Sweet forum!

[Epstein]

Hey guys. This is Epstein from FreshAlloy and a dozen other forums that I never post on. I aspire to track my car at Sebring one of these days (it's about 50 mins away), but until then I'm working out the bugs on the street. I've talked with Veilside180sx a lot about a Koni setup, which is what brought me here. My car is an S13 coupe with a built SR20 and a twin-scroll 3071r. I'm an electrical engineer at M-Audio and also work for RS Enthalpy in my spare time. I'm drawn to any forum where people are talking about real tech. Looks like there's some good stuff here already!

[2Fass240us]

Wercome!

Gimme your turbo.

[veilside180sx]

Welcome Chris, good to see you here.=D

[McCoy]

Chris, good to see you over here. Welcome to the site...

[Your Mom]

oooo twin scroll and 3071.

[Epstein]

Hey your mom, nice wheels! I've got the same ones but different widths. I'll post some pics one day.

Thanks for the nice replies guys.

[turtl631]

Hey Epstein,
I think I dealt with you a little when I had a turbo KA with an Enthalpy tune.

Got any dynos for the TS 3071R? How do you like it? It's hard to get a real feel for how the TS setups work on FA, so much arguing and fighting.

[Epstein]

I love my twin-scroll setup.

Here's a plot from my old setup. That's 8.8cr Wiseco's, stock head, SLA's, HKS step3 264/272, greddy IM, and Haltech E8. I was getting some good valve float starting just up over 7k due to spring pressure. I later found this out as I shattered 2 rockers. The plot shows runs at 8psi, 14.5psi, and 18.5psi on 93 octane. It was an SAE day on the Dynojet248c.

http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/9314/twinscrollmr6.jpg

One thing to notice is that even though it's over 420whp, all the hp lines are roughly parallel. That tells me that there's more in it if the boost was increased. Not that I need any more HP than that. Also, you can see that I'm hitting 8psi at 3750rpms on the dyno. This is closer to 3300rpms on the street. I've logged boost vs rpms on my Defi setup and I get a full 1 bar at a hair under 3900rpms in 4th. That's comparable to the 2871r .64ar car that I built a while back.

After I destroyed the head, I changed the setup. It now has JWT C1's, Supertech duals, ST valves, Mazworx chamber, and a ROM tuned ECU. Before the Mazworx stuff but after the ROM tune and C1's, it felt noticeably faster and a hell of a lot smoother. It'll be April before I can schedule any dyno time, though.

There's a lot of cool stuff I've done to the car that I'd love to show you guys.

[SoSideways]

Welcome Chris!

I'm still struggling in the financial department, so no ROM tune for me anytime soon :(

[veilside180sx]

Chris post your pics up and whole setup, I've been itching to see it as well.=)

The dyno's look great, I'd be jazzed if I can break 400 on pump gas.

[Epstein]

I'll just start posting pics of random stuff. I used to be good at documenting things, but on this build I've forgotten a lot of things.

I built this cluster my self with all Defi parts, fiberglass, a stock housing, and blood/sweat/tears. The idea is that I hate having 9000 gauges tucked in every hole. That's a stock gas gauge in there with "low" light. Most of the idiot lights still work. There are 2 LEDs at the top on either side of the 80mm tach which are 3-color. Green for turn signals and both blue for highbeams. I can call up water temp, oil temp, oil pressure, fuel pressure, and vehicle speed on those 2 displays on the right. I don't run an EGT, which is all that I'm missing.
http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/7711/clusterlightmx9.jpg

Neato combustion chamber from Mazworx. Those are the Supertech stock sized valves. I got the exhaust valves with 6mm stems (and matching guides) for reduced mass. That plus 106 lb springs means I'll probably never have valve float ever. Mazworx is right down the road in Orlando, so having them do my headwork was a no-brainer
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/3428/img1081xu1.jpg

I got a deal on some Brembos so I did that conversion. They're awesome with the Z32 17/16" master. Those are G35 front Brembo calipers and rotors. The rears are STi calipers on Z32 rear disks with internal e-brake set up. In the front I went with 17x8.5 +30 RPF-1's because they are listed to clear these Brembos. I run spacers up there to fill up the wheel well, though. A quick test fit says I can run a 17x9 +35 with a 15mm spacer and clear these calipers. That was also back when I had Pilot Sport Cups on there. Sweet tires for the track (I hear), but absolutely suck on the street. Spun them constantly in 3rd on 18psi, even up at 90mph.
http://img487.imageshack.us/img487/5537/frontbremborq8.jpg
http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/6664/rearbremboan5.jpg

[WilloW]

Welcome! That's ^^ nice.

