brackets to use Z32 calipers with 350Z rotors [Archive]

McCoy

01-15-2008, 02:00 PM

Curious if anyone has used these brackets on a track driven car? I'm seriously considering this and and wanted to get some additional input from anyone that has used them in the past. I have a funny feeling that I'll need all the extra mass in the rotors that I can get this year :)

Mysr20.com just started a special for $99 shipped for the brackets, what perfect timing.

http://www.mysr20.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=Z33bracket

2Fass240us

01-15-2008, 05:07 PM

This place (http://www.jskinnovations.com/240sxbrakeadapter.htm) has them too, in machined Alloy 6061 with Helicoil SS inserts.

SPL used to make them too, but it looks like they don't anymore.

McCoy

01-15-2008, 07:07 PM

Ahhh, I was looking for the JSK brackets last week on Ebay... since that's where I've seen them at before :).

I might just give the one's I listed above a shot.

turtl631

01-16-2008, 09:39 AM

I have a set of aluminum/helicoil insert ones I got on eBay that I decided not to use. I'll let you have them for $85 shipped, email me if you want them (rrozyck@gmail.com). FYI, the cheapest source of Z33 rotors I found was rockauto.com.

McCoy

01-16-2008, 10:11 AM

Are these the JSK one's that Andy mentioned above?

turtl631

01-16-2008, 11:36 AM

I'll check when I get home. I think they said R1 Racing on them or something like that.

McCoy

01-17-2008, 09:43 AM

Ross, were you able to get pictures of these last night?

Anyone else have a good place to purchase 350Z rotors. My good source (NAPA) has 1 in there whole US system. Rockauto wants about $190 shipped. mysr20 is about $175 shipped. I know there has to be a cheaper source out there... especially when I was only spending $55 for the Z32 rotors.

turtl631

01-17-2008, 08:58 PM

It was $150 shipped to me from Rockauto. Where do you live?

Here are the brackets. They also came with hardware, I don't have pics of that.
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a160/turtl631/CIMG1327.jpg

2Fass240us

01-18-2008, 07:54 AM

"Wurks," eh? So a German-like name for a Japanese part? Sounds like an issue of nationality-confusion! :)

McCoy

02-29-2008, 12:33 PM

I found someone selling the Z33 (350Z) track edition rotors for $120 shipped on Ebay, I paid for them and there on the way.

I'm thinking I'll need these this year, with running the 275 RA-1's and a few upgrades under the hood that I'm planning for April - May time frame, I don't think the Z32 setup will last to long.

Ross, I'll be sending you funds shortly for the adapter brackets :).

AceInHole

02-29-2008, 01:17 PM

I'm wondering if it might be worth it for me to run the adapters, just to run the aluminum hat rotors made for 350z's. Supposedly they're lighter than stock, but it's unsprung vs rotating weight.

e1_griego

02-29-2008, 02:51 PM

^ Would you run those with your q45 calipers? Or did you switch to z32 brakes?

Alex

McCoy

02-29-2008, 04:15 PM

I'm wondering if it might be worth it for me to run the adapters, just to run the aluminum hat rotors made for 350z's. Supposedly they're lighter than stock, but it's unsprung vs rotating weight.
I saw some thread on Zilvia or FA with the weights on the 350Z 2-piece rotors -v- the OEM 350Z rotors... something like 12lbs -vs- 20lbs. I think it was a bathroom scale though, so take these #'s with a grain of salt.

turtl631

02-29-2008, 04:57 PM

Sweet, I like having funds.

AceInHole

03-03-2008, 06:53 AM

^ Would you run those with your q45 calipers? Or did you switch to z32 brakes?

Alex

I switched to z32 aluminum 30mm's a while back. Still have a set of Q brakes laying around, though.

e1_griego

03-04-2008, 08:46 AM

Ah, ok.

Alex

McCoy

03-11-2008, 09:31 PM

Not to shabby for $120 shipped :)

http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/959/medium/350z_rotor_01.jpg

http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/959/medium/350z_rotor_02.jpg

Your Mom

03-11-2008, 09:49 PM

so for roughly 230 i can do that conversion. hmmmmm, i think when i need new rotors i'll might just grab some of these. interested to so how they do on track thou.

