going to change the other.
I can't convince myself to trust a 2 piece part when one of them is damaged. Maybe I'm the only one. LoL

Yeah you have a good point, since I need to get alignment done after replacing one of them I might as well replace both inner and outer tie-rods on both sides and have more piece of mind about at least that part of the car.

[Bubba]

I suggest rack bushings also if you plan on doing both sets. Might as well eliminate as many issues as possible, esp. since they are fairly cheap.

[CodyAce]

Z32 tie-rods bolt up also, right?
I think I remembered installing a set on a friends S14 a cpl summers back...

Z32/Z33/S14 all interchange, however there is a solid inch differnet in overall length between them all.

[modulation]

I suggest rack bushings also if you plan on doing both sets. Might as well eliminate as many issues as possible, esp. since they are fairly cheap.

By rack bushings do you just mean polyurethane steering rack bushings?
I have the entire Energy Suspension kit on my car except for 2 bushings in the rear spindles that I couldn't get to with a press.

What is the consensus on using Ployurethane bushings for the front control arms? I've seen some discussion that they bind too often and/o don't allow for enough axis of movement?

[a_ahmed]

lol i have aluminum rack bushings and the rack moves... yeah it sucks... been procrastinating to install replacement bushings (im guessing the aluminum somehow got worn out???).. as im waiting on that custom manual rack im conjuring up with that UK company (oh btw it will be 880USD... no longer 1300USD or whatever it was gona be before...)

it did kick ass when it didnt move but meh it got progressively worse.. and worse and worse and now it just moves anytime i hit something.... sucks balls... hah... thats why on my track video if some of u noticed my wheel was slightly crooked... go figure... maybe thas why under heavy braking the steering was dancing ha ha ha... sigh..

[Matt93SE]

put a thin- 1/8" or so- strip or rubber between the bracket and the aluminum bushing. that will take up the slop and should stop it from moving.

[Def]

Or just get urethane bushings. I imagine they'll allow less movement than some rubber stuff inbetween the rack and a loose aluminum bushing. :D

[a_ahmed]

Thats the plan until i get the bushingless rack in my hands i got some energy bushings just been procrastinating urgh..

http://avatar.identi.ca/1765-96-20090311100848.jpeg

The one time when you want polyurethane to seize and bind lol...