[SoSideways]

Man that cluster is sweet.

I've always wanted to do that, but wanted to keep the turn signal lights, the high beam lights, and the fuel level gauge. Your setup is pretty much perfect. I love it!!

[Epstein]

Pic of the whole car. No aero except the stock dohc lip. Tires changed to 225/255 RT-615's.
http://img507.imageshack.us/img507/7779/img1250sdu3.jpg

A shot of the pipes I had finished at a local shop. Trick little bend coming off the compressor outlet to dodge the strut tower and lines. Inlet pipe has the right amount of bends and length to prevent mafs turbulence. Greddy Type-RS recirculated and a -10AN for crankcase venting. The vent setup was the newest part. The rear block vent goes directly into the back of the valve cover (low, underneath the built-in separator). The front port comes down to the catch can and back to the intake. I had to weld the front -10AN fitting on behind where the stock T goes to avoid hitting the turbo. It uses the built-in separator. I also put my PCV back on and shaved the letters of the valve cover.
http://img507.imageshack.us/img507/1823/img1248sad2.jpg

Wide shot of my handywork
http://img507.imageshack.us/img507/9043/img1246szm5.jpg

[Def]

Nice setup. How did you mount your catchcan up there? I'm doing about the same setup(but with -8 lines I already had and a 3/8" NPT to -8 fitting screwed into the stock valve cover T location). I just haven't found a good way to hold the catchcan up there.

I just blocked off the vent from the rear of the block - flared it to 37 deg and put a -12 AN tube nut and sleeve on it, then used a -12 AN plug. Could always vent from it in the future if I needed to, and this seemed a lightweight way to block it off... Plus I love me some anodized aluminum.

[SoSideways]

We had a discussion within a certain forum's certain forum :) , and we basically concluded that, this diagram would probably be the best way to run a catch can setup to prevent the PCV valve from sticking due to oil vapor getting in it:

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h311/da_russian_one/Catchcansetup.jpg

If you want to prevent oil from getting back into the intake pipe, ergo getting into the compressor/intercooler piping, then this diagram would be the way to go:

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h311/da_russian_one/DualCatchcansetup.jpg

Images courtesy of member named Fourdoor from evolutionm.net


But yeah, after reviewing the path of the crank case exhaust gases from the S14 FSM, those two diagrams seem to provide the best catch can setup to catch the oils.

However, I don't think those are the best ways to set up the catch cans to help extract the pressure from the crankcase during WOT, as the PCV valve isn't open during that time?

Anyway, we're turning your welcome thread into a technical debate already lol

Oh, just 1 more quick question... didn't Enthalpy's test conclude that the Koyo rads have too high of a fin count, and thus not as efficient as C&R or Griffin radiators?

[Epstein]

Nice setup. How did you mount your catchcan up there? I'm doing about the same setup(but with -8 lines I already had and a 3/8" NPT to -8 fitting screwed into the stock valve cover T location). I just haven't found a good way to hold the catchcan up there.

I just blocked off the vent from the rear of the block - flared it to 37 deg and put a -12 AN tube nut and sleeve on it, then used a -12 AN plug. Could always vent from it in the future if I needed to, and this seemed a lightweight way to block it off... Plus I love me some anodized aluminum.