McCoy

03-12-2008, 09:42 AM

I paid 120 for the rotors and 85 for the bracket. These should work great for track days, I don't see how they would not... well, I guess depending on how the brake bias is affected. With the S13 BMC, and running hawk blues F/R the brake bias has been more towards the rears, so in theory these should help even that out some :)

If I can keep the overall temps down, then rotor and pad life should be extended... thus making the extra cost for the rotors worth it. At least that's what I'm telling myself.

Time for a pair of MaddMatt's special pads :D

SoSideways

03-12-2008, 09:54 AM

Do you have any pics of the final product yet? :)

I want to see if these brackets will make the caliper look "droopy" and retarded lol

Yes, I am so anal about how the car will look that even something stupid like that will prevent me from buying those brackets haha

McCoy

03-12-2008, 10:11 AM

Ross's brackets haven't show up yet.

As for how they look... not to concerned. It's how they hold up on track that I'm worried about. If I was concerned with looks I probably wouldn't be driving a 240 ;)

SoSideways

03-12-2008, 10:22 AM

Well, judging from the brackets' design, it looks like all it does is pushes the calipers out further, without moving it down at all, like some of the other brackets I've seen out there that places all 4 holes on the same plane.

And hey, the 240 looks good, alright? :) It also has a quite decent coefficient of drag, which makes them a good candidate for driving fast :)

Your Mom

03-12-2008, 02:09 PM

theres a guy on nwn that has done it. it looks a bit weird big rotor small caliper. also the whole pad won't hit all of the rotor, so it leaves a lip on the pad where it doesn't touch the rotor. he had good reviews on the street.

McCoy

03-12-2008, 09:37 PM

OK, I test fit the drivers side tonight just for giggles.

Here's what I got new in the last 2 days... 350Z track rotors and some adapter brackets from Ross.
http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/959/medium/350z_brakes_01.jpg

A comparison of the 300zx rotor to the 350Z rotor
http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/959/medium/350z_brakes_02.jpg

And just for reference, here is the 300zx rotor to the stock S13 rotor.
http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/959/medium/Z32_front_install_06.jpg

The bracket installed...
http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/959/medium/350z_brakes_03.jpg

rotors and calipers on.
http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/959/medium/350z_brakes_04.jpg

Wheels on, plenty of clearance to the inner wheel and spokes on the MB's.
http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/959/medium/350z_brakes_05.jpg

What I've heard from others, but didn't fully understand until just now. After looking at the bracket, it really can't come in any more without having clearance issues on the bracket.
http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/959/medium/350z_brakes_06.jpg

how much of the rotor your not using. Not a major issue.
http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/959/medium/350z_brakes_07.jpg

And lastly what the 300zx brakes look like under the wheels... sooo small
http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/959/medium/350z_brakes_08.jpg

Overall, not a perfect design... but for the price I'm not going to complain. As long as it serves it's purpose I'll be happy with this setup.

McCoy

03-13-2008, 09:47 AM

I just found this picture today.
http://www.prmsg.org/albums/album43/cracked_rotor.sized.jpg

This is what I did to my rotors 2 years ago after upgrading to 225/45/15 hoosiers for track days on the sentra. This was the 2nd morning into a BMW driving school and we were working on braking later and harder since I had bigger/stickier tires. The car dynoed at 250whp with a GTiR T28. they were an 11.75" 2-piece Wilwood setup with dynalite calipers. They didn't last long :). This is kind of why I wanted to get alittle more rotor on the car, the 240 will be making more power and have a heck of alot more tire...

Your Mom

03-13-2008, 10:52 PM

man that looks so much better with the big rotor. just a bit weird with the small caliper. waiting for your 1st track day for reviews. i think the first one i'll hit isn't until april.

McCoy

03-14-2008, 08:39 AM

man that looks so much better with the big rotor. just a bit weird with the small caliper. waiting for your 1st track day for reviews. i think the first one i'll hit isn't until april.
Compared to the 11.75" rotors and itty-bitty dynalite calipers, these calipers seem big to me :).

As for track testing, I want to show that the 350z rotors are worth it, or if I'm just blowing smoke up my own a**. I'm thinking that if I have no major issues with the car then I'll run the first 2 session with the Z32 rotors and take rotor temps after a cool down lap and one coming hot off the track. Then switch over to the 350Z rotors and do the same thing alittle later in the day. Of course It's still March and for all I know it could be raining on this day... so well see what happens I guess.

