View Full Version : If you were designing rear s13 shocks with 28 series
a_ahmed
01-01-2010, 08:47 AM
Would you go with 2812 long body shocks? Curious what you people would go with. Step above the 86xx series obviously... if im not mistaken Jrho used 28 series but cant remember what he went with front or rear... would 2812 in the rear and say 2817 sound like a good idea. I think he used 2817 in the front.
Not sure what lengths though... anyone remember who built them for him?
Are 2812 like 500 each?
veilside180sx
01-01-2010, 09:11 AM
Pro Parts put together Jason's for him.
a_ahmed
01-11-2010, 05:39 AM
Does anyone have any dynos of 28 series shocks?
How do they compare to double adjustable motons?
How do they compare to the 8611s we all have?
They are mono tube inverted correct? They are aluminum bodied?
Some are steel, some are aluminum. You can have the damping changed to about anything you want, and I think most people running them have them valved to their specs given the price of the shocks.
IMO, they're cool shocks, but the price tag on these things, plus the work to fit them in the car.... it's a bit much.
I don't think any of us are really to the point in our driving where we are really held back by 8611's, which are a pretty solid, affordable strut that works.
McCoy
01-11-2010, 11:14 AM
I don't think any of us are really to the point in our driving where we are really held back by 8611's, which are a pretty solid, affordable strut that works.
If I felt anything needed to be changed it would probably be easier and more cost effective to order a new set of 86XX with custom valving verses going to a 28XX setup.
FWIW, I'm completly happy with my 8610's out back and don't forsee touching these (maybe spring rates at most) for a long long time.
a_ahmed
01-11-2010, 11:45 AM
I like my 8611s but just the fact that i wana go with those spindles means ih ave to get new housings again and i still havent gotten tender springs and spacers. I guess i can get some tenders and spacers used for cheaper but new its costy.
Going to the non z32 shock mount type means to change the compression i have to take it out no? As the compression adjuster is on the bottom... and going to the eye type vs fork type shock mount means the bushing would be in place... so screw that.. pain in the ass to adjust.
McCoy
01-11-2010, 12:33 PM
I guess I'd be more concerned about the front than rear for roll center... and if anything I think the S14 rear subframe will take care of most of our issues out back, just my thought on it.
a_ahmed
01-11-2010, 01:10 PM
if there was a way to make the compression adjuster external or on top with the rebound that'd be great but i dont know of any... moton double adjustables come with an external tank and all adjusters handy... not sure on 28s and their adjustment if its top/bottom (i doubt it)...
I find it a big time con to not be able to adjust compression quickly on the go. As is with the z32 fork where its accessible but needs to have wheel and shock mount taken off... its a pain in the ass... I bought the double adjustable shocks to play around with both adjustments based on road condition/track... not just set it and let go... so its kinda pissing me off if i go to the non z32 type how much more of a hassle it'll be even more.
Other than that I love my 8611s honestly, they're great... People always ask me what coilovers i have heh... :)
You're really thinking of going with some $1500+/corner shocks just to have easier access to the adjusters? Really?
That's a bit ridiculous IMO...
a_ahmed
01-11-2010, 09:57 PM
ill be spending more money on retrofitting my koni 8611s into new housings and still lacking tender springs and spacers... and get a ****tier deal to even have less ability to adjust on the go. That's not practical. Like I said as is with the z32 mount its a pain in the ass to adjust on the go. With the stock s13 eye style mount its even more of a hassle as the bottom adjustment will have the eye mount in the way. So that means I'd have to take it out of the housing to adjust... that's really lame in our application imo. Maybe you like the hassle but I don't like the hassle.
So its either enjoy the hassle and spend more money now on the rear shocks or look for an alternate and sell my current z32 shock mount rear s13 koni 8611 setup.
I love the koni 8611s but this is not practical for day to day adjustments. What's the point of having double adjustable shocks when the adjuster is a pain the ass to access.