It's just ziptied there. I removed AC so the line that runs there is gone. The ziptie just runs between some random holes there, pinching the catch can into the corner of the rad and support. The same method was used to hold the battery down. haha

[Epstein]

About the catch can stuff... I haven't looked under the cover of a 4G64 before, but our SR valvecovers basically have built-in catch cans. One per side. So what's coming out of the PCV has already been through a filter and several baffles. On the opposite side there is another series of baffles and drains that lead to the stock "T" fitting. Running a catch can between there and the intake pipe is just extra insurance. I installed that 3/8th NPT plug on top as a site. It's bone dry in there.

The way I dumped the rear block port into the back of the valve cover just mimics the way that the S14 and S15 are configured. Now the gasses can make it to the head from both ends of the crankcase (rear port and front cover). That black separator box that everyone deletes is the equivalent of the baffles in the valve cover.

As far as drawing crankcase gasses out during WOT when the PCV is closed, that's what the intake port is for. There isn't really any vacuum inside the intake pipe (at least there shouldn't be), but it creates vacuum via the venturi effect. Down the road, I may just replace the intake pipe line with a line to an exhaust checkvalve system. Those things create so much vacuum that you might as well cap off the PCV all together.

[Def]

I'm not running my PCV valve right now, and haven't really seen any ill effects from it. I too want to go to an exhaust evac setup, but I want to see how much oil vapor gets past the catchcan before I go that route.

With the stock setup into the intake pipe I was getting very little oil in the pipes. Just enough to form enough to "see" (small puddle) right at the start of the T28 inlet pipe after maybe 1-2k miles(hard miles, this is not a daily driver).

[2Fass240us]

Unas preguntas para tu:
1) What material are the braided lines from the crankcase to your catch can?
2) Are those catch cans internally baffled? Meaning, if vapors come in, can they immediately get sucked out before they have a chance to hit fluid in the bottom and release it?
3) Do you still have the template for the instrument cluster face? I will go a similar route in the future, but probably use an aftermarket fuel level gauge with an aftermarket sender in the fuel cell.
4) Why no wider on the front rubber? Clearance?

Everything looks really good. I would say I'm surprised that I hadn't seen your setup before, but I don't spend much time on FA anymore.

-Andy

[Epstein]

Unas preguntas para tu:
1) What material are the braided lines from the crankcase to your catch can?
2) Are those catch cans internally baffled? Meaning, if vapors come in, can they immediately get sucked out before they have a chance to hit fluid in the bottom and release it?
3) Do you still have the template for the instrument cluster face? I will go a similar route in the future, but probably use an aftermarket fuel level gauge with an aftermarket sender in the fuel cell.
4) Why no wider on the front rubber? Clearance?

Everything looks really good. I would say I'm surprised that I hadn't seen your setup before, but I don't spend much time on FA anymore.

-Andy

1) those are cheapy Jeg's nomex lines and black -10 fittings. The rear fitting that goes to the crankcase is an Earl's 120* fitting that cost as much as 3 of the Jegs ones.
2) the separators in the valve cover are baffled. I'll post a pic of that soon. The external one I'm running isn't baffled yet. It should be pretty simple to throw some sheet metal or mesh in there.
3) for the cluster, I just took the OEM black plastic plate, fiberglassed it flat and started cutting by eyeballing. The tach is dead center and the rest are forced to fit in the remaining space.
4) I have everything measured out and ready for 245/40's up front, but F-ing Falken doesn't make them in an RT-615. I was going to shell out the $$$ for RE-01R's (more sizes), but didn't want to get stuck with 255 rears if it wasn't going to be enough traction. It's not enough traction. I've been looking at putting my rears up front and getting some 17x10's with 275/40's out back. That's a lot of meat for the street setup.

I've been working on it almost constantly for over a year. This is the first time I've posted about my setup at length. There's a lot left to go.

[e1_griego]

Or pics up some 17x9 +22 rpf1s. That's what your_mom (brian) is running, and that convinced me to buy them too :P Much to his chagrin.

I know rs2's come in 245/40, but not 255/40. My rt-615s will also need replacement sometime soon, and I'm not sure what to replace them with, either.

Awesome, awesome, awesome build :)

Alex

[Def]

Kumho MXs are pretty good, and they have 245/40 255/40 and 275/40-17s.