McCoy

03-24-2008, 12:22 PM

The CR6 pads showed up last Friday, so I'll be throwing on the Z33 rotors and new pads tonight to bed them in and get ready for the alignment session tomorrow morning.

The temps for friday seem to only be a high of 42F, so I won't be doing any tests on rotor temps till it warms up some more and there is no chance of rain... like this Friday.

BigOdom1

03-24-2008, 11:52 PM

anyone tried the brackets for a mustang cobra rotor bracket? supposedly rotors are cheaper, bigger, and easier to find than 350z and if bigger is better unless the pad is only using part of the rotor im interested to know opinions.

a_ahmed

03-25-2008, 04:50 AM

^If I'm not mistaken they are also much heavier...

Def

03-25-2008, 07:19 PM

I think they're about the same diameter, probably about the same weight(within a pound or two).

SoSideways

03-26-2008, 09:09 AM

IIRC the Cobra 13" rotors are only 28mm thick.

BTW, Def, I saw your name like, 26 times for 2 hours the other day... on a plane lol I was sat on 26E, and the side of the plane was D-E-F lol

floodo1

05-04-2008, 09:08 PM

I heard from Kuah at SPL that you lose some wheel clearnace, something like 4mm, and this pic seems to confirm it:
http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/959/medium/350z_brakes_03.jpg

can you estimate if 4mm really is all you lose or if its more? Right now i'm pretty damn close to my wheels with a 10mm spacer already.
I would gain some clearance because the bigger rotor moves the caliper radially out which gives helps since my spokes angle out as you move away from center.

thanks in advance

McCoy

05-05-2008, 08:56 AM

can you estimate if 4mm really is all you lose or if its more? Right now i'm pretty damn close to my wheels with a 10mm spacer already.
I would gain some clearance because the bigger rotor moves the caliper radially out which gives helps since my spokes angle out as you move away from center.

thanks in advance
I looked at a few more pictures (that I haven't posted yet) and it only looks like 2-3mm at the most that the caliper is pushed out, but I'll try to take a wheel off tonight and get a better look at it.

floodo1

09-28-2008, 09:32 PM

its supposed to be "about 4mm", but it would be nice if someone actually measured :)

2Fass240us

06-09-2009, 01:34 PM

I know I'm digging this up, but I am working on a bracket to use the 350Z track rotor with Wilwood calipers. I was originally looking at the base model rotor, but the track one is preferable mainly because of its thickness.

Base: 12.58" x 1.1"
Track: 12.76" x 1.18"

The extra 0.08" makes it possible to reliably use 1.25" Wilwood calipers, which is nice because the 1.1" ones come in fewer piston size combinations. That, and you can swap out for the 6-piston ones if you want to ball out of control.

I will let you guys know when I get closer on the bracket.

-Andy

McCoy

06-09-2009, 04:23 PM

Good job, Andy... this will be a nice option for the value brake shoppers out there ;).

Matt93SE

06-09-2009, 04:28 PM

If the offsets are the same with the 350 track rotors as they were on everything else Nissan, then the wilwoods *should* fit with just using a 'dogbone' for a bracket and that's it.

They did with all of the stuff I've made before.
custom 13" rotor w/ "nissan offset" + wilwood superlite & dynalite
12.6" x 1.1 (04-08 Maxima & base 350Z rotor) + superlite
11.65" x1.25" R32 GT-r Rotor + dynalite

All of those just used a piece of 1/2" 6061alu plate with holes drilled in proper locations, then I cut the excess material out and called it a day. I think some of them might have had 1 or 2 washers behind them, but it was very little spacing required.

http://blehmco.com/pics/car/brakes/24.jpg

2Fass240us

06-09-2009, 05:52 PM

I believe the offset is the same. I can use the dogbone style as long as the rotor is >12.5". I have 11.75" 2-piece Wilwood rotors on my S13 meow, and the bracket looks like this:
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o20/2Fass240us/Project_240/Brakes/BracketV2_002.jpg

I am doing a 12.9" 2-piece kit for my friend and his is the dogbone style:
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o20/2Fass240us/Project_240/MattyBrakes/Brackets_003.jpg