Imagine im on a track day and i have to take the shock off to adjust it. Sorry but i dont want that sort of hassle especially when some sessions go for 20-40minutes and then switch groups and theres only so many sessions.
If I just had koni 8610s fine, but i got the 8611s so i can fiddle with adjustments track to track and even when driving to track. Kind of beats the point.
You shouldn't adjust shock damping... there is a right level for your spring rates and corner weights and that's it.
You do know really expensive dampers on cars like F1 cars etc. are not adjustable for that very reason. They pick a spring rate and that's the damper that matches it. Adjustable shocks just make it easier to get close to that "right value," but you shouldn't be Fing around with them constantly.
I think the easy solution is not to get those "bling-bling" spindles - but maybe that's a little too easy.
ecugrad
01-12-2010, 05:21 AM
Adjustable shocks just make it easier to get close to that "right value," but you shouldn't be Fing around with them constantly.
Its not the cool way of thinking but that is the damn truth. There is one "right" setting and a BUNCH of wrong ones.
Matt93SE
01-12-2010, 07:57 AM
I dunno... I like my car a LOT better when I run smooth tracks (like TWS and MSR Cresson) at a higher damping rate than I do a shorty bumpy track like MSR Houston.
basically I have two settings for them. the car is a LOT faster at TWS with the damping turned up (better turn in response and overall snappiness), but MSR is too bumpy to run like that and I wind up flatspotting tires all the time since it's real bumpy going into the corners. I have to run a very soft setting to keep the rubber on the ground. (need downforce!!!)
McCoy
01-12-2010, 08:57 AM
^^^ Yeah, but I found with the Koni's that once you find the settings that work for the car's setup you don't need to modify them for most conditions.
The best way to describe it is that I can drive to/from the track with the Koni's set for the track day and have no real issues over the bumpy/rough roads between me and the track besides getting a bit more noise inside the cabin. When I was on the silkroad coilovers (with about 40% less spring rates), there was no way I could do this without loosing a kidney on the way up or possible putting my head through the roof on some of the bigger bumps.
I still like having the adjustment, but keep them to a minimum for the most part. I still think it's ludicrous to spend an extra $3000 to just get the adjusters in a better location, but that's me.
SoSideways
01-12-2010, 12:32 PM
I find it a big time con to not be able to adjust compression quickly on the go. As is with the z32 fork where its accessible but needs to have wheel and shock mount taken off... its a pain in the ass... I bought the double adjustable shocks to play around with both adjustments based on road condition/track... not just set it and let go... so its kinda pissing me off if i go to the non z32 type how much more of a hassle it'll be even more.
You know that quote in your sig from Def?
He was making fun of the drifters with their coilovers and "adjustments".
Now you sound exactly like them, except you're not a "drift fanboi", you're a "grip fanboi".
I dunno... I like my car a LOT better when I run smooth tracks (like TWS and MSR Cresson) at a higher damping rate than I do a shorty bumpy track like MSR Houston.
basically I have two settings for them. the car is a LOT faster at TWS with the damping turned up (better turn in response and overall snappiness), but MSR is too bumpy to run like that and I wind up flatspotting tires all the time since it's real bumpy going into the corners. I have to run a very soft setting to keep the rubber on the ground. (need downforce!!!)
You're running KTS right? That probably is why, because the valving on those are still nowhere near as digressive as the Koni 86xx dampers.
Matt93SE
01-12-2010, 01:41 PM
Yup, KTS. I'm aware of their limitations. Also they run a pretty durn stiff spring so that compounds the situation. I've thought about going to another setup, but that's even more money I don't NEED to spend to get the car out on the track. Right now I'm trying to finish up the little safety stuff so that I can go to the club race skool in June or July. It's goign to take $2-3000 more than what I've spent so far to make that happen. (most of that's tires & maintenance, but it needs to be done before I go racing)
vBulletin® v3.7.4, Copyright ©2000-2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.