I noticed no real difference in rear traction going from a 275 to a 235 rear tire, both would spin through 2nd on the same surfaces and grip on others like grooved concrete.

I'm going 235/40 and 255/40 RT-615 for my next setup - I have 9" front and 10" rear. 275/40 sidewalls feel like crap.

[e1_griego]

^ Yeah, that's what brian has, and that's what I'm leaning towards as well. I'm running 17x9.5 rpf1s in the back with 255/40 currently, 225/45 up front.

I have yet to drive in rain though lol.

Alex

[Def]

They're not that bad in the rain as long as you're not trying to go 100 mph in a downpour. MXs are better in the rain though... I was pwning people left and right with some MXs when it started coming down at Road Atlanta even with jacked up brake bias(stock MC + full Z32 brake setup = rear lock way before the fronts lock... **** is scary).


I think some 240 guys get too fixated on wide tires for how much the cars weigh... I know I did when I first bought tires...

[Epstein]

17x9 +22 RPF-1's won't clear Brembo's. Atleast without spacers. I had considered running an 18" RPF-1 in the rear with a tire height around 25.5-26". That would keep the sidewall about the same height as the 255/40's while letting me get the longer contact patch of a larger diameter tire. I dunno.

I looked at MX's briefly. I just happened to be next to a place that sold Azenis at the right time. The place had internet prices and could have them by lunchtime the next day. I was sold. As far as the rain, I never drive in it, which takes a lot of planning in Florida. The car saw rain once in the past 2 years and lives inside.

[turtl631]

18" tires are actually easier to find in short, wide sizes. After 255s in 17" tires, everything is super tall with big floppy Camarostang sidewalls.

Very cool setup Epstein, thanks for posting so much about it. I'd love to see dynos once you get on there again. TS 3071R is what my car would have if I could afford it. The gauge cluster is really nice too, cool work. I think at that point I'd just get an AiM unit, but I can see wanting to retain a more stock look/fitment.

[Your Mom]

the fuel pressure sensor is kinda cool.

[Def]

18" tires are actually easier to find in short, wide sizes. After 255s in 17" tires, everything is super tall with big floppy Camarostang sidewalls.

Very cool setup Epstein, thanks for posting so much about it. I'd love to see dynos once you get on there again. TS 3071R is what my car would have if I could afford it. The gauge cluster is really nice too, cool work. I think at that point I'd just get an AiM unit, but I can see wanting to retain a more stock look/fitment.

You can't afford spherical bearings for your Z32 upright, but you're getting an AiM dash? lollerskates

[turtl631]

what my car would have if I could afford it.


^Key part of my post Def :D

[Epstein]

the fuel pressure sensor is kinda cool.

Ahh you saw that. $60 adapter not necessary. Just bought an NPT sensor and got out the correct tap. I've got at least 5 threads all the way around and has never leaked a drop. Even when I accidentally hit over 80psi fuel pressure from a nasty overboost.

[Epstein]

Here's my office. I like it simple (see comment about the cluster). There's a pair of R32 GT-R seats, a Nismo wheel, and a DSG knob. I'm considering upgrading to some Sparco Evo's (the original ones, since I'm 5'9" 170), but the GT-R seats are really nice. All of my gauges are inside the cluster. In the flip up radio pocket I've got a Gizzmo MS-IBC for boost control. I did a lot of research, and my choice has not let me down. I love it! I have a Moates O-meter (running from an LC-1) wedged in the pocket if I need to check AFR's. It usually lives in the glove box. The glove box also holds the Defi controller and a Greddy MSS for the Altima radiator fans. So with the glove box closed and the radio lid up, there's no clutter at all. That Alpine is about 10 years old and runs 2 speakers in the doors.
http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/2756/img1251oq2.jpg