Do you still have the bracket for the 12.6" Maxima rotors? This was the "base model" option I was working on above. I was envisioning something similar to the first bracket above, but a little larger, and thought about incorporating a mounting point for a brake duct nozzle.

jmauld

06-09-2009, 06:55 PM

It's sad that you're probably going to finish my brake kit before I finish installing my engine. Got an ETA yet?

sr20goofus

06-09-2009, 07:34 PM

Matt93SE

06-09-2009, 09:09 PM

Do you still have the bracket for the 12.6" Maxima rotors? This was the "base model" option I was working on above. I was envisioning something similar to the first bracket above, but a little larger, and thought about incorporating a mounting point for a brake duct nozzle.

They're designed for the earlier model Maximas, so the radius offset is different by about 3mm.
It's the 'kidney bean' style similar to what you posted above.

2Fass240us

06-09-2009, 10:08 PM

Why not use steel brackets, and just tap the bracket itself?

it would be a small enough hunk of steel that the added weight shouldnt make a difference, and strong enough to never worry about it failing.Because the clinch nut is easier* and can be replaced.

*I am good enough with a tap that it wouldn't be too hard, but it's much easier to just press a clinch nut in.

It's sad that you're probably going to finish my brake kit before I finish installing my engine. Got an ETA yet?Depends on how the 350Z track rotor looks with the bracket I have. It could be as soon as I can get my hands on a rotor.

-Andy

No Rotr

06-15-2009, 09:26 AM

So not to thread jack, but I have a pair of 350z track rotors laying around if anyone wants to give me some money for them. I also have the adapters, but they are aluminum and don't have helicoils in them.

SoSideways

06-15-2009, 10:01 AM

How much would you want the rotors for?

PM me?

2Fass240us

06-15-2009, 11:27 AM

I picked up the correct rotor from Napa today. I should have an idea about bracket design late this week, if not a final design.

I *think* you have to run 17" wheels to accomodate the rotor size though. I will know more once I get the bracket designed and have it all bolted up.

Def

06-15-2009, 03:19 PM

You will need 17s with a rotor that big.

2Fass240us

06-15-2009, 06:22 PM

You will need 17s with a rotor that big.OK, that's what I thought.

Matt93SE

06-15-2009, 09:00 PM

Just FYI, here's a 16" with the 11.65" R32 rotors....
http://blehmco.com/pics/car/brakes/21.jpg
eek

My 2 pc 11.65" discs should be getting to the house about Wednesday... pics to follow when I get 'em on the car. :)

McCoy

06-15-2009, 09:04 PM

I think I got you beat, Matt.

11.75" wilwood brakes under 15" wheels... I think the clearance was at 1 to 2mm to the wheels.
http://www.prmsg.org/albums/album43/fastbrake_setup_02.sized.jpg

Matt93SE

06-15-2009, 09:09 PM

Dayum!
Mine are pretty close, but I don't think that close. I had 2-3mm between them, but still not much. After a 1/2 mile drive down a dusty road, I had scratches between the top of the caliper and the inside of the wheels.

What bolt pattern is that setup?
(Wonder if Fastbrakes has a 5 lug hat to fit these rotors... If yours are 5 lug, they would be very close..)

The hats on my Maxima are from the fastbrakes 12.2" kit with a 13" rotor on them, but they were way too big to use with the original 11.65" rotor. I'm having a set of hats custom made with a 6 13/16" bolt circle on them... I think I paid $85 ea for the hats from Brian... these are going to cost me about $350 after they're anodized...

McCoy

06-15-2009, 09:44 PM

Matt, that was on my sentra, bolt pattern was 4x100. I know all about the scratches between the calipers and wheels... I had small grooves from all the debri that got stuck in there.

Matt93SE

06-15-2009, 10:02 PM

The fun one is when rubber marbles kicked up from the track get mashed in there and melt onto the caliper.

Another cool one was almost the same thing.. A friend of mine put some brake ducts on his race car but didn't cover the opening with any mesh. At the end of the race, he had to pull the rotors off and use needle nose pliers and a dental pick to pick all of the chunks of rubber out of the rotor vents. DOH!

McCoy

06-15-2009, 10:25 PM

I know we're getting off topic, but I can't resist this one. My friend/dentist hit a duck at over 120mph on the front straight of SRP... let's just say he had to go to the car wash afterwards to spray off the remains of the duck. :eek:

jmauld

06-16-2009, 04:25 AM

Be careful with the calipers sitting that close to the rims. I've seen a guy cut his rim in half by a caliper that was loose. His brakes were still working and he had no idea that the caliper was sawing against the rim until the rim broke into two pieces on track.

SoSideways

06-16-2009, 06:32 AM

Yeah well, Lewis Hamilton sawed his forged magnesium F1 version of the RPF1 in half and deflated his tire during his qualifying run last year for one of the races, sending him into the tire wall.

And they have about 1mm of clearance, if that, between brakes and wheels :)

McCoy

06-16-2009, 07:39 AM

Well that setup was so 3 years ago. I had alot of people telling me the wheel would flex enough to make contact... I ran hoosiers on track for 2 years with no issues.

I guess lucky for me my caliper never loosened up.

2Fass240us

06-29-2009, 08:04 PM

Nevermind the caliper being upside-down...

http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o20/2Fass240us/Project_240/Brakes/BBK2Test_001.jpg
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o20/2Fass240us/Project_240/Brakes/BBK2Test_002.jpg
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o20/2Fass240us/Project_240/Brakes/BBK2Test_003.jpg

Matt93SE

06-29-2009, 08:27 PM

It's weird seeing cotter pins on a superlite... Then again, every set of pads I've gotten, I've had to grind off the tab for the cotter pins so I can fit them in with the bridge bolt setup on my forged superlites.

I'll get pics of the latest setup on my car tomorrow.

2Fass240us

06-30-2009, 03:54 AM

I bought that superlite about a year ago, BNIB with a set of new pads, for $45 shipped on eGay. I was hoping to find a matching one, but ended up not being able to and buying FBSL's instead. If nothing else, $45 isn't too bad for a "mock-up" caliper.

Next step is to make an AutoCAD drawing, have one made from metal, then test-fit.

AceInHole

06-30-2009, 05:24 AM

Slightly on-topic: has anyone done a matching rotor upgrade for the rear? I've been having huge issues with front lock-up for the past year, and need to find a solution. I've pretty much determined the problem is due to my tire stagger. Much wider and taller rears vs thinner and shorter fronts give my fronts a lever advantage on braking than the rears, in addition to the difference in tire surface contact. I'm thinking that running a larger rear disc should help solve some of the problem (equalizing the torque advantage of the smaller diameter wheels up front).

Matt93SE

06-30-2009, 07:21 AM

Yeah, $45 is pretty good. They usually go for about $129 new or so IIRC. I bought my FSLs for $139 a few years ago. really can't beat the price for the performance.
Pads are pretty cheap too. racing compound pads are 1/2 the price of the same thing in a Z32 fittment. yeesh.

Ace,
what pads are you running front and rear? I'd try a higher friction pad in the rear before you go to re-engineering the whole system.
But yeah.. I put some Z31 rotors in the back of my Maxima several years ago. made a HUGE difference.. They're the same thickness and offset, just 1" larger. you can mix/match 89-90 mounting brackets with 91-94 calipers (or vice versa, I can't remember now) and they simply bolt on over the Z31 rotors. voila! cheap easy upgrade for them. But before you need anything that much larger in the rear, you gotta look at what's up front and maybe try to dial it back a bit if you have too much up front.

a_ahmed

06-30-2009, 07:36 AM

They see me brakin',
They hatin',
I'm racin' while they tryin' to outbreak me dirty,

LOL, nice setup.

AceInHole

06-30-2009, 09:34 AM

Ace,
what pads are you running front and rear? I'd try a higher friction pad in the rear before you go to re-engineering the whole system.
But yeah.. I put some Z31 rotors in the back of my Maxima several years ago. made a HUGE difference.. They're the same thickness and offset, just 1" larger. you can mix/match 89-90 mounting brackets with 91-94 calipers (or vice versa, I can't remember now) and they simply bolt on over the Z31 rotors. voila! cheap easy upgrade for them. But before you need anything that much larger in the rear, you gotta look at what's up front and maybe try to dial it back a bit if you have too much up front.

I'm running Hawk HP+ front and rear. I'm probably going to try running HPS up front with HP+ in the rear next, but I'm still looking to increase rear braking a bunch (2-pot z32 calipers back there currently) and dial it in with a proportioning valve.

Matt93SE

06-30-2009, 11:31 AM

If it were me, I'd stick a set of HT-10 in the back and then install a prop valve to dial them back a bit.

McCoy

06-30-2009, 11:51 AM

The HT-10's need alot of heat in them to be useful... I'd say some Hawk Blues might be a better choice out back.

2Fass240us

06-30-2009, 11:53 AM

Z32 rears are another option. The piston size (IIRC) goes up a little and the effective radius is larger. The downside is that you have to source e-brake cables and Z32 e-brake assemblies. The Z31 stuff sounds like an easier sell, but I don't know much about it.

Ace: I'm with Matt about the compounds. I would tell you to give me your information and I'll plug it into my spreadsheet, but Hawk (and everyone BUT Wilwood) does not publish or even hint at coefficients of friction so it's almost an exercise in futility.

The main advantage of the setup I'm working on is that you can use an OTS rotor. Neither the Supra or 3000GT rotors are ideal for Nissans with Wilwoods based on hole pattern and/or thickness.

Def

06-30-2009, 05:37 PM

Hawk Blues would not be good in autox(too cold, rotor wear out the whaazoo).

I'd try out a Z31 MC since it has a higher split point. Will give you a little more pressure back there.

2Fass240us

06-30-2009, 06:37 PM

I'd try out a Z31 MC since it has a higher split point. Will give you a little more pressure back there.I happen to have 2-3 sitting around, waiting on you guys to buy them. :D Gaycob has one too.

Matt93SE

06-30-2009, 07:54 PM

The HT-10's need alot of heat in them to be useful... I'd say some Hawk Blues might be a better choice out back.

Seemed fine to me at the track last weekend even on the first lap... :shrug:

McCoy

06-30-2009, 07:59 PM

^^^ I was just going off the temp range posted by hawk. Blues 100-1000F, HT-10's 250F-1400F IIRC.

Anymore I don't even take off the Blues, so they get some street driving and to/from the track time. I'm on 3 years on the rear rotors and 2 years on the fronts, FWIW. As long as it's not to cold or wet they do ok.

AceInHole

07-01-2009, 06:27 AM

I've currently got an S14 auto BMC (15/16"). There was a post somewhere (zilvia?) that implied the Z31 had a lower split point for the rear and was better for stock rear brakes? Is there any concrete info on the differences?

2Fass240us

07-01-2009, 08:10 AM

Jacob posted the Z31 split point on FA (IIRC) some time ago, and linked me to the information. I am not at home now though.

AceInHole

07-01-2009, 08:49 AM

Just found the split info:

Stock non abs s13 MC: 40 (kg/cm^2) x 0.4 split point
USDM auto non-abs mc: 30 x .4
90 z32(I have the euro fsm, different?): 35 x 0.4
94 z32: 25 x 0.4
88 z31 non turbo: 30 x 0.4
85 z31 non turbo: 40 x 0.4

Stock non abs s13 MC: 7/8
USDM auto non-abs MC: 15/16
90 z32(I have the euro fsm, different?): 17/16
94 z32: 1 inch
88 z31 non turbo: 15/16
85 z31 non turbo: 15/16

If you've got an '85 BMC I might give it a shot. My other plan is to drill out the stock proportioning valve or take it out entirely on my 15/16 S14 BMC, and replace it with an aftermarket adjustable prop valve.

2Fass240us

07-01-2009, 09:34 AM

Mine may be non-turbo. The Nabco and Tokico models both show "BM44" on the side.

SoSideways

07-01-2009, 09:41 AM

Don't worry Andy, I'm working on the funds...

Been hot as hell in FL lately, so the AC has been on more, which translated to an electric bill that's like $100 more than last month's bill, so the moneys is doing towards that for now...

2Fass240us

07-01-2009, 12:10 PM

Matt93SE

07-01-2009, 01:15 PM

Dammit... Leave for a few hours and forgot to post this. I looked it all up so I'm posting it anyway..
From the FSM...
'88 300ZX:
15/16" MC
Sprit point (yes, there's Engrish in the FSM!) 427psi
Reducing ratio 0.4

'84 300ZX:
both are 15/16"
Sprit point: turbo 498psi. non-turbo 569psi.
Ratio: 0.4 for both.

Specs are same for '85 model as well.

91-94 240SX:
W/O ABS: 7/8"
W/ ABS: 15/16"
569psi x 0.4 on both.

96 240SX:
MT W/O ABS: 7/8"
AT or all W/ ABS: 15/16"
284psi x 0.4 on both.

2Fass240us

07-01-2009, 01:19 PM

Awesome info, thanks! We just need model numbers to correspond with the model year/type. Because I went off of the "BM44" when I looked for them at the JY.

Matt93SE

07-01-2009, 01:35 PM

That's not in the FSM.
I looked at the pics on Rockauto's website and tried to find the numbers, but the images are just too small to read them.

2Fass240us

07-01-2009, 01:49 PM

Since this thread has good viewership, let me do some product research...

Wilwood caliper ears require a 7/16" fastener to be used. Obviously with our cars being Japanese, the fasteners are all metric. So as I see it, there are 3 options:
Supply a sleeve similar to Wilwood kits. This reduces the spindle hole to accept a 7/16" fastener. Drill the Wilwood caliper ears out to accept the same diameter fastner as is used to bolt the OE caliper bracket to the spindle, which really doesn't remove much material at all. I could do this if the calipers came through me, or have the end user do it. Use OE-sized fasteners for the spindle:bracket, and supply Grade 8, 7/16" fasteners for the caliper:bracket. I would likely supply a cheap socket in case the user does not have access to SAE tools.

Thoughts?

McCoy

07-01-2009, 02:26 PM

I'd probably be for option #2... just for the simplicity of not having to use a reducer and to keep the number of SAE fasteners to a minimum on the car.

Matt93SE

07-01-2009, 03:19 PM

I drilled my wilwoods to 12mm holes. Very easy to drill since it's aluminum, but whatever alloy they use is very brittle compared to the 6061 I'm used to working with.

You just have to be careful to keep them perpendicular to the mating surface. I suggest using a drill press and bolt the caliper to some angle or something using the hole you're not drilling. clamp that in the vise so the caliper stays fixed in place while you're drilling.

2Fass240us

07-27-2009, 08:41 AM

I have the bracket mocked up, but not prototyped in metal yet. I now have some capacity to get it in .dwg format, and will get it to the metal shop as soon as that's complete.

2Fass240us

07-27-2009, 07:15 PM

It doesn't look like either the Rotora on mysr20.com or the Raybestos on RockAuto is directional...have you guys found this to be the case? If yes, which ones ARE directional and how much more did you pay for them? I dunno if I want to pay for Brembos just go get the directional feature.

Matt93SE

07-28-2009, 11:18 AM

There's no reason to go with directional rotors on our cars.... not unless you just happen to come across some that are for the same price as a non-directional.

2Fass240us

07-29-2009, 08:20 AM

There's no reason to go with directional rotors on our cars.... not unless you just happen to come across some that are for the same price as a non-directional.I think it is one more tool in the brake cooling arsenal, but there are other far more effective ones.

DuckyD

05-14-2010, 09:05 PM

Geno

05-16-2010, 04:25 AM

I am totally jacking an old thread.
I am looking to get 350Z rotors and need adapters.

Anyone see any fault with these brackets?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/240SX-S13-S14-BRAKE-BRACKET-ADAPTER-12-75-300ZX-Z32-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2eab1f21c4QQitemZ20043 9439812QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso ries

It uses the same pic as the link provided in Page#1 of this thread from 2 years ago.
http://www.mysr20.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=Z33bracket

Which rotors are you after? I've got a set of powerslot 350z track rotors and those brackets you linked (well mine look the same). The entire setup has exactly 3 miles on it (distance from my workshop to my folks house) as I've been in Hong Kong since January and haven't driven my car. $200 for the whole setup if you're interested.

2Fass240us

05-16-2010, 09:49 AM

Anyone see any fault with these brackets?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/240SX-S13-S14-BRAKE-BRACKET-ADAPTER-12-75-300ZX-Z32-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2eab1f21c4QQitemZ20043 9439812QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso riesYes...ridiculous pad overhang. Ask Monty.