Here's my latest little toy. Since I have a Tial 44mm gate, it's loud as all hell on boost. Every cop in my county can hear me breaking the law when I roll into the throttle. The dump was right behind the rack. I had my local shop (same guy that did my IC/intake pipes) do a wastegate muffler. He'd never heard of one, so I bought the parts and mocked it up for him. One extra 90* bend (1.75" pipe), one 1.75" Vibrant flex section, and one Thrush glasspack in 1.75" (body is 12x3.5"). The difference is like night and day. It's only marginally louder than my brother's 2871r .64 internal gate car, and we both have Apexi WS Noir (quiet) exhausts. It's been likened to Vtec, where the tone changes once I reach target boost. It's tucked up there so no one can see my mullet-style red pipe!
http://img186.imageshack.us/img186/5592/img1254md5.jpg

[McCoy]

Just how I like interiors... clean and simple :)

I want your DSG shift knob, I've emailed them a few times and have yet to get a response. My coworker has one in his STI and I love the feel/weight of it.

[turtl631]

Nice work with the WG dump, it always annoyed me how loud mine was on my KA-T. It sounded badass, but that **** gets old on the track.

I've never heard of Gizzmo boost controllers, but from some quick googling they look pretty nice.

[Epstein]

I've never heard of Gizzmo boost controllers, but from some quick googling they look pretty nice.

They're distributed by Apexi. My requirements were that it had multiple boost settings and closed loop boost control. You'd be suprised how hard it is to find one like that. It uses the same solenoid as the Greddy/Apexi/Haltech stuff, too. The only down side is that you have to run the boost reference up to the box.

They stopped making the DSG knob. What I was told was that they only made one run of them. By the time I got around to ordering one all the 10x1.25 threaded ones were gone. So I ordered the 12x1.25 knob and stuck a Helicoil in it to make it 10x1.25, haha. I like it more than the Nismo GT Pro rubber that I used to have, but I've considered replacing it with a JDM Z32 knob.

[turtl631]

I have the JDM Z32 knob. I guess it's cool because it matches my steering wheel, but it's the same size/shape as stock. At least it's leather and doesn't get uncomfortably hot or cold.

[turtl631]

How do you like the Hyper single? I might pick up a used one even though I won't really have much power for a long time, if ever. I like really low inertia drivetrain components though.

[Epstein]

The hyper singe is sweet. I can slip it slowly to get up my driveway and it has no problem holding the power in that dyno graph. The inertia is so low because they use a 225mm diameter setup instead of a stock 240mm sized one. If you need something with even less, I think Tilton makes a multi-disk 7.5" diameter clutch. Jason Rhoades had one.

I'm having a few issues driving it recently because of the low inertia. I haven't driven the car much in the past few months and my other car is a Scion tC with, seriously, a 90 lb clutch/flywheel combo and an extremely poor e-throttle. I have to reteach my left foot how to act correctly! haha. But really, I can still do 2nd gear starts with it.

-edit- I forgot to mention that the pedal effort is like a stock vehicle. It's about like my old WRX. Softer than my brother's Nismo unit, and way softer than some of the Spec stuff I've driven.

[turtl631]

Any issues with clutch slaves dying? Do you use the the stock TOB?

[Epstein]

Same clutch slave as I've had for 4 years. It's even a cheap NAPA part. The pedal pressure/effort isn't really high so I wouldn't expect to wear them out prematurely. I have considered upgrading to a Nismo slave to make it even more street friendly.

[turtl631]

Well, I just sent payment for it so hopefully it'll be as awesome as everyone says it is. It ended up costing less than I was going to spend on a separate ACT flywheel and Exedy Stage 2, so I get a baller clutch and spend less money. The seller also said he can get a new disc for $230 shipped, so for perhaps $300 or so I could have it resurfaced and outfitted with a new disc if it wears out down the line.

Sadly, I did not send payment for a TS 3071R setup or Mazworx motor, so it's gonna be behind a T28-equipped stock SR instead. My bank account balance seems to have one fewer 0 in it before the decimal point than I'd like.

[Def]

Yea, I hear the Hyper Single is nice. I just hope the little bit more torque I'm likely to add doesn't overwhelm my ACT HD PP and stock SR disk I'm using... I feel it's right on